Do-it-yourself Russian stove: drawings and order (+ Photo)

Materials

Brick

The masonry of the Russian stove is made from. The brick must be well fired and of the highest quality - dense, smooth. A burnt brick (with a dark interior if broken) is absolutely unusable. Hollow brick is also not suitable: heat will not spread well throughout the body of the stove, its interior will overheat and the whole stove will soon begin to fall apart.

You need to select the bricks for the hearth especially carefully: they must be even, smooth, and exactly the same height. In the old days, stove makers selected hearth bricks from purchased lots and stored them separately. Nowadays, the underside can be ironed after laying with a grinder with a bowl-shaped circle. In theory, this will not make the oven worse, but there is no experimental data.

The lining of the stove and the top row of the stove bench can be made of face bricks and lime mortar. Then the floors will never fail, and finishing the stove will not cause difficulties - masonry on clay with widened seams (see

below) although heat-resistant, it is not very strong and smooth, and the plaster and tiles do not hold up well on it

Solution

Not quite normal for a Russian stove; What is important here is the combination of heat resistance, high heat capacity and TKR equal to brick. The composition of the solution is as follows:

Carefully sifted the fattest clay you can find - 3 parts by volume.
Sifted and calcined river sand – 3-5 parts by volume.
Pure water – 1 part by volume.

The solution should also be very fatty - thick, viscous. His condition is checked with two boards; A ball of fresh solution the size of a tennis ball is squeezed between them. A thin solution will crack immediately; average at about 1/3 compression, and good at half compression. A solution that is too soft and fluid is also not suitable; sand must be added to it, but not more than 2:1 relative to clay.

Good clay for laying stoves was once a serious problem. Now the structure of the Russian stove is being simplified: ready-made dry mixtures for laying stoves and, separately, fatty clay are on sale.

When drying, the greasy solution often cracks. In this case, the cracks are covered with a medium or thin clay mortar, but in no case with lime, gypsum or cement.

Traditional and modern Russian stoves

One of the characteristics by which Russian stoves are classified is size. Structures of 1500×2300 mm are considered large, and structures of 1500×1750 mm are considered small. There are also stoves built according to individual projects; their sizes can be any. Depending on the features of the device, traditional and modern ones are distinguished. They differ in the design of the oven. In the first, the lower part is not heated, in the second, heated channels are installed. Stoves can vary in shape, finish, location, number and functionality of additional elements.

Design diagram of a Russian stove with flooding

The world is changing, people's needs are changing, and accordingly, new furnace designs and additional opportunities for implementing complex technical solutions are appearing. So, recently models with the following improvements have become popular:

Floodbox and slab. The hob is built into the stove structure and is a modernized hearth. The Russian stove with heating allows you to cook traditional national dishes, dry mushrooms, berries, and fruits.
Russian stove with fireplace. The back wall of the stove is led through a partition into the next room, and a fireplace is equipped. A very convenient option for lovers of open fire. The dimensions of the stove itself change slightly, but there is no need for an additional foundation or a chimney system, and warmth and comfort are guaranteed.
Tramp and rude. Initially, a large bed designed for three people was installed in the Russian stove. Today, stoves are rarely built in sizes that allow you to make a large stove bench. Instead, they put in an attached trestle bed.
Side heating. Very convenient for heating adjacent rooms.
Bottom heating. The improved design allows heating large areas.

Types of Russian stoves

Small Russian stove
When selecting a project, pay attention to the classification of heating devices.

Furnaces differ in several parameters:

Size. An economy option with dimensions up to 1500x1700 mm is most often built in a bathhouse or summer kitchen. Medium-sized ones with sides from 1500 to 1700 mm are used in small houses and in the kitchen. The composition may include a stove, fireplace, ovens. Large forms from 1.7 m are used for heating large houses or as kitchens in public catering. The buildings are equipped with full-sized beds, baking cabinets and cooking surfaces.
Location. There are free-standing or combined models with fireplaces, hobs, barbecue areas, etc.
Device. The traditional look has unheated elements at the bottom. Modern structures are heated throughout their entire height.
Firebox method. Black and gray are now used extremely rarely. Modern designs are heated “on white”.

Before construction, carefully consider the options for using the device, which will save money on construction and choose the optimal location of the stove in the house.

How to make a Russian stove

Specifics of the masonry of a modern Russian stove
Installation of required appliances for the furnace

Russian stove with heating According to the time of its creation, the black Russian stove is considered the oldest. It was also called kurna. On the guardianship, as the peculiar elevation was called, a vault with thick walls was erected. Below it is a crucible (the space located under the arch). The food was placed, then firewood was thrown through a small mouth, in front of which there was a pole resembling a table.

More and more often, stoves are found in private homes. They are used for heating, cooking and just for beauty.

From this stove, smoke poured first into the hut, and then through the window it found its way out. To permanently eliminate this drawback, they came up with an over-pipe (smoke collected there) and a smoke pipe. But even such a modernized stove did not heat the floor. As a result, a new furnace with flooding was invented. It is similar to the classic one, but the stove is placed in the hearth and there is a firebox, and the firebox is separate. From a Russian stove with flooding, chimneys run along several walls or along one wall. Usually they melted the flood, but in severe frosts they used a crucible to keep it warmer.

How to build Russian stoves with your own hands, video

During the construction of the Russian stove, bricks and fastening mortar were used. Most often, red ceramic bricks were used, obtained by firing ordinary bricks. After firing, the brick became more durable. Sometimes the masonry of a Russian stove was made from adobe (unbaked brick). This was done mainly by poor peasants. In rare cases, one could find a Russian stove made of adobe in the royal mansions, and those stoves that were found were necessarily lined with tiles.

The Russian stove was loved not only because it gave off heat for a long time. The Russian stove with a stove bench served as an excellent place to relax. The warmth of the Russian stove had a positive effect on the entire human body. Therefore, Russian people never complained about a cold. A Russian bathhouse and the warmth of a Russian stove tempered a person.

Cooking on a Russian stove. The design of the Russian stove made it possible to cook on it not only porridge, but also bake bread, pies, dry mushrooms and berries.

Firing in a Russian kiln. Pottery was fired in a Russian kiln. We did this according to the following scheme. First, firewood was laid, and the dishes intended for firing were placed on top of the firewood (or on previously laid bricks). The stove was heated until the temperature in the stove reached 900 degrees Celsius. After that, they stopped heating and waited until the stove cooled down (this only happened the next day). Not only dishes, but also toys were fired in a Russian stove. Moreover, the toys were burned, as a rule, during a regular fire.

It’s interesting that... In a very interesting way, the peasants determined the temperature of the Russian stove. For this we used a small piece of paper. They placed it in the oven and waited for the paper to char. If this happened immediately, then the temperature in the Russian oven is above 300 degrees Celsius, if with a delay of 5 seconds, then the oven temperature is 270 degrees, 15 seconds - 250 degrees, 30 seconds - 230 degrees, 1 minute - 200 degrees, 5 min – 180 degrees, 10 min – 150 degrees. If the piece of paper is not charred, then the temperature in the Russian oven is less than 150 degrees.

The Russian stove was an indispensable assistant. The life of Russian people was closely connected with this unique structure.

The first row of the furnace is laid out on a foundation made of wild stone or brick, held together with cement mortar. Before you start laying the bricks of the first row, lay sheets of roofing felt or roofing felt, which serve as waterproofing.

For the first row, it is advisable to use reheated bricks, which are more resistant to moisture.

To ensure correct dressing of the seams in the next row, three three-four bricks (1, a) are laid at all corners of the first row. One of the three-fours and the brick adjacent to it are beveled at an angle so that they fit tightly to each other (1, b).

Starting from the second row, lay out the walls of the opening. To avoid matching seams, four three-fours (2) are used on the front wall of the edging in the third row.

The fourth row is completely laid out from whole brick. The corners of two bricks that should be located at the entrance to the oven are cut off so that they can become supports, or the so-called heels of the future arch.

Wooden formwork is installed in the opening of the podechka and, having laid out the arch, they begin laying the fifth row. To prevent the seams of two adjacent rows from matching, place three three-fours at the corners (as in the first row). The peculiarity of this row is that 20 bricks of the side walls are chopped at an angle to turn them into heels - the supports of the future arch of the oven.

In the sixth row, the side walls of the pavement are laid out one brick thick, and the back and front walls are two bricks thick. Then, between the inner walls of the oven, formwork with a semicircular top is inserted, corresponding to the shape of the future arch of the oven. The formwork is made in advance in such a way that after use it can be easily disassembled into separate parts and then removed through the under-bowl, that is, the opening leading into the under-furnace. Collapsible formwork consists of two side frames (a), on the pins (b) of which circles rest - two boards with rounded upper ribs (c). To ensure that the frames fit snugly against the walls of the oven, one or two spacers (a) are inserted between them. A flooring of narrow boards is placed on top of the circles, fastened together with two or three straps made of some flexible material.

After installing the formwork, they begin laying the vault. Previously, brick factories produced special wedge-shaped bricks, from which it was possible to lay out a vault that had not only thin seams and a smooth surface, but also high strength. Such bricks can be obtained by chipping and then chipping off their edges with a pick. However, only moderately fired bricks with a uniform structure and without cracks are suitable for such processing. Often such material cannot be found, so the vault is laid out from whole ordinary bricks. In this case, the lower ridges (ribs) of the bricks placed on the edge must be in close contact with each other, and equal gaps are made between the upper ribs, which are filled with masonry mortar. The strength of such a vault is greatly increased if suitable sized brick fragments are pressed into the gaps between the bricks.

Having finished laying the arch of the oven, lay the next, seventh, row of brickwork. In order for the dressing to be correct, four three-four bricks are used at each corner. Following the seventh, the eighth row is placed. It consists entirely of solid brick. In the same row, lay out a platform for the cold stove (a).

Starting from the ninth row, lay out the walls of the stove. To make the correct bandaging of the seams, three-quarter and half bricks are used at the corners. The tenth row is laid out entirely from whole brick. Then dry sand is poured between the walls of the furnace to the top. The eleventh row of bricks completely covers the cold stove and backfill.

In the twelfth row a pole is laid out under the stoves.

All bricks are held together with masonry mortar, except for those used to build the floor.

The limiting bricks are placed on the edge in the furnace masonry. Hearth bricks are laid without mortar, and the cracks between them are filled with sand. During the firing of the furnace, sand is mixed with wood ash and fills the gaps between the bricks with a dense mass. In the left corner of the hearth, a small recess is made for storing hot coals - a furnace, or porsok. The laid underneath is carefully leveled, polishing it with half or a quarter of red brick.

Starting from the thirteenth row, the walls of the crucible (cooking chamber) and the hearth are laid. At the same time, an arc of a strip of metal is installed between the hearth and the furnace, corresponding to the shape and size of the future mouth of the furnace. Several holes are pre-drilled in it at a certain distance from each other. Annealed steel wire is inserted into them, which is then fixed in the furnace masonry.

Laying out the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows, they continue to build up the walls of the hearth and crucible.

In the seventeenth row, eight bricks, specially chipped and hewn, are placed in the walls of the furnace. These bricks, called heels, will serve as stops when laying the roof of the furnace. After such preliminary preparation, wooden formwork is lowered into the furnace. Before starting to lay the vault, an arch of half bricks is placed above the mouth.

The masonry of the furnace vault is no different from the masonry of the opechka vault.

When the vault is completed, the eighteenth row of bricks is laid. At the edges of the pole window, two heels are fixed, on which a small arch will rest, which is placed using wooden formwork.

Having laid out the arch, they begin the nineteenth and then the twentieth rows of bricks. Dry sand mixed with fragments of brick, glass and crushed stone is poured into the space formed by the walls of the furnace and the roof. An open opening is left above the pole for the re-pipe.

The twenty-first row of bricks tightly closes the furnace along with the backfill. The twenty-second row following it makes this overlap more dense and durable. They call it the overlap. It is on the roof that the Russian stove rests.

In the next, twenty-third, row, they continue to build up the walls of the shield or cross-tubes, in which the choke for the samovar (a) is strengthened. An opening is made on the right side of the pipe for cleaning soot, covering it with half a brick placed on the edge (b). When, after numerous firings of the furnace, soot accumulates on a special platform, the brick is knocked out and cleaned. After cleaning, the brick is moistened in water, coated with masonry mortar and the hole is closed with it until the next cleaning. By looking at the indentation that remains on the surface of the oven, you can easily and quickly find the cleaning location at any time. Sometimes special metal plugs are inserted instead of bricks.

When laying the twenty-fourth, twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth rows, the overpipe is gradually blocked, leaving only two holes: one for the samovar chimney, the other for the view (b).

Laying out the next two rows, that is, the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth, in the opening opposite the view, they strengthen the so-called half-door, that is, a narrow door through which the view (a) is closed and opened.

In the twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows, the walls of the overtube continue to be built up. At the same time, do not forget to follow the rules for dressing sutures.

In the thirty-first row, an additional row of three bricks is laid near one of the walls, so that smoke from the choke passes through the remaining narrow Trench into the chimney. After this, the overpipe in the thirty-second row is covered with a continuous layer of whole bricks. Only on the right side in the over-pipe is a hole left, above which the valve is attached. Starting from the thirty-third row, only one chimney is built up, each row of which should consist of six bricks.

Directly at the ceiling, cutting is carried out with an overlap of bricks. Cutting makes it possible to remove the wooden parts of the ceiling from the pipe, while at the same time tightly closing the ceiling opening. In addition, the cutting undoubtedly decorates the oven. Therefore, stove makers often use this technique not only when laying pipes. The cutting is done during the laying of the furnace in the places where the furnace transitions to the furnace, but most often in the upper part of the shield. However, the use of cutting is not always the desire of the stove maker for decoration.

Due to cutting, the surface of the furnace increases, which means the heat transfer increases.

This principle is used in modern central heating radiators. This confirms the old truth that for a good master, beauty and benefit are inseparable from each other.

Features of the device and operating principle of the Russian stove

The brick box is not placed on the floor, but raised above its level by 80-100 cm. This ensures ease of use of the oven for cooking. The chamber under the stove, intended for storing household utensils, is called the oven. It is covered with boards or equipped with a brick vault and covered with a layer of sand, on which the bottom of the upper chamber is laid - underneath. To build a hearth, a special 25x25 cm brick is used, which is called a hearth.

Hearth equipment is an important stage in furnace construction, because... This part of the structure has to withstand heavy loads. During cooking, heavy cast iron frying pans, pots of different sizes, etc. are moved across the hearth, so errors and miscalculations during its construction can result in unplanned repairs and affect the functionality of the structure as a whole. The surface of the hearth is carefully leveled and polished so that there are no irregularities or cracks left.

In the front wall of the firebox there is an inlet hole - the mouth (also called the brow), which is closed by a removable damper. Due to the location of the mouth below the arch of the firebox, the firebox warms up well. The arch can be of any shape - oval, barrel-shaped or semi-circular. A layer of sand on the roof is needed for high-quality heating of the couch.

Outside the firebox, below the hearth, there is a hearth where pots are placed and burnt coals are raked out. Above the pole there is a closed chamber - the overpipe. It got its name because of the location of the stove pipe above it. A damper for a Russian stove is installed to regulate draft, and a view is installed to block the pipe and retain heat. The stove allows you to ventilate the room without losing heat. To do this, close the view and open the door.

How a Russian stove works - diagram

Description of the Russian stove with heating stove and stove bench

The description of the Russian stove with flooding can begin with the fact that it is a fully heated mass of brick weighing 6,500 kg. Such a stove can heat a room of about 50 square meters, provided proper insulation and properly organized supply and exhaust ventilation. The stove is more suitable for heating permanent homes. When installing such a stove in a country house, heating the room faster will be helped by firing a heating and cooking stove with a cast iron stove. The heating and cooking stove is integrated into the body of the Russian stove and is part of it. When using the complex in Russian oven mode, the cast-iron hob serves as a hearth. It is convenient to remove cast iron, frying pans and baking sheets from the oven using a grip. Stove with a stove bench. The size of the bed is suitable for children to relax on. The overall dimensions of the bed are 90 (width of the bed) and 155 cm in length. Like a teenager's sleeping bed. In order for adults to be able to sit on the stove, it is possible to extend the bed using shelves. The dimensions of the furnace in plan are 154.5 by 168.5 according to the project. The height of the stove bench is 150 cm. For ease of use of the stove bench, it is better to equip the stove with a special ladder or make steps in the stove body itself at the time of construction of the stove.

If you are interested in the description of this stove and it suits you, then you can order the project from the master. Phone and email on the “contacts” page.

Description of the stove project for a black sauna. Photos of the project implementation on the KaminTeplo blog page.

At this link you can find out the names of the elements of the Russian stove. If the Russian tepushka stove is too big for you in size, look at the completed project of a brick fireplace stove near Priozersk or an example of laying a heating and cooking stove in the village of Krotovo, Priozersk district, according to my project. The stove is simple, but differs from the standard one due to the location of the load-bearing wall of the house and the chimney system.

All stoves are designed to burn wood and fuel briquettes. The stove produces maximum power and can be an economical source of heat only when using dry fuel. Read about how to prepare and store firewood.

A brief overview of the advantages and disadvantages of the Russian stove

Among the main advantages of installing an oven of this type, experts cite the uniform distribution and long-term heat output, the usefulness and high culinary properties of dishes cooked in the oven at low temperatures. Russian brick stoves can last for decades - 30 years or more, and if they are positioned correctly, they can heat fairly large houses consisting of several rooms. A variety of finishes allows even a large stove to fit organically into any interior style.

Among the disadvantages are the low efficiency compared to stoves with complex smoke circulation and the complexity of the design; the construction of a Russian stove requires skills and special knowledge, without them it is difficult to complete this work.

The original decoration of the Russian stove allows it to fit into any interior style

Building a furnace

The complete diagram of the Russian stove is shown in the figure below, with a list of positions. To what is described above there is an addition - a choke. This is a gas-air heat exchanger: the smoke circulation through the wall heats the air that is taken in below. The vent of the choke opens into the room above, then there is a damper, and behind it the mouth of the choke opens into the chimney above the view.

In summer, the damper is open, and the air flow in the air vent removes excess heat from the flue gases, providing good ventilation of the room. In winter, the damper is closed; heated air enters the room and warms it.

The air vent is the simplest and most reliable way to get bottom heating from the stove without overly complicating its design.

Podpeche;
Undercoat;
Six;
Dushnik;
Chelo;
Gate valve;
Chimney;
Roof;
flap;
Mouth;
Cutting;
Warm stove;
Hot stoves;
Threshold;
Backfill;
Furnace vault;
Crucible;
Cheek;
Porsok;
Podpechek;
Arch support;
Arch of pharynx;
Hilo;
Estuary arch;
Masonry ledge;
Choke channel;
The mouth of the chimney.

What is order?

The oven is laid out in horizontal layers of bricks – in rows. A set of instructions for laying each row is the order. Sometimes rows are called orders (first order, lay out orders, etc.). This is, generally speaking, incorrect.

For each type of oven, the order, of course, will be different. Modern orders are accompanied by drawings. You can start building a furnace only if its order is absolutely clear.

Scheme of a Russian stove with flooding

The diagram of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a double-circuit firebox. The inner core is laid on a fireproof mixture. The furnace lining is made of solid brick of standard size. The fittings for the stove were made in Finland. The stove has three fireboxes. The firebox of the heating and cooking stove, the firebox and the furnace of the Russian stove itself.

Scheme of a Russian stove - a heated stove with a heating element and a hob.

In this regard, the stove can be heated in different modes:

You can cook food on a heating and cooking stove.
You can use a heating element and heat the entire array of the Russian stove along with the crucible and the stove bench.
You can only heat a Russian stove. In this case, the smoke comes out through the chimney and is removed through the smoke collector into the chimney.
You can fire a Russian stove with the damper closed and the smoke will pass through under the stove and enter the chimney, heating the bottom of the Russian stove.
You can heat a Russian stove through a flood chamber, simultaneously with a heating and cooking stove, to ensure maximum heating of the room in cold weather.

To ensure these operating modes, there are appropriate valves (gates). I chose a sandwich type chimney for the smoke removal system for this stove. It is convenient, inexpensive and reliable. And when you arrive in a cold house, there will be no problems with kindling. If you want to build a Russian stove with a flood chamber according to this scheme in a house for permanent residence, then you can lay a brick chimney with the necessary fireproof cuts for the ceiling and roof.

Is it worth it yourself

Does it make sense to take on such complex work yourself? How much does the work of an experienced and reliable stove-maker cost? If 100% of the cost of materials, as is customary in general construction work, then it is not that expensive.

By no means, not twice as much against the material. You can come across offers to build a stove for 20,000 rubles, but this is obvious nonsense. Let's try to figure it out ourselves.

A stove maker works in mid-latitudes for six months, and always with an apprentice. Considering their employment at 100% of working time, the salary of a master at 25,000 rubles, and an assistant at 15,000, and the work completion time is 7 working days (this is a completely realistic period), we find that a simple stove will cost no less than 45,000 rubles, and a Russian stove with a stove and water heater (see figure) at 55,000-60,000 rubles.

But in a week it will be possible to heat it. There is only one condition: the master must tell where, when and to whom he has already installed the stoves, and they must be inspected personally. Good masters always stock up on recommendations, and if they hesitate and mumble, it’s better to turn to someone else.

To give a more complete idea of the complexity of the work, let's look briefly at how to lay out the simple oven described above. For example only; the detailed order of the Russian stove is a rather voluminous brochure.

Design of a Russian stove

Any mistake made during the construction process leads to the fact that the entire structure has to be redone. A diagram of the laying of a Russian stove, which is attached to the drawing and can be very different, can help in this matter.

Based on their size, these heating units are divided into mini, medium and large. They are used for heating and cooking. They definitely have a bed. To build them yourself, you need to study how a Russian stove works.

If you look at the diagram of a traditional design, you can see that it consists of:

ovens used for drying firewood are not always made;
a cold stove for storing kitchen utensils, it may also not be there;
pole - a niche located in front of the crucible. A hob is placed in it. If the stove is located in a different place, food is kept in the pole to keep it warm;
hearth - the bottom of the crucible. It is built with a slight slope towards the entrance to the chamber to make it easier to move the dishes in it.
a furnace or cooking chamber used for heat-resistant cookware and fuel. The chamber arch is similarly made with a slight slope towards the entrance. Due to this design feature, hot air collects under the ceiling, due to which the stove bench and side walls warm up;
cheeks – the front wall of the furnace;
oven mouths - holes between the cheeks;
cross-pipe - a niche above which the smoke exhaust pipe begins;
views - a window with a door that serves to block the chimney. Using it you can get to the damper that regulates traction;
a bench located behind the chimney above the crucible. When the oven is running, it warms up.

Currently, Russian stoves are supplemented with a cooking plate and a tank for heating water. In addition, in this design it is possible to warm up the flood chamber, as a result of which the unit heats up to the desired temperature much faster.

In the diagram of the laying of a Russian stove with a stove, you can see different departments. Their presence allows you not to heat the entire room in the summer, but to use exclusively the hob. As a result, a pleasant microclimate is maintained in the house and fuel consumption is reduced. In winter frosts, all departments are heated in the stove, and then not only the oven, water and stove are heated, but also the house itself.

Before you build a Russian stove with your own hands, they carry out a number of preparatory activities, which begin with choosing its location.

Order

1-6 rows

We do not use screed to waterproof the foundation; we lay it dry - sweating is excluded. We start from the left front corner (pos. a-1 in the figure). Place a 3/4 brick in the corner with the poke outward. From it there is a row of 12 full-lengths to corner a-2. Seam – widened to 13 mm; This will be everywhere in the first 3 rows, because... in the 4th row a masonry ledge will be formed.

In corner a-2 - two 3/4 pokes and a double row of full-lengths to corner a-3. We arrive at corner a-4 in the same way as a-1 – a-2. Row 1 is completed by two full-length frames, forming an opening of 540 mm. We check the masonry using the rule and diagonals.

In the second row (pos. b) on the sides the pokes of the 1st row are covered with spoons. In the corners there are 2 three-fours, laid in spoons. The full-length frames framing the opening are covered with 3/4 pins with bandaging of the seams. The third row (pos. c) is identical to the first.

4th row - according to pos. on the brace. The arrangement of bricks is the same as in row 2. We narrow the seam to 5 mm to get a ledge of 25 mm on the sides. We check the masonry with a level.

5 row - according to pos. d. In d-2 and d-3, two 3/4; between them there are two rows of spoons. The side walls are bonded. We squeeze the walls of the oven opening under the heel of the arch. We place the circles on the supports and lay out the 6th row identical to the 4th.

First arch

When laying out the arch, in addition to the above, you must observe the following; for subsequent arches/vaults too:

There should not be a single untied seam across the arch from heel to toe (on the left in the figure below).
The seams from the top to the heels gradually taper from 13 to 5 mm.
The circles with formwork are removed only after the solution has dried.

7-10 rows

The 7th row is laid out as the 5th; 8 - like the 6th (on the left in the figure) In the sidewalls from the inside, the pokes are cut to fit the heel of the arch. On the 8th row, we begin to lay out the sub-height: three rows of full-length splice stitches, counting inward from the forehead. The middle poke from below needs to be tucked under the arch of the arch. We place the 9th row as the 7th, but we lay out the 2nd row of the sub-stitch with spoons. We lay out the roof of the baking area.

Row 10 is special, in Fig. on the right: corners from 3/4, sides from spoonfuls; the rear is made of full-length buttocks. From the forehead inwards - 3 rows of full-length buttocks. There are 7 pieces in a row, laid flat. This will be the hearth with the bending hearth.

Bedding

We make the furnace backing from broken bricks and clay mortar. We tamp and stretch as indicated by the arrow. It’s better to do it yourself with a break and not try - not every stove maker can do it.

Rows 11-17

We lay out even rows as the 10th. In the odd numbered ones there are rows of butts on the sides; behind - spoon. The 15th and 16th are tucked under the heels of the arches. Upon completion of the 17th row, the laying of the walls around the furnace is interrupted until the entire front of the furnace is laid out, up to a vertical plane passing along the rear wall of the mouth.

Zev, squeeze, mouth, crucible

Arches and vaults are erected along the circles of the arches with formwork. The side walls of the bend will go into brick; the forehead and mouth are half a brick. The heel of the pharynx arch will be on the 15th row; the heel of the mouth arch is on the 16th. It will be especially difficult for a beginner to smooth the inner walls of the heil: from above you cannot see what you are doing, and from the inside dust and crumbs fly into your eyes. Therefore, the hilo needs to be processed from above, checking with a template.

18 and above

We place odd rows as 1 or 11; even - like 2 or 10, see fig. If the floors are laid on clay, then starting from the 19th row, the bricks from the inside are pressed in place to the roof of the furnace. But this does not always save the clay floors from falling through, so the best craftsmen build a box around the crucible, make a backfill of brick chips on the clay, level it and compact it, and over it they put a continuous lining of spoons, framed with ends with three-quarters at the corners. In order for the flooring to last forever and not push through the vault, what happens next depends on the prosperity and generosity of the customer: either a wooden board-flooring, or a row of facing bricks on mortar with bandaging of the seams.

The last method is not as simple as it seems: the arch is tilted anteriorly. Therefore, a row of bricks are placed flat on its locks lengthwise and with the seams bandaged relative to the key ones. Then they cut it onto a wedge so that the crossbar is flush with the walls.

The backfill will be double-sided, and the floors will lie on the wedge and walls. What's the point here? Let us remember the mechanics of construction: it is much more difficult to crush a vault from above than to break through it from the side. The load from the floors will be transferred to the lock, and from it along the arch to the cheeks of the stove. The arch of the vault will only work in compression and, if the floors fail, they will remain intact, and the floors are not difficult to restore.

If you undercut the bricks of the upper rows, then the load from the floors will give a lateral shear load on the vault. Building materials do not hold up well to shear. If the floors fail, the roof will fail and the stove will need to be rebuilt.

Do-it-yourself Russian stove “Teplushka”

The model of this stove is based on the classic Russian one, but has its own additions. The Teplushka was developed by Joseph Podgorodnikov, an engineer. This design can heat up to 35 square meters of space.

Differences from legacy models

— complete heating of the entire masonry, including the space under the firebox;
— for cooking there is no need to heat the stove completely; you can use the stove (after closing the furnace with a damper), which allows you to save fuel;
— the design includes a water heating tank.

Important! When laying, it is necessary to remove all excess mortar with a trowel. Under no circumstances should clay mortar be applied to the inner surface of the masonry; this will impair thermal conductivity and lead to increased soot deposition on the walls.

Ordinal masonry scheme

Water heating box

made from steel sheets. We make markings. Using a grinder, we cut out the walls and bottom of the box from steel. Then you need to cut a hole closer to the base of the box and weld a water tap there, through which it will be convenient to pour water from the tank. We fasten them by welding. We clean the seams. The tank must be closed with a lid of a suitable size; we make it in the same way, cutting out the roof of the tank and a rectangle from steel, which will serve as a lid, and welding handles from fittings to it.

1-2. We build the initial rows continuous. The first row can either be laid out entirely of bricks, or a frame can be built, which will account for the bulk of the stove, and the internal space of the frame can be filled with bricks in the form of halves and quarters of bricks. The second row consists of two walls: one is laid out one brick thick (a), the other is twice as thick (b, c). Over the areas laid out in two bricks, the following will be built: a stove, a compartment for storing dishes, an overpipe (Figure b), as well as a heating shield (Figure c), between these elements we will place a crucible - a niche for cooking and a stove bench (roof).

3. Next, we lay out the blower channel, the blower itself, and lay out the firebox.

4. We continue to build walls. We close the cleaning hole with half a brick.

5. Bricks cut with a grinder at an angle (a) will come in handy here. These bricks will serve as support for the vault, which we will build next. After this row is lined up, we take sheets of plywood and cut out several semicircular templates from them. We fasten them together with slats and screws, we get a semicircular shape for masonry (2), which will support each brick during the construction process.

1-beveled wedge-shaped bricks; 2-plywood formwork; 3-boards; 4 – masonry of the arch.

6. Place a metal box for water (a). We begin to lay out the roof of the oven.

7. We make an overlap over the horizontal heating channel of the shield.

8. Install the grate (a) on the beveled bricks. We make the angle of inclination of the bricks in such a way that the coals roll freely down onto the platform (b). We gradually fill the vault (arch) with sand.

9. We install the firebox door, clamping the fastener into the brickwork and additionally strengthening it with wire. Add a layer of sand to the arch.

10. In this row we leave a hole (a), through which we will clean the shield channel (b), located horizontally. We cut the bricks at an angle of 45 degrees and cover the water heating tank with them, leaving access to the lid and tap.

11. We continue construction based on the drawings. We pour and compact a layer of sand between the walls of the oven. At the same time, we achieve a slope towards the mouth.

12. On sand compacted with a bevel, we begin laying the hearth (a). After the row is laid out, we cut out recesses above the firebox and install a cast iron plate there (b). There should be a small gap between the edges of the slab and the bricks. Pour sand into the gaps.

We cover the brickwork in front of the stove with a metal corner, protecting the bricks from crumbling in case of accidental impacts.

13. Cut a strip from a steel sheet. Bend the edges to one side. We bend the strip itself into a radius. It will serve as a form for the mouth of the furnace and at the same time protect it. We block the horizontal channel of the shield, leaving space between the bricks (five windows - a, b, c, d, e). From these windows we will build the heating shield channels straight up.

14-16. Further masonry remains unchanged. In the 16th row above the metal arc we place two bricks cut at an angle.

17-18. We begin to lay out the arch (a) above the metal strip. To do this, each brick is cut to the required angle. We mark from the center. The bevel angle is determined by a thread stretched from the center of the arc to the top of each brick. When the arch is ready, we lower the formwork, cut from plywood in the form of semicircles, fastened together with wooden blocks, into the crucible. After this, we begin to lay out the vault from solid bricks. We insert small fragments of bricks into the gaps between the bricks, directly into the mortar. This will give strength to the arch (b). Next, in the eighteenth row we overlap the pole.

19. On the left side of the masonry we make “heels” from beveled bricks. We will build an arch separating the choke from the hearth.

20. We lay out the arch again using the previously described technology. On the right side we make the base of the overtube.

21. Shut off the furnace.

22. Form a bed. We make the laying of the choke (a) and the box into which the soot will fall (b).

23. We make a cross-pipe and at the same time five channels going up.

24-26. We lift the masonry up.

27. We install two functionally different valves (for summer and winter operation of the stove) - a, b.

28. We overlap the overpipe.

29. We are installing a half-door designed for a view.

30. We combine the smoke channels.

31. From the air vent (b) we lay out a channel (horizontally).

32. We begin to completely cover the overpipe. To do this, you can use metal corners as a support. Leave a hole for the pipe.

33. Completely cover the heating shield with bricks. Next is pipe laying.

Evolution

The development of the Russian stove followed four intertwining branches: bottom heating, stove, economy, compactness. A huge contribution to it was made by I. S. Podgorodnikov, who developed the “Economka” and “Teplushka” series of stoves, which are still widespread today. The diagram of Podgorodnikov’s “Teplushka” is shown in the figure. It was improved by I.V. Kuznetsov; – in Fig. lower left.

The bottom line is that the firebox and cooking chamber are separated, and the oven is sealed. The flue gases are lowered through a hole into the furnace (on which a second low bench is installed, convenient for the old and young, and the firebox works in the most natural way as a stove. The accumulation of soot in the furnace is eliminated thanks to careful design calculations. How much work did this cost in the age of adding machines and slide rules? , it’s better for us not to guess.

However, such a stove took up a lot of space and acquired an increased fire hazard: the fire burned close to the mouth of the firebox. Further improvements until the 90s were of little use - the oven became too complicated. The following picture shows a cross-section of a compact housekeeper from the 70s - 80s. Its efficiency is above 80%, but not every stove maker will be able to put together such a labyrinth, and even a heating engineer with a diploma, much less an ordinary housewife, will not be able to immediately figure out the purpose and procedure for using all these doors and dampers. In addition, there are nooks and crannies that are inaccessible for inspection and cleaning.

With the development of computer modeling, the Russian stove took the path of qualitative improvement: all creative abilities could be turned into ingenuity and ingenuity. The following picture (right) shows a successful modern Russian stove. The “highlight” of the design is that instead of backfilling under the bakery (where, as it turned out, it still does not work as intended), they installed a winter firebox. Increasing the height of the bedding made it possible to bring the volume of bedding under the furnace to optimal.

Such a stove has only one drawback: to switch between winter and summer, you need to move not one, but two dampers, and in addition, install/remove a heavy plate that covers the mouth of the winter firebox. If you do come up with something with this stove, then such a stove can already be automated for the winter: the winter firebox can run on gas.

Nuances of laying Russian stoves

In the case when a foundation is designed, it must be done efficiently, controlling the horizontal level of the base under the stove. After it is ready, the main stage of work begins. A drawing can help you figure out how to properly assemble a Russian stove. The main thing when laying bricks is to adhere to the order.

To make the design as safe as possible, a real Russian oven is made absolutely airtight. For this reason, cracked bricks are not used.

The thickness of the seams between the rows can be from 5 to 8 millimeters. When ensuring tightness, stove makers do not recommend using clay, coating the walls with it from the inside. The fact is that after this, during the operation of the unit, soot begins to accumulate on them and the degree of their thermal conductivity decreases.

Before laying, the ceramic brick is soaked so that in the future it does not absorb water from the solution. As a result, the mixture and bricks dry simultaneously, thereby providing the walls with sufficient tightness.

External walls are made of one or one and a half bricks, and internal walls are also made of half a brick. If you make the internal walls a whole brick, they will turn out to be too thick and will take longer to warm up, which means that the operating principle of the Russian stove will be disrupted and fuel consumption will increase.

Installation of required appliances for the furnace

The devices that any Russian stove must have are installed and fixed as they are laid. When heated, metal heats up more than brickwork. Therefore, when producing a stove firebox, you should not be surprised at the deformation of the metal door frames. The outcome is that the frame expands and simply falls out. To avoid this, the firebox door frames are fixed with a gap (4-5 mm) between the masonry and the frame, which must be filled with asbestos cord. For reliability, the frames are strengthened with paws. The tabs are placed between the bricks and secured using brick and mortar. The frame with the cord should be inserted as tightly as possible into the opening. There should be no voids between the masonry and the frame.

The hole needed for the firebox can be closed using different methods. If the length of the brick exceeds the width of the hole, lay the brick into a strong lock. In the opposite situation, use a jumper.

Having finished laying clay bricks, it is worth starting lining the stove. The walls must be rubbed with dry red brick. This will help get rid of dried clay residue. Next, the seams are unstitched: they take a wooden spoon and give them the appearance of a half-roll. The unlined surface of a Russian stove has better heat transfer, but its appearance is sloppy and rough. Dust gradually accumulates in the seams. Therefore, the stove should be covered with tiles.

Russian stove vault

Sometimes the vault is made very low, almost level with the top of the mouth. In such an oven, the pies are burning on top, but damp on the bottom, because the hot roof is close. It is not necessary to cut wedge bricks in the masonry of the vault. The seams at the bottom of the vault should be reduced to nothing, and at the top they should be up to 1 cm. For the strength of the vault, it is good to occasionally insert brick plates - wedges - into the seams of each row before driving the castle bricks. Key bricks (the last row in the vault is best done from the front of the vault. After finishing laying the vault, it may turn out to be uneven at the top, which means it is not even at the bottom. This happens due to uneven boards in the formwork. To straighten the vault from below, you need to put it on take a board and, where the tubercles are visible, hit it with a hammer, then the vault is leveled. Afterwards, moisten the seams well with water. I usually lay vaults without formwork, slowly, with dry bricks.

Ordinal description of the masonry of the RP with a fireplace.

Once again I want to remind you that the order of the furnace is not an engineering drawing and only shows the order of masonry, the location of the channels of the valves and other elements of the furnace. Proper bandaging is done by the stove maker himself on site each time differently, depending on the location of the stove in the space of dimensions and deviations of the brick and seams, on the choice of the shape and size of the stove fittings and the method of finishing the stove.

The Russian stove never went out at all. It slowly warmed up in its corner during industrialization, electrification, gasification, and was always the object of close attention of specialists due to its remarkable qualities. Nowadays the Russian stove is experiencing a rebirth; a significant role in this was played by its economy, omnivorousness and the ability to build with your own hands - no expensive materials or complex industrial equipment are required. What is it good for, what are its secrets, where can and cannot be built?

We increase the efficiency of the Russian stove due to the lower heating

As I already drew your attention to earlier, the lower flood in the Russian stove is a modern modification. A chimney channel runs into the lower part of a modern Russian stove, which serves to heat the lower part of the stove

This is a huge contribution to reducing the amount of fuel burned. Moreover, if you heat a Russian stove with a stove bench only through the main firebox, then your feet will simply be cold and you will have to walk around the house in warm shoes. But the lower heating of the Russian stove solves this problem easily and simply! This is how it looks in the photo of a Russian stove with a bottom flood.

Thus, we double the area of the heating source! Therefore, to heat the same room to the desired temperature, you will need half as much wood as if you had a classic Russian stove

. Well, now let's turn to solving the second problem - fast cooking. This solution follows from the first thesis.

A Russian oven with a stove is the best solution for cooking in such an oven. After all, it’s worth throwing a few firewood into the lower flood, and within 15 minutes the stove of the Russian stove will be hot enough to heat water or heat up food. Unlike the classic version, when you want the wood in the hearth of a Russian stove to burn out, only coals remain. This will take at least an hour. And such a Russian stove with a stove

- the most effective solution in 2021!

Russian stove for a summer residence

.
Now let's talk about sizes. I specifically want to post a photo where we are designing the dimensions of a Russian stove with a hob
. This is a photograph of the same Russian stove No. 180,

If you take any version of the Russian stove with a stove bench

- then such a design in depth (due to the couch) has a dimension of at least 2.5 m! It’s not easy to imagine a country house with dimensions of 5x5, that is, 25 squares, where 3.5 squares are occupied by a stove, because there is already not much space... and most importantly, a huge amount of brick and firewood goes into the stove, which is not always affordable for the owners of small houses. In our case, the customer and I came to the conclusion to completely abandon the couch, which would take up a lot of space.

The size of my Russian stove with hob and heating element

came out: 7 bricks x 6.5 bricks, or 1.7 meters x 1.6, which is quite acceptable for any small house.

Of course, my work is only a private solution for a specific customer. Here, for example, is another one of my Russian stoves with a stove bench and a stove, and a lower heating

.
I built this stove at the beginning of 2010, and I don’t have a photo of the stove bench, but the structure turned out to be huge. I hope you like my work, but the price for such a Russian stove will be much higher due to the large volume of work. Russian stove No. 182

If you are interested in my approach to work, then I am always ready to help solve any of your problems in the field of laying Russian stoves

, especially since there are not many stove makers in St. Petersburg with such real experience and their own photographs.
And there are many factors: firstly, this is not the most common task. For example, over the course of the entire year, 10-12 people may contact me with a request to lay a Russian stove with a stove
.
And many people by the price of a Russian
stove.
The price of work on a Russian stove
ranges from 180,000 - 350,000, the same range of materials, depending on the volume and type of brick.

In order to give any assessment of my work and the necessary materials, I need to fully understand the task. To do this, call me directly, I will identify all your needs, describe all the parameters for myself and be able to draw up an estimate for your Russian stove.

Why are Russian stoves so popular?

The Russian stove is a large structure that heats up well and retains heat for a long time.
The variety of designs allows you to obtain many qualities that were the reasons for the return of fashion for Russian stoves.

The device warms up slowly, but at the same time, the massive brick walls give off heat for a long time. Thanks to this quality, the house is heated only twice a day, which reduces maintenance time. Modern building materials only improve efficiency and properties for maintaining a comfortable microclimate.

If you plan to cook food regularly, in addition to the obligatory crucible, the design includes a hob and a small oven. To use these elements, separate fireboxes are provided so as not to heat the house in the summer.

For small buildings, as well as for rarely visited dachas, it is advisable to build a Russian stove with a stove bench, which will warm up and become a comfortable resting place.

The walls of the structure do not heat up to high temperatures, so it is safe to dry clothes and shoes made of any materials on them.

In addition to serving practical purposes, a Russian stove can be a home decoration. To do this, they use tiles, tiles, and sometimes simply whitewashed walls add color.

Options with built-in fireplaces are popular. The heating and cooking takes place in the kitchen, and on the side of the room there is a portal with an open fire.

You can build a stove of any size and design.
The positive qualities of the structure add to its popularity:

fire safety - surfaces do not heat up to high temperatures, which eliminates the ignition of walls, ceilings and surrounding objects;
long service life before major repairs, ensured by the use of durable materials;
uniform heat distribution due to the large area of heated walls;
versatility, the ability to integrate the structure into various room designs;
ease of maintenance.

Among the negative aspects are:

the difficulty of self-building for an inexperienced user;
the need for a massive foundation;
high cost due to the large amount of building materials and payment for the work of professional stove-makers;
high consumption of firewood, which must be stored in a place protected from precipitation.

Having decided to build a Russian stove with your own hands, they begin to select a project, prepare materials and directly start work.

Construction of a Russian stove with your own hands

For construction you will need fireproof and ceramic bricks. Fireproof is used for laying the firebox, ceramic for the rest of the structure. It is also necessary to prepare templates for arches and vaults, and steel strips. In addition, you need the following cast iron elements:

combustion, blower, cleaning, ventilation doors;
grate;
view;
flap;
stove and two burners;
hot water box.

Masonry mortar: features of preparation and quality control

Masonry mortar can be purchased at a hardware store in the form of a dry mixture, or you can prepare it yourself. To do this, you will need refractory clay, sand, and for fireclay bricks, also fireclay powder. Brick pipes in the attic space are laid on a cement-sand mortar.

The main difficulties arise with the choice of clay. It can be of different structures, and the stove maker’s task is to find the right proportions for mixing sand and clay. Check the plasticity of the solution by rolling a small flagellum out of it and bending it. The better it bends before cracks appear, the better the solution. Another old-fashioned method: a ball of mortar needs to be squeezed with two boards until cracks appear. A good solution will crack when it shrinks to a third of its diameter.

When preparing masonry mortar, it is important not to make mistakes with the proportions. In any case, it is better to make it more fatty than too lean

Foundation and masonry of a Russian stove

It is better to design the foundation for the stove together with the house; later it will be difficult to build it in a finished building. Experts recommend choosing an independent slab foundation for the Russian stove and building it using standard technology. The protrusion between the edge of the foundation and the masonry (cut) is made at least 0.5 m. When the structure is ready, a two-layer roofing material is laid on it as a waterproofing material.

The stove masonry must be airtight. To achieve this, you need to choose durable bricks without cracks and make thin seams (up to 5 mm).

The oven is placed in brick, half- and quarter-brick. It is better to lay the outer walls in brick, and the inner walls in half a brick. Dressing of sutures - bonding and spoon laying alternately. A furnace is left in the lower part and covered with brick or concrete slabs. The masonry seams are treated and plastered, coated with cement, external surfaces can be finished with ordinary plaster for interior and exterior work. After this, finishing is done and the oven is ready.

The process of laying a Russian stove: erecting an arch

The special value of the national home lies in the spiritual enrichment of an urbanized society. In many ways, the return to the origins of stove construction is due to a tribute to fashion, because there are more modern and relevant models of heating devices. Folk style, an appeal to traditions is a natural process for a civilization whose life is far from the way of life of its ancestors. The Russian stove in the interior of the house is a symbol of restoring the lost connection of generations. A beautiful, functional, efficient stove not only heats the house, but heals the soul and body.

Detailed description of brick kiln laying technology (with video)

The description of the laying of stoves should begin with the fact that the walls and corners of the stove should be positioned strictly vertically. In order for the stove to be level, it is recommended to lay it out in formwork, which should be plumb and level at the construction site.

The step-by-step laying of the furnace begins with the need to mark the contours of the future structure on the foundation with chalk, taking into account the thickness of the seam. Masonry should be carried out with ligation of vertical seams on half of the brick, under jointing. First, all the bricks of the row must be dry fitted, then removed and placed on the mortar.

Brick laying should be done quickly. Otherwise, it will be impossible to lay the thickened mortar and level it in a thin layer, so all halves, quarters and three-quarters of bricks must be prepared in advance.

If you apply the mortar to the entire row of masonry at once, it will quickly thicken, and the joint will be uneven in thickness, so it is recommended to apply the mortar in an even layer separately to each brick. The detailed masonry of the furnace is discussed in detail in this material.

To quickly and evenly apply the mortar, it is necessary to place a small amount of it on the corner of the brick and spread it along the edge with an inclination towards the edge. Then you should unfold the brick, apply the solution to its second half, forming a tubercle in the center.

The thickness of the seams of stove masonry made of ordinary red brick should be no more than 5 mm, and of refractory and refractory bricks - 3 mm. The thinner the seams, the better the quality of the stove.

The technology of laying stoves requires that when constructing pipes, the thickness of the seams should be no more than 10 mm. The seams should be completely filled with mortar, and the internal and external surfaces should be cleaned of excess by hand or with a trowel.

Master's advice. For better retention of the plaster on the surface of the stove, it is recommended to leave the seams unfilled to a depth of 5-10 mm. If the stove is not planned to be plastered, then the seams should be filled completely.

If the brick does not fit properly onto the mortar, it should not be corrected by tapping. It must be removed, the surface must be cleaned of the solution, moistened and installation repeated.

Each row of masonry must be made with 1/2 brick joints. In rows where three-quarter bricks are used, it is allowed to bandage 1/4 bricks.

The furnace must be laid taking into account the need for horizontal rows and verticality of outer surfaces and corners. To comply with this rule, each row of masonry should be checked with a building level for horizontality, and with a plumb line for vertical walls and corners.

For convenience, it is recommended to stretch a cord between the formwork posts, which you can use to guide you when laying. Each row must be checked against the order drawings.

All internal surfaces of furnaces must be smooth, without protrusions and depressions that impede the movement of gases and impair the operation of the furnace. Turns and corners in the channels should be rounded, and the narrowing or widening of parts should be done gradually, therefore, after 5-6 rows of masonry, the internal surfaces of the firebox must be wiped with a wet rag, smoothing and rubbing the seams to remove excess mortar. If this is not done, the solution may crumble during heating.

When facing with refractory bricks, the thickness of the seams should be no more than 3 mm. This brick should not be tied with red brick. Due to their different thermal expansion, the masonry may collapse.

An outdoor stove should be easy to install and easy to use. It should be built on a separate, reliable foundation, not connected to the foundation of a house or other nearby building. It is prohibited to tie up the masonry of fireplaces with adjacent structures (walls, fences).

It is imperative to bandage the vertical seams of the masonry, and also ensure that the thickness of the seams is no more than 5 mm. In some cases, coincidence of vertical seams is allowed, but not more than two rows of masonry.

It is forbidden to place bricks with the chipped or hewn side inside the firebox or ducts, as in this case they will collapse from exposure to high temperature. A detailed illustration of the laying of a brick oven in the video will allow you to familiarize yourself with this process:

On a note! It is prohibited to coat the internal surfaces of stoves with mortar or plaster, as these layers quickly fall off and clog the channels.

One should also remember about the different thermal expansion of materials when attaching metal parts to the furnace. For example, metal supports must be guided away from the furnace using wire strands. More space is required for longitudinal thermal expansion, for example when installing grates.

Mini stove finishing process

Incorrectly selected solutions may not immediately crack or even crumble the next day, but they will still not last long.

Building a stove with a firebox and a fireplace is a fairly long process. People often look forward to its end. The most labor-intensive and time-consuming part of the work is brickwork. However, even after the last brick is laid, it will be too early to consider the job finished. You will also need to complete the finishing that the mini-heater needs.

If the mini stove is very neatly built from beautiful facing bricks, has a smooth front edge and right corners, you can do without additional finishing. However, quite a large number of people have their own prejudices about the fact that brickwork should not be in the house at all. Consequently, the heated house is often provided plastered and whitewashed.

The traditional method would be to simply coat it with clay mortar.

This is done without the use of any special tools - clay is thrown on and smoothed with a moistened palm.

The surface after such a finishing process may not be completely smooth, with traces of handmade work. It is worth understanding that today this technique is widely used to create something unique in interior design.

Modern technology for applying plaster involves the use of special tools. among which there will be trowels that will be needed to apply the solution, trowels to level the applied solution, a grater with which the solution is compacted and the surface is leveled in a circular motion.

The heated building can only be plastered when it is 100% dry. Before moving on to this process, you should heat it. The solution will consist of clay and sand in a ratio of two parts sand to one part clay.

Foundation for a Russian stove

For furnaces, the foundation is made in the form of a slab, which is separated from the foundation of the building. Before deciding on the depth of the pit, drawings of the furnace are made with dimensions, its location in the house is determined, the type of soil and its level of freezing are assessed, as well as the height of the groundwater. For example, in the Moscow region the level of soil freezing is about one and a half meters. Therefore, it is recommended to make three rows of FBS (with a block height of 60 cm).

A foundation made of rubble and rebar is cheap and reliable, but it must be allowed to dry for two to three weeks. Another option is a foundation made of FBS

(base wall block). It is convenient, durable, but somewhat more expensive than a rubble concrete foundation.

Important! Waterproofing is laid in two layers. The first is located directly in the trench, the second is slightly below floor level.

We calculate the number of blocks. We compare the dimensions of the foundation and the dimensions of the blocks, which are indicated in the markings (24-4-6, respectively, length, width and height, indicated in decimeters).
We are digging an oblong pit. Its depth should be 25 centimeters greater than the freezing depth of the soil.
We lay waterproofing in the pit, then a layer of crushed stone (10 cm) and sand (5 cm), and compact them.
Mix the concrete and pour a thin layer, no more than two centimeters. We wait for the concrete to dry.
Next, it is necessary to build a foundation that will protect the structure and prevent the foundation from sagging. We lay out a row of FBS pillows, starting from the corners. We fasten the joints with cement mortar.
We check with a building level that there are no distortions.
In subsequent rows, we place each new block at the junction of two lower ones. If voids form that the block does not fit into, we place bricks there.

Preparing mortar for laying a furnace

Choosing clay

- for red brick we take clay and sifted sand in a ratio of one to two; - if you plan to use refractory bricks, the clay must accordingly be refractory; - for fireclay, mix fireclay powder (3-4 parts) and fireproof clay based on bentonite or kaolin (1 part);

— when constructing pipes, bricks are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.

Soak the clay in a barrel or iron tub for two days. The volume of water is based on a ratio of 1 part water to 4 parts clay. Then add sand to the mixture. It is very convenient to mix the composition with your feet in rubber boots. The solution must be homogeneous, without large inclusions or lumps.

List of materials

Brickwork is a classic option for a furnace, as the material heats up evenly and slowly.

single red brick M-200 – 1600 pcs;
fireclay brick Ш-8 – 250 pcs;
wedge-shaped fireclay brick Ш-44 – 100 pcs;
smoke valve 26x26 centimeters – 2 pcs;
smoke valve 13x26 centimeters – 3 pcs;
damper (dimensions are determined by location) – 1 piece;
two-burner hob (dimensions are determined as you go) – 1 piece;
grate 20x28 centimeters – 5 pcs;
combustion door 21x25 centimeters – 1 piece;
blower door 14x25 centimeters – 1 piece;
cleaning door 7x13 centimeters – 2 pcs;
steel corner 60x60x5 millimeters - 1.5 m;
steel strip 50x5 millimeters - 20 m;
fireclay clay – 100 kg;
sand, ordinary clay - the amount is determined according to the need for the material.