Do-it-yourself large Dutch heating stove without a stove

A Dutch oven with a stove is one of the most popular types of heating structures all over the world. Compact, highly efficient and economical - it not only allows you to heat the house well in harsh winters, but also helps the housewife prepare dinner for the whole family.

Dutch oven

In this article, let's look in detail at how to make a Dutch oven with a stove with your own hands. Order and basic rules will help you cope with this difficult task.

The history of the Dutch oven dates back to the 15th century and since then it has undergone many modifications and improvements. Over these six centuries, the shape of the Dutchwoman and its size have changed slightly. But what really remains unchanged is its efficiency and compactness.

Type of Dutch oven

The small size of the Dutch oven is partly explained by the cramped houses in the Netherlands and the need to fit the heating and cooking structure into a room, the dimensions of which sometimes did not exceed 10 square meters.

Tiled stove

Cities in northern Holland have always been densely populated, and local residents needed to somehow adapt to urban conditions. And given the rather harsh climate and cold winters, it was impossible to do without high-quality heating of the home.

Round oven

In addition, in the Netherlands in the Middle Ages there was a very high tax on area, so local residents had to contrive to build the house high. Agree that not every stove is suitable for a multi-story structure.

The Dutch oven is easy to recognize among other heating device designs precisely by its shape: they are elongated and have a large height. In this case, one stove can be enough to heat two or three floors of a house at once.

The first Dutch models were not equipped with a grate and a blower, and the housewives knew nothing about the hob. However, over time, stove makers and engineers added these minor elements to the layout of the Dutch stove, which made it possible to significantly increase its efficiency.

The movement of hot gas in a Dutch oven traditionally occurs through 6 channels: 3 rising channels and 3 descending channels. And the bell system allows you to accumulate hot gas and increase the efficiency of heat transfer.

Also, another difference between the first models is the presence of an arched vault, which over time, for technical reasons, was replaced by a rectangular firebox.

Today on the Internet you can find many different designs of Dutch women equipped with an oven for baking bread, beds, a water heating tank, etc. We will dwell in detail on the layout of a Dutch oven with a stove.

Little Dutchwoman

How the Dutchwoman works

A distinctive feature of the Dutch oven is a six-channel chimney system through which heated gas circulates.

Coming out of the combustion chamber, the smoke rises upward along the upward flow. During his journey, he manages to heat the walls of the furnace. Then it cools down and goes down to the firebox. When heated, it rises through the second channel, etc. The sixth channel already removes smoke outside through the chimney.

Dutch woman's work system

The six-channel system allows the oven to heat up evenly, without sudden changes, and retain heat for a long time.

If we talk about the design of the Dutch woman, the main elements here are:

• large firebox;
• chimney;
• 6 smoke channels.

Whatever the dimensions of a Dutch oven, its firebox is always large and has a rectangular shape, while the design of the Dutch oven itself can be semicircular, triangular, etc.

Dutch oven elements

A large firebox significantly increases efficiency and makes it possible to later supplement the design with a water heating system.

The Dutch chimney is connected at the side to the chimney, and their connecting link is a metal pipe.

If the oven needs to be cooled quickly, just open the damper.

Standard furnace diagram

Dutch design features

• Lack of grate.
• The presence of several smoke channels.
• There is no ash vent, which is why the fuel does not burn intensely, but allows the wood to burn slowly, releasing heat into the room.
• Long elongated shape.
• The Dutch oven can be classified as a long-burning structure, since due to the lack of a blower, the firewood slowly smolderes. But at the same time, if you do not close the view, the oven will instantly cool down. Only the firebox door allows oxygen to pass through.
• The firebox is rectangular in shape.
• The classic version involves only a heating function. Over time, craftsmen supplemented and modified the standard type of stove, adding the necessary elements in the form of a stove, oven, stove bench, etc.

  Stove is an optional feature

• The thin walls of the oven are only ½ brick, thanks to which the oven heats up quickly.

Oven space

Before directly installing the structure, it is important to decide on the location of the furnace, since this issue is considered extremely important and relevant. Many people think that the best solution is to place the structure in the middle of the room, and in this case the smoke ducts should be laid along the wall, thus reducing the heads and improving draft. However, with this arrangement, constant air circulation is formed, in which it cools near the outer walls and returns to the stove, forming a stove draft. Cold air above the floor, which moves from the walls to the stove, creates discomfort for people who live or are simply in the room, so good health cannot be achieved in this way.

Therefore, the best solution is to place the Dutch oven near the outer walls, however, even in this case there are certain disadvantages. A problem arises with smoke ducts because condensation appears on the internal walls and draft deteriorates, so the room will become dirty very quickly.

A compromise and the most optimal option is to locate the stove in the middle of the house, and the surfaces that give off heat should go into the living rooms, and the parts that are exposed to a lot of pollution, such as the firebox and stove, should be in the kitchen.

This stove is well suited for a summer residence

Video - Dutch oven

Advantages and disadvantages of a Dutch oven

Like every oven, the Dutch oven has its own advantages and disadvantages.

If we compare the design of a Dutch oven with a stove with the traditional design of a Russian oven, then the advantage will be with the former. It warms up much faster due to the small walls, and its dimensions allow it to be placed even in a small dacha or in a country house.

Dutchwoman with a stove

In addition, if it will take you 1200-1300 bricks to build a small Russian stove, then for a Dutch stove of impressive size you will need only 650-700 bricks. This factor alone makes the Dutch oven attractive, especially during times of economic crisis.

Another advantage of the Dutch woman will be especially attractive for dacha owners who visit their country house from time to time. If a Russian stove needs to be heated for several hours before it starts giving off heat, then lighting a Dutch stove will take you no more than half an hour. It can be immediately loaded tightly and given maximum heat.

So, the advantages include:

• Possibility of modifying the stove with various functional additions in the form of a water heating tank, stove bench, oven, fireplace, etc.
• Compact and small in size. If you wish, you can build a good quality stove measuring 50*50 cm.
• Fast heating of the room.
• The efficiency of the furnace does not decrease depending on its height.
• Low construction costs. Only the firebox can be made from expensive refractory bricks, while even used material is suitable for arranging the rest of the structure.

Disadvantages of the Dutch woman:

But it would be unfair not to mention the disadvantages of the Dutch oven.

• Low efficiency compared to a Russian stove. Only 40-45%, subject to proper use.
• The channels are designed in such a way that they can partially draw in cold air from the street.
• Frequent firing of the stove is required - at least twice a day.
• Not the most economical fuel consumption.
• You need to constantly monitor the oven view. If you leave it open, the oven will instantly cool down.
• You should not set the maximum temperature for a Dutch oven. If you overheat it, carbon monoxide will be released, which can penetrate into the room.

Today there are many models of Dutch women:

• with fireplace;
• with oven and heating and hob;
• with water heating tank;
• with a sun lounger.

But basically, this type of design is chosen for its compact size and the ability to place it in a small house. If the room has a large area and many windows, then it is better to give preference to other types of heating structures: a Russian stove, a bell-type stove or a Swedish one.

Pros and cons

Each stove has its advantages and disadvantages, and the Dutch oven is no exception. Thanks to its thin walls, it is more efficient than a Russian stove. Also, due to its fairly compact size, it can be installed in any room or building. Savings are also important. The construction will use half as much brick as a Russian stove.

In addition, the Dutch woman has the following advantages:

• if necessary, the design can be modified and supplemented with functional elements;
• the design can have different sizes and shapes (round, rectangular);
• the room warms up very quickly;
• the height of the structure does not in any way affect its productivity;
• To build a Dutch oven, you need to spend a little money, since previously used bricks will do just fine.

The operating principle of the stove is very simple.
Before construction, you should also familiarize yourself with some of the disadvantages of the device:

• even proper construction and operation does not ensure high furnace productivity;
• the channels are designed in such a way that there is a risk of drawing in cold air from the environment;
• The stove needs to be heated several times a day;
• despite the savings, a lot of fuel is spent on heating;
• the view must be constantly monitored, otherwise the structure will quickly cool down;
• It is unacceptable to heat the oven to the maximum temperature.

A modern Dutch woman is equipped with the following elements:

• fireplace;
• oven;
• hot water tank;
• sunbed;
• heating and cooking surface.

First of all, the Dutch woman is chosen due to its simplicity of design, operational efficiency and cost-effectiveness.

During construction it is worth considering many nuances

Basic rules for arranging a Dutch oven with a stove

Whatever option for arranging the furnace, size and dimensions you choose, the construction principle remains the same:

• The stove is installed on a separate foundation. Of course, it is best to think about it at the stage of building a house. This will make it easier to correctly determine the location for the chimney so that it does not fall on the beams and roofing.

  Separate foundation for the furnace

If the idea of ​​building a Dutch house came to you already in a residential building, then you will have to remove part of the floor covering and build a solid foundation that is not connected to the main one. This rule should not be neglected, since, despite its small size, the Dutch oven has quite impressive dimensions.

It will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. As you know, a house undergoes a certain shrinkage during operation, and if the stove is built on a common foundation with the house, then there is a risk of deformation, displacement of the chimney, etc.

As a result of this, the sealing of the seams may be broken and carbon monoxide smoke will penetrate into the room.

• The foundation must be covered with waterproofing material.
• When arranging a firebox, you need to use only high-quality fireclay (fireclay) bricks, which in no case should be combined with ordinary ones.
• To lay the stove you need to purchase a heat-resistant clay mortar. You can, of course, do it yourself.
• The thickness of the seam when laying the combustion chamber should not exceed 3-5 mm. Beginners may find it difficult to stick to the same seam size.
• The entire Dutch oven must be laid with a joint thickness of 5-8 mm.

Advice! To ensure that the seams are equally even, use wooden slats between the masonry.

Despite the fact that the Dutch woman is highly fire resistant, when arranging it

It is necessary to adhere to basic fire safety measures when constructing a Dutch oven:

Fire safety standards

• Before the stove you need to leave a sheet of asbestos board to prevent accidental fire from sparks or coals.
• It is necessary to systematically clean the chimney channels from accumulated soot.
• It is also necessary to lay a sheet of fire-resistant material between the stove and the wooden walls.
• Nothing should stand at a distance of 50-55 cm from the stove: furniture, decor, other objects, etc.
• The fewer metal parts you use to build the Dutchman, the better. But when making hanging masonry that closes the opening under the cooking zone, you cannot do without metal corners.

Remember that nothing should be done against the iron or on bare brick. In all places where it is planned to join metal parts with brick, it is necessary to lay a 5 mm layer of mortar and lay an asbestos cord.

Dutch woman with stove

• When laying the hob on a brick, it is necessary to lay a layer of clay mortar on it. This will protect the brick from heating.

Tools and materials used in the construction of a Dutch oven with stove

A prerequisite for a good stove is high-quality masonry mortar, which is recommended to be mixed from red clay and brick. The main composition for Dutch masonry is sand, red clay and water.

In this case, the ratio of proportions for each type of clay will be different. The less sand is present in natural clay, the correspondingly less is needed for the solution.

Clay

For oily clay we take the proportion: 1 part clay and 2.5 sand.

For medium clay - 1 part to 1.5 sand.

For skinny ones you will need 1 to 1.

Materials for laying a Dutch oven with a stove:

1. Fireclay refractory brick for combustion chamber.
2. Red ceramic brick.
3. Foundation mortar (cement, sand, gravel and water).
4. Mortar for laying bricks.
5. Roofing felt for foundation waterproofing.
6. Boards for the construction of formwork.
7. Grate.
8. Blower.
9. Metal door.
10. Damper.
11. Metal rods and wire for reinforcement.
12. Metal wire 0.8 mm for dressing.
13. Asbestos cord.
14. Hob.

Prepare the following tools:

1. Trowel for laying bricks.
2. Building level, protractor and plumb line.
3. Construction stapler.
4. Tape measure and marker.
5. Rule.
6. Grinder for turning bricks.
7. Shovel and bayonet shovel.
8. Bucket for solution.
9. Construction mixer or drill with attachment.
10. Rubber hammer for laying bricks.
11. Construction hammer for erecting formwork.

Materials and their quantity

To build a Dutch oven without a stove yourself, you will need the following materials and oven casting:

No.	Name of material and stove fittings	Unit change	Quantity
1	Ordinary ceramic brick M150 - M250	Thousand PC.	0,65
2	Fireclay brick	Thousand PC.	0,05
3	Oily clay	kg	90
4	Coarse river sand	m³	0,5
5	Grate 250x250 mm	PC.	1
6	Cleaning door 130x70 mm	PC.	3
7	Fire door 250x280 mm	PC.	1
8	Blower door 250x140 mm	PC.	1
9	Gate valve 130x130 mm	PC.	1
10	Gate valve 130x250 mm	PC.	1
11	Asbestos cord	m	10
12	Tempered steel wire	m	10
13	Steel strip 50x5 mm	m	3,5
14	Heat-resistant adhesive for strengthening masonry joints	kg	20

To build a foundation you need to buy:

• Portland cement - 1 bag (50 kg);
• sand - 0.01 m³;
• crushed stone - 0.5 m³;
• reinforcing mesh with cell size - 0.84 m²;
• roofing felt - 0.84 m²;
• bitumen mastic - 8 kg;
• board for formwork assembly - 152 m³;
• nails - 0.2 kg;
• knitting wire - 15 - 20 m.

Do-it-yourself Dutch oven with stove, order and masonry diagram

Diagram of a Dutch oven with a hob

Step 1. Preparatory work.

Preparatory work includes pouring the foundation and insulating the walls.

Considering the large weight of the stone oven, it is recommended to use the classic option of constructing a concrete foundation with the construction of formwork.

Foundation diagram for a brick kiln

1. Completing the foundation.

• Mark the floor where the stove will be located. It is preferable that the door and window are not in a straight line. Also consider the construction of a chimney, which can be done through the roof or through the wall. Also keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the dimensions of the stove by 15-20 cm on each side.
• Using a grinder, we cut out the boards in the wooden floor and put them aside.
• We build the foundation, fill it with mortar and cover it with roofing felt. We take a technological break of 20-25 days until the base completely hardens.

1. The base for the stove and waterproofing.

• The foundation is made to the floor, not reaching two rows of bricks. The upper part of the base should be made of brick, which is laid in a continuous row, with a dressing.

  Furnace base

• We make the base of the furnace. Before this, you need to perform waterproofing using roofing felt. Measure the required size on a sheet of roofing felt and cut it with a knife. Take 2-3 layers of roofing felt and connect them together using a construction stapler. We attach it to the base.

The technical feature of the Dutch oven is that it gives off most of the heat to the floor, so the waterproofing stage is very important if you do not want the heat to go to the floor.

Waterproofing the base under the stove

If the house is located in northern latitudes and soil freezing reaches 1-1.5 meters, experts recommend using, in addition to roofing felt, an additional layer of basalt cardboard. This is an inexpensive and reliable material that will create good insulation.

• In order to be sure that the stove is laid correctly, experienced stove makers advise pulling vertical plumbs.

Plumb lines for oven verticality

Stretch a rope or thread from each corner, which will serve as a beacon, preventing it from moving to the side during laying. If you are not going to do this, then after each row you need to check not only the masonry with a horizontal level, but also use a protractor with a vertical plumb line. Otherwise, your furnace may be tilted to the side, resulting in reduced efficiency and poor draft.

1. Preparing bricks for laying and mortar.

• We select the bricks that we will need for laying the stove and do the dry laying.
• Mix the clay solution. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle at one time. The next day, this clay-sand solution will no longer be suitable.

Place clay in a trough, add a little water and let it sit for 2 days. Do not forget to stir the material during this time so that no hard lumps form. Bring to the desired consistency with sand and mix well again with a construction mixer.

Important! If you started building a stove in cold weather, prepare the brick in a securely sheltered place. For each row, immediately prepare the required number of bricks, adjust according to the diagram.

Step 2. Laying the stove.

Ordering an oven with a hob

We present a standard diagram for laying a Dutch oven with a stove. To practice folding it, stove makers recommend laying out the bricks on a dry surface, according to the diagram. This way you will see whether you have enough material and those points that you should pay special attention to.

It is recommended to immediately lay it out to dry.

Before you begin laying, immerse the bricks you need for this stage of laying in water so that they do not draw moisture from the mortar.

1. Now we proceed to laying the stove, with the first row being the one that starts from the level of the finished floor.

Detailed masonry of a Dutch oven

We make the 1st row continuous. We put it with a bandage. This row will serve as a guide for the entire structure, so it is very important to make it level. You can use a protractor for this.

Rows 2-3 are also made continuous, maintaining horizontality.

2 rows of bricks up to the finished floor level

4th row - in this row we install a blower with a gap of 5 mm. We fill the gap with asbestos cord. When heated, the metal will expand. To prevent it from deforming the brick, we will lay an asbestos cord where metal-to-brick contact is expected.

4 row

Please note how the figure shows a diagram of laying metal wire into the mortar between the bricks.

Correctly attaching the metal door and vent

Row 5 is performed similarly to the fourth. Carry out laying from right to left. Consider here the dressing of the seam in 1/2 brick.

5 row

Row 6 - here it is necessary to partially block the ashpit and ash pan. To do this, we cut the brick lengthwise and lay a steel strip measuring 35 mm * 4 mm under the brickwork.

Row 7 – we begin to form the combustion chamber from fireclay bricks. Here, in this row, we install the combustion door.

7 row

We lay the grate, while making a seam gap of 3-5 mm. We bevel the bricks for the back wall according to the order. The gap can be filled with sand or ash.

Installation of the combustion door

Row 8 - Also in this row, the blower door is closed, which finally forms the ash chamber.

Rows 9-14 – the firebox is laid out in a similar pattern, laid out with fireclay bricks.

The combustion chamber is formed

10 row. Cover the firebox with bricks. In the same row it is necessary to place prepared bricks for installing a metal plate.

Fuel chamber

This row should be given special attention, since it is on it that the metal hob will lie.

In the same way as the bricks were prepared for the installation of the grate, we make grooves on the bricks for the slab. The notch should be 5 mm. This will allow the metal to expand freely when heated.

We lay an asbestos cord into the resulting gap, which we protect with paper cardboard. During operation, this cardboard will gradually burn out, and the cord will constantly compensate for the sharp temperature change.

Plate

We carefully lay the metal plate. For reliable fixation, we secure its edges with metal corners.

Rows 11-13, we begin to form a zone above the slab, laying out bricks according to the diagram.

The 14th row is laid out similarly to the previous one, but here we already place bricks in which we make small grooves. We insert metal corners into them, on which the bricks of the 15th row will rest.

15 row. We cover the space above the surface of the slab.

Cleaning installation

16, 17 row. We lay out a row similar to the 15th, but here we install a door for a cleaning hole. In the same way as in the row with the blower, we make a gap for expansion and lay an asbestos cord.

Rows 18-22. We lay out the rear smoke return channel.

Blocking the smoke channel

23 row. Here you need to install a valve under the smoke duct. For this, the bricks need to be adjusted, and an asbestos cord must be laid between the metal element and the brick.

Gate valve installation

24.25 row. They are laid out in order. Here we combine 2 channels: lowering and lifting.

26 row. We begin to form the chimney. Here you need to ensure that no solution remains on the inner surface of the chimney. To do this, it must be cleaned off immediately, otherwise during operation, the dried solution will interfere with normal traction.

27,28 row. We continue to form the chimney, moving all the bricks by 4 cm, thus narrowing the chimney.

Smoke channels are under construction

29-30 – We are laying smoke channels and installing a valve here to regulate draft. We take into account a gap of 5 mm for the expansion of the metal into which we lay the asbestos cord.

31 row. We reduce the size to the original form.

Step 3. Laying the chimney

From the 32nd row, the laying of the chimney begins.

Chimney laying

Here the masonry comes with a continuous bandage in several rows.

3 rows before the roofing, we “fluff” the pipe. This will protect the wooden structure from fire. Stick to one pipe thickness of 1.5 bricks.

Chimney exit through the roof

Ideally, the design of the stove and, accordingly, the chimney, should be laid out at the stage of building a house or during a major renovation. Then you will not have any special difficulties with the construction of a smoke well.

Chimney laying

If the Dutch oven is being built in an already finished house, then you will have to cut a hole in the roof for the passage of the chimney.

• It is necessary to remove the roof covering in the place where the pipe will be installed (slate, tiles, corrugated sheets, etc.).
• We install jumpers at a distance from the ventilation pipes.
• If the coating is a continuous coating that cannot be partially dismantled, then we measure the hole of the required size and cut it out using a grinder or jigsaw.
• We lay a thermal insulation layer between the chimney and the wooden floors with asbestos sheets, which we fasten to the rafters with self-tapping screws or a construction stapler.
• We lay the chimney through this hole.

It is very important to carry out all fire safety measures when constructing a chimney. Namely, maintain a distance of 38 cm between the chimney and the nearest ceilings.

In order to maximize traction, we round the corners of the brick. If you don't cut corners, the eddies will weaken that pull.

In addition, the fluff prevents the wind from penetrating the chimney, which will also protect the draft.

We extend the chimney above the roof to a distance of 60 cm.

Removing the chimney

The penultimate 2-3 rows come with expansion. This is called "otter" and protects the roof from water penetration. On the last row we narrow the chimney to its original appearance.

We install a metal cap on top that prevents precipitation from getting inside the pipe.

To correctly calculate the height of the pipe outlet above the roof, focus on the location of the ridge.

If you are making a hole in the attic, which is well insulated, it is enough to use an electric jigsaw or grinder to carefully cut out the opening in the sheathing and the insulation.

After you have brought the chimney duct through the roof, you need to carefully close the opening between the pipe and the ceiling. To do this, you can fill the entire space with thermal insulation material. Pack the insulation tightly. It is best to use stone wool or foam glass for this.

Step 4. Finishing work and lining the furnace.

Finishing work includes lining the stove and the first kindling.

The facing material can be clinker tiles, tiles, decorative plaster, etc.

If you have chosen high-quality red ceramic bricks for construction, then you don’t have to line the top with anything.

Dutch facing

After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. To do this, leave the combustion chamber door open. If the stove was laid in cold weather and the house is damp, you can put a lamp inside the stove, which will help speed up the drying process.

Step 5. First test firing of the furnace.

Only after the masonry mortar and cladding have completely dried can you begin the first heating of the furnace. Take your time and do not ignore this point, as premature lighting of a damp stove can lead to its cracking and disruption of technical properties.

For a test fire, use 1/5 of the usual amount of firewood. There is no need to immediately lay large logs. Use wood chips and shavings. This kindling will help dry the stove efficiently. Open all latches and dampers.

Dutch woman burning

Fire the stove in this mode for the first week, and the maximum temperature should not exceed 600C.

As you can see, building an efficient and compact Dutch oven with a stove with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to be patient and follow our advice exactly.

But after finishing the work, you will experience the incomparable pleasure of a warm stove of your own production and the cozy atmosphere in the house that it gives.