How to make lathing on a loggia and balcony

The best material for a balcony

Of course, you can simply cover the room from the street with the profile and stop there. Starting a balcony renovation is not a task for the lazy. But the interior decoration with clapboard will transform the concrete walls, making them elegant and well-groomed. How nice it is to drink tea on such a balcony in the summer!

Cladding with clapboard will require some skills and costs, while many of the works can be done with your own hands and, in fact, it does not take that long. First of all, you should choose the finishing material, the rest will depend on it. Any slats for cladding are called lining (because carriages were lined with wooden slats for cheapness). Today it is a common name for PVC panels (“plastic” lining) and wood.

Plastic is not so difficult to install, it is light and easy to clean, resistant to temperature changes, humidity, and household chemicals. It is better to choose light panels that hardly fade over time (this is true if the loggia faces the sunny side). The cost of PVC and wood differs in different regions, this can also influence the decision to purchase a particular material. For some reason, plastic lining does not impress compatriots; many find the most budget-friendly wooden lining more interesting. Although there are many more difficulties with its preparation, installation and maintenance.

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If you want to cover the loggia with wooden lining, then be prepared for the following:

• Before installation, the wood must be treated with special compounds;
• If you plan to paint or varnish the panels, then this is done after installation;
• Wood is afraid of water and should not be wetted, washed with rough sponges or abrasive chemicals;
• After a few years, it will be necessary to remove the protective layer (coating) and again treat the lining with compounds.

There are no fewer people wanting to cover different rooms with natural lining, so advice on choosing will be useful.

How to upholster a balcony with clapboard: take the tools into your own hands

As often happens, at a family council a couple of days ago it was decided to improve the cold and cluttered balcony and make it more comfortable. And quite expectedly, the choice fell on lining, but you don’t know how to upholster a balcony with lining with your own hands, so you need experienced advice.

Related article: Types of clothes dryers for the balcony

We are ready to share our experience, especially since the work ahead of you will be interesting and not very difficult, but it will require accuracy and patience. The reward for perseverance will be a cozy area, which will become another full-fledged apartment space, including a relaxation room, a workshop, a garden and a storage room for storing seasonal items.

How to make lathing on a balcony

It is better to weed out the sheathing assembly from purchased linear elements according to a previously drawn up diagram in the form of enlarged elements (with dimensions corresponding to the opening of the balcony door) in a horizontal position on the floor of the room to which the balcony or loggia is adjacent. This will ensure convenient alignment of the frame in one plane, and will also significantly simplify the work of connecting adjacent elements. Thus, the assembly of the sheathing will be reduced to the connection of 3 or 4 parts of the frame, transferred to a vertical position, instead of the labor-intensive adjustment and leveling of many individual horizontal and vertical components.

The vertical posts of the sheathing must be secured between the slab protruding as the balcony floor and the slab of the overlying floor. It is best to use perforated tin strips for this purpose, capable of bending in different directions, and screws with plastic wedging dowels. If it is impossible to obtain permission for this method of installation from a neighbor on the top floor (and this requires drilling holes in the slab of his balcony), you can use wedges mounted on some suitable glue.

Installing sheathing on an open balcony that has only a metal fence has its own specifics.

In order not to use two frames - for external and internal cladding, it is better to increase the thickness of the wooden frame elements so that it exceeds the cross-section of the metal parts of the fence, and usually these are strips and rods of round or square cross-section. The frame should be installed so that the fence is “fitted” inside it, serving as an additional load-bearing structure and not interfering with subsequent cladding carried out on the outside and inside.

The sheathing on the balcony for plastic panels, wooden lining and other sheet finishing materials differs only in the size of the cells, the dimensional module of which must match the similar cladding module. The sheathing under the lining on the balcony can be installed in both horizontal and vertical cladding versions.

Panoramic double glazing with hinged or sliding doors is usually installed in the front wall of a balcony or loggia. The sheathing of the side walls of a balcony differs from the front wall in the absence of such windows and is usually carried out under continuous cladding or cladding.

How to properly cover a balcony with clapboard

The cladding of a balcony is technologically not much different from the finishing of other rooms: first, the frame is assembled, then the cladding board is nailed to it. It is necessary to align the sheathing horizontally and vertically, and then correctly position the first plank on the wall or ceiling, since all the others are installed from it. Then the second is nailed to the first board, then the third, and so on, until the corner. On the next wall everything repeats again.

Making the sheathing

Cladding with clapboard begins with the creation of a frame - sheathing. It is most often made from a block. The cross-section is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation (if any). The block should be of such a size that there is a gap of 1.5-2 cm above the surface of the insulation. This gap will allow maintaining normal humidity of the insulation and wood, which will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

If a beam of the required size is too expensive, you can save money. Under the sheathing take a block of the same thickness as the insulation (or a little more). It is mounted between the guides, and a counter-lattice is placed on top, perpendicularly. It is made from planks 1.5-2 cm thick. They will give the required gap. Just be sure not to get confused with the direction of fastening the lining.

An example of a balcony sheathing under clapboard

Cladding can be vertical or horizontal. The sheathing strips under it are installed perpendicularly. If the trim will be attached vertically, then the sheathing under it should be positioned horizontally.

If there is a counter-batten, the rules change: the primary batten is also packed (vertically), and the counter-batten is packed horizontally. With this system, the planks will be mounted vertically.

More often, clapboard cladding on the balcony is done vertically. Accordingly, installation of the sheathing can begin with the strip under the window block. It is set horizontally, checking the level in two planes. If the wall is uneven, install wooden or plywood pads of the required thickness in the right places. Fasten the sheathing with dowels.

The planks must be installed around the perimeter of the walls and ceiling, 30-40 mm away from the corners. It is also necessary to fill the perimeter of window and door openings. Then the intermediate bars are fixed: one plank from the other should be at a distance of 40-50 cm. It turns out to be a frame on the walls and ceiling, to which the lining is then attached.

A similar structure is assembled on the ceiling

The lining boards are cut slightly shorter than the required length (0.5-1 cm). This is necessary to compensate for dimensional changes due to high temperature and/or humidity.

Installation instructions for lining

They are fastened with self-tapping screws or nails to the sheathing strips. If you use nails, take them with a small head - finishing nails, self-tapping screws - for wood (preferably light ones, not black ones). There is another fastening option - with staples from a construction stapler. This is the fastest way and quite reliable. Just take staples with a long, sharpened leg; T-shaped ones will also work.

The first bar is installed in the most difficult corner to work with. It is placed with a spike in a corner, and the correct installation is checked using a building level. They are nailed into the face (into the front surface), retreating 1-2 cm from the edge. To prevent the wood from splitting, a hole is first made with a thin drill. Then they tighten the screw or hammer in a nail.

On the opposite side (where the groove is located), the lining is secured with nails, screws, and staples. They are driven into the tenon at an angle of 45°. This creates a hidden fastening - it is covered with the next board.

Fastening the lining with a nail (screw, staple) into the groove

There is another option - cladding with clapboard using special mounting plates - clamps. They hold well if the tenon is long enough, and this can most often be observed with eurolining. The clamps are installed in the tenon (as if they are put on it). On the other side they have a mounting plate with holes for nails. One or two nails with a small head are hammered into this plate.

Fastening with clamps

The first board is attached to each plank of the sheathing, all subsequent ones - one after another in a checkerboard pattern (alternating). The second board is inserted into the tenon of the first. If it does not fit tightly, it is tamped down with a small piece of wood placed against the plank. and a hammer. They hit a piece of wood with a hammer. This complexity is necessary to avoid damaging the board. Having driven the tenon into the groove, check whether the bar is vertical. If necessary, adjust, then nail. This is how the entire paneling is assembled. The last plank sometimes needs to be cut to width. It is attached closer to the corner, like the first one, in the face.

The process of installing lathing and wooden lining is shown in the video.

See the video below for the complete process of covering a balcony - from installation of exterior finishing to installation of slopes and trims. We only worked with PVC panels, but the finishing stages are similar. The only difference is that the wooden lining does not have starting strips. All tops and bottoms are covered with baseboards, and corners with corners.

Preparing the balcony for finishing

Regardless of the type of finishing material, the preparatory process includes dismantling the old coating, sealing cracks, and insulating surfaces. Each stage must be performed as carefully as possible, because this affects the quality and durability of the finish.

Preparing the balcony for finishing

To work you will need:

• cement-sand mortar;
• Master OK;
• primer;
• metal spatula;
• polyethylene film;
• slab or roll insulation;
• wooden slats 40x20 mm;
• screws, screwdriver;
• drill;
• dowel-nails;
• level;
• polyurethane foam.

Removing the coating and sealing cracks

They take out everything unnecessary from the balcony, remove baseboards, wallpaper, and lighting fixtures. Peeled paint and plaster are cleaned off with a spatula, and metal surfaces are treated with a metal brush. Large cracks need to be opened using a grinder, pieces of mortar and concrete chips must be removed. At the same stage, if necessary, replace old windows with new ones.

Removing the coating and sealing cracks

All gaps, cracks, cracks are sealed with thick cement mortar, large holes are first filled with foam cuttings. Vertical seams are blown with polyurethane foam, the excess of which, after drying, is carefully cut off with a sharp knife. It is also recommended to foam the cracks around the perimeter of the window opening rather than cover it with mortar. As the window is used, the dry mortar will crack and crumble, and over time you will have to get rid of the cracks again.

It is also recommended to foam the cracks around the perimeter of the window opening

The subfloor is checked for defects, small gaps are filled, and the seams around the perimeter of the walls are sealed. If the base is too uneven, make a new screed and suspend work until it dries completely. After this, all surfaces are cleaned of dust and primed.

Preparing the balcony for finishing

Balcony insulation

Balcony insulation

Before finishing the room, the ceiling and walls of the balcony must be insulated. For this purpose, foam plastic, penoplex, expanded polystyrene boards or roll insulation with a foil surface of penofol are suitable.

Balcony insulation

The slab materials are fastened after installing the sheathing from slats, but if roll insulation is used, the sheathing is stuffed on top of it. The thermal insulation of the balcony must be continuous so that there are no cold bridges, so the ceiling, walls, and floor are insulated at once.

Let's get back to preparation

Be sure to eliminate all cracks, through gaps and holes. Problematic surfaces should be plastered, coated with PVA putty and left to dry for at least a day.

Important! Never use plasterboard (even moisture-resistant) for finishing work on the balcony. A small amount of moisture will eventually lead to cracking and complete destruction of the surface.

For lathing, you can use a metal profile, wooden blocks and slats. The main thing is to choose the right fasteners - nails, screws (for wood or metal).

Insulation options

There are various ways to insulate rooms, including balconies. You can take polystyrene foam - the simplest and most affordable material. Isover or insulation with a foil surface is also suitable. Here everyone decides based on their own preferences and financial capabilities.

How to choose PVC panels for a balcony ceiling

The service life of the material is 10 years or more, and in order for the decor to serve properly, it is important to pay attention to the following factors:

1. Connections. A simple combination of parts will help determine the quality: the density of the lamellas without play or cracks along the entire length of the joint will indicate that the manufacturer strictly followed the manufacturing technology. The joint error is no more than 0.2 mm per 1 lm.
2. Evenness of the plane. If low-quality or recycled raw materials are used, stiffening ribs will be visible on the surface of the lamella.
3. Ribs thickness. See the parameter in the product specifications: the thicker the stiffeners, the stronger the lamella itself.

And now about how to calculate the required amount of material: first you need to decide on the layout (lengthwise or crosswise). Then divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​one element, add 10% to the final figure and this will be the required purchase volume

It is important to consider the width of the dies. If the length parameter is 3 m, laying across with a ceiling width of 140-150 cm, one lamella is divided in half without waste

The most popular dies lengths: 150; 200; 300 cm.

Stage 7 Installation of skirting boards, strips, completion of the main work.

During the installation of the lining, a lot of debris, trimmings, shavings accumulate on the balcony - do not forget to periodically remove all this. We inspect all the walls and floors for defects, and sand the lining if necessary. Next we move on to the installation of skirting boards, here everything goes according to the “top to bottom” principle. The tools you need are furniture nails, a 100-150g hammer and a hammer in the form of a dull nail. Also, if you don’t have an angle cutter, you will need a miter box to cut the baseboards at an angle. We attach the ceiling plinth to the nails, lightly press them down with a hammer, and then sand them with sandpaper up to 300 grit. In this way, we clean the place where we hammered the nail and mask it.

Next, you can nail the wooden corners onto the slopes, according to the principle described above. We cut the corners at 45 degrees, fasten them to the same nails, preferably every 10-20 cm, because the place will be a passage, and we need the corner to withstand some loads. Next, we need to lay the floor and screw on the skirting boards so that they come with vertical skirting boards.

After laying linoleum and installing plastic skirting boards, we complete the process by installing vertical skirting boards and strips. After thorough cleaning, we coat the walls with water-based varnish. 2 times, thereby gaining the ability to wet clean wood, moisture and dust-repellent properties.

Material selection

Wooden crafts

Let's find out what lining is and why it received such an interesting railway name. Lining is a carefully processed board, equipped with grooves and ridges (locks) for ease of installation. Thanks to them, the possibility of gaps forming between the panels is eliminated.

Type of classic wooden paneling.

Manufacturers claim that for the first time, this method of joining boards was used in Russia to create cars for the railway (hence the name “lining” - board for cars).

And the phrase “eurolining” does not mean at all that this product is made in some special way. This is a common misconception or PR stunt.

There is a difference, and it lies in the size standard:

• thickness 12.5 mm,
• working width – 88mm,
• total width – 96mm.

Dimensions of imported lining

There is another misconception that the Eurolining, which is similar in name, does not need to be treated with anything - it is already ready for use. This is an extremely incorrect judgment - cladding a balcony with clapboard requires further protection, and maintenance is needed, like any other wooden surface.

Plastic products

It should be noted that the sheathing for the lining on the balcony can be made of plastic. Here we draw your attention to the fact that plastic panels and PVC lining have differences, both in size and in connection locks.

Note! Construction stores offer a large selection of plastic lining that imitates the natural texture of wood.

Of course, it is easier to care for plastic surfaces than wooden ones, but you will have to forget about the natural charm.

After weighing all the pros and cons, you decide for yourself what material your loggia or balcony will be covered with. But the installation procedure is the same for both panels made of synthetic materials and wooden lining.

How to decorate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Decorating a PVC balcony with your own hands correctly is very simple. Even someone who has never taken on such work and does not have special skills can do such work. The most important thing in this work is to have perseverance, thoroughness, prepare all the tools, and read the instructions that are presented below.

It is very important to prepare all the tools and materials so that there is no need to stop the work process and run to the store. The following tools may be needed for work:

The following tools may be needed for work:

• Screwdriver with magnetic attachment;
• Drill;
• Construction foam for installation;
• Level;
• Set of plastic corners;
• Window sill profile;
• Insulation material;
• Suspensions;
• Metal profiles;
• Self-tapping screws.

The most important stage is the sheathing; it is performed after the waterproofing has been carried out and before the sheathing itself is carried out. The sheathing is the part on which the entire structure will be supported, so it should be given as much attention as possible. After this, the profiles are attached to the wall, their interval should be at least 50 cm. After finishing work with the lathing, you can begin finishing the ceiling. Finishing the entire loggia with panels begins with decorating the ceiling.

After the metal frame is installed, work should be carried out as follows:

1. Galvanized metal profiles are fixed around the entire perimeter;
2. Using a drill, holes are made in the walls and dowels are inserted. The structure is attached to the wall using a screwdriver.
3. A profile is attached in the middle of the ceiling using iron hangers. If the loggia is large, you may need several profiles. If the width of the loggia is no more than 1.2 m, then one profile is sufficient.
4. Profiles for plastic panels are attached to the profile, which is central;
5. We are working on the wiring that will provide lighting in the future; to do this, we stretch it around the perimeter;
6. We insert the first panel into the profile and fasten it with self-tapping screws. We do the same with the remaining panels until the very last one.
7. Cut the last panel to the appropriate size. It should extend 6 mm beyond the profile.
8. The last and penultimate panels are swapped. This is done to avoid unsightly gaps.

If there is a need during the work, you can use moldings to adjust the length of the skin. After the work with the ceiling has been completed, we sheathe the walls. Basically, interior wall cladding begins from the place under the windows. In this work, most of the actions are similar to the previous ones.

Step-by-step actions are as follows:

• The metal profile is attached to the bottom of the window sill.
• The location of the profiles located on the side is checked using it; for this you need to use a building level;
• Next, the profile is attached, which is located at floor level and in the middle of the wall;
• Metal hangers are installed, their distance should not be less than 50cm;
• The void between them is filled with insulation, and the resulting gaps must be lined with construction foam;
• A metal profile is attached to the hangers;
• The panels are installed on the installed profiles; they need to be fastened with self-tapping screws;
• The gaps that remain between the floor, window sills and panels are covered with special skirting boards.

Installation of sheathing

The next step, which involves finishing the balcony with siding from the outside, is installing the sheathing. It is necessary in order to level the surface on which the finishing material will be mounted in the future. For these purposes, you can use a wooden beam or galvanized profile. The latter must be installed using special hangers on which you can string insulation, for example mineral wool or, as in the photo, extruded polystyrene foam.

Various options are used to fix wooden elements:

• It is attached to a metal base using special copper clamps;
• On brick or concrete, using anchors or dowel nails;
• The timber can be attached to a wooden surface using self-tapping screws or nails.

When using wood as a sheathing for a balcony, you must treat it with an antiseptic or other protective solution.

Instructions for installing the sheathing

In order to prepare the sheathing on which the siding will need to be attached, the following requirements must be met. The distance between the slats should be in the range from 50 to 60 cm

If you install panels at a greater distance, the load-bearing capacity of the sheathing may not be enough! Particular attention should be paid when fixing the upper horizontal guide. Most carefully you need to attach it to the base (wall, metal structure)

It is recommended to use metal rods or corners, fixed with self-tapping screws to the timber, and facade anchors to the base of the facade. Before covering the balcony with siding with your own hands (if further insulation or glazing is implied), you can additionally insulate the surface

In this case, it is extremely important to take into account that the overhang of the sheathing (its thickness) exceeds the thickness of the thermal insulation material intended to be used by approximately 3-4 cm, in order to create an analogue of a ventilated facade. Plates of insulating material (foam plastic or mineral wool) are placed under the panels.

The step-by-step instructions assume that the next layer must be a layer of waterproofing.

useful in work

During the process of decorating a balcony with siding yourself, you can lay electrical wiring inside the structure. Which will be needed later when installing lighting and sockets. This will hide it inside the wall.

The question of how to fasten the lower horizontal beam is no less important than fixing the upper crossbar. You can fix it to your balcony using anchors or dowel nails. Only after the upper crossbar is connected to the lower one by means of vertical posts can you raise the question of how to cover the balcony with siding yourself.

Preliminary preparation

Securely attach the wooden blocks to the floor

Before making the lathing, it is necessary to ensure reliable fastening to the floor, which will not allow the structure to lose its shape, will avoid swelling, and will prevent the joists from moving. Each block is fixed under strict control using a laser level, a regular construction level or a hydraulic level. Before laying the longitudinal bars, you should carefully level the floor surface, filling all detected cracks or depressions with cement mortar or foam.

Similar manipulations are carried out both on the parapet and on the wall adjacent to the room. After leveling, it is necessary to take care of waterproofing, since the balcony sheathing is constructed after the surfaces are fully prepared. For fastening use:

• screws,
• dowel nails;
• anchor bolts.

Related article: Do-it-yourself sliding doors: designs and installation methods (photos, videos, drawings)

All these fasteners can be useful when working with both wooden beams and metal profiles.

First of all, longitudinal joists are attached

The installation of the sheathing on the ceiling is carried out in the same way. It is necessary to secure a metal profile or timber on a flat surface of the slab. First of all, the longitudinal joists, and then the cross members. The fastening must be especially strong, taking into account the upcoming insulation and installation of lighting. In cases where it is planned to install a dryer on a balcony or loggia, 50x70 mm timber is used for installation. The crossbars are attached at intervals of at least 30 centimeters, and the longitudinal bars at a distance from each other of at least 40 centimeters. Reliability of fastening is ensured by anchor bolts.

Sheathing the side walls of a balcony or loggia

Internal lathing of balcony walls

A certain difficulty is presented by the lathing of the side walls of the balcony and its front part. As strength elements, you will have to use steel racks installed at the corners of the balcony. And also steel bars for the balcony fencing.

Some craftsmen are trying to carry out this fastening using dowels. Don't waste your time: such fasteners will loosen in a matter of weeks. Both wooden joists and aluminum profiles should be fastened to metal load-bearing structures exclusively with screws.

To do this you will need a drill, drill bit, and taps. In corner posts you can cut M6-M8 threads, in fence rods - M3-M4.

If you were unable to get long M3 or M4 screws, then drill blind recesses in the joists - “glasses” with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head, leaving a “bottom” 5-10 mm thick at the bottom through which the threaded part of the screw will pass. After screwing in the screw, this “glass” can be plugged with a wooden plug or simply covered with epoxy.

There is an option when pieces of wooden beams measuring 50x70 mm installed in the corners are used as a load-bearing support. But they also have to be fastened with screws to the corner metal posts, and wooden joists are nailed to them.

Often in this case, transverse bars are also installed - “from the floor to the window sill”. The design turns out to be quite massive.

Keep in mind only one thing: welding work can only be carried out if there are no flammable materials on the balcony.

Lathing the internal wall of the balcony

As a rule, insulation of the internal wall of a balcony or loggia (the one located between the balcony and the living space) is not done. She is already considered “warm”.

But sometimes, for purely decorative purposes, it is also sheathed with the same material as the rest of the balcony, with the installation of sheathing.

There is a slightly different difficulty here: you need to frame the door and windows facing the balcony. But this operation does not require anything special except accuracy: wooden slats are nailed to the wall with dowels or dowels in the same way and serve as the basis for covering with finishing material.

Insulating the sidewalls of loggias is not a significant difficulty, since in this case a buttress protruding from the wall can be used as a load-bearing element. The front part of the loggia is processed in the same way as the front part of the balcony.

Balcony sheathing with insulation laying

Currently, it is practical to cover balconies and loggias from the inside with siding and PVC panels. In this case, instead of wooden slats and beams for sheathing the side walls and ceiling, it makes sense to use the so-called CD profile. It may be called differently by different manufacturers and in different stores: “CD strip”, “ceiling rail”, “PP”, etc. This does not change the essence: this is a profile made of galvanized sheet, having the shape of the letter “P” in cross-section.

It is produced in a variety of standard sizes, the largest (60x27 mm) can be used for assembling power structures. It is convenient to attach plasterboard boards in it (take note if you are thinking of using this material to insulate your balcony!), It is affordable, since many companies and individuals use it to install suspended ceilings.

CD profile appearance

Working with it is fundamentally no different from working with wooden joists or slats. You just need to remember that if you are doing siding, then you need to attach the CD profile with the “legs” of the letter “P” to the wall, and with the “crossbar” outward. Otherwise, you will have nothing to attach the siding to. Or you will have to put wooden slats into the grooves of such a sheathing, which will only make the work more expensive and take a lot of time.

This kind of profile is durable, you can, without fear, attach it to the wall with dowels in blind holes with a pitch of 50-70 cm. The CD strip differs favorably from wooden sheathing in that it does not warp, it does not burn, and bugs are indifferent to it -woodworms, but...

A tree is a tree! It accompanies a person throughout his entire history, it is closer and dearer

Options for arranging a balcony floor

Initially, you need to determine what kind of design you want to get as a result. She may be:

• Cold. The slab is covered with floor covering.
• Insulated. A heat insulator is placed between the base and the finishing material.
• Warm. A heating floor system is installed on the base, and finishing is placed on top.

Instagram raheema_ahmedd

All three types can be easily arranged independently if desired. It is only important to choose the right system correctly. For example, heating loses all meaning if the structure is not glazed.

With high-quality glazing, heating turns the balcony into another living room. You can realize your idea in different ways. Practice shows that such options are most often chosen.

Options for arranging a warm base

• Leveling with cement screed without or with an insulating layer. In the latter case, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc. are laid as an insulator.
• Leveling the base with a semi-dry screed with or without insulation.
• Installation of wooden logs with or without installation of a heat insulator. Subsequent installation of a rough base from boards or wood boards, laying finishing such as linoleum, laminate, etc.
• Installation of extruded polystyrene foam as a thermal insulator without logs. Subsequent installation of OSB as a base for the finishing coating.
• Arrangement of concrete screed under laminate, linoleum, tiles.
• Installation of any type of underfloor heating: electric or water.

Unsplash

For open spaces, ceramic tiles laid on a screed are suitable. For glazed systems, heating structures, insulated structures with or without joists are chosen. The floor covering can be anything.

• Balconies and loggias

  What is the best material to make a balcony floor from: 5 practical options

Stages of work

Installation of sheathing

The spacing of the sheathing strips should be no more than 40 cm from each other. Wooden sheathing bars must be treated with antiseptic mixtures to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

When decorating the upper part of the sheathing, special attention is paid to its fastening to the wall. To do this, it is better to use small metal rods, which are fastened with self-tapping screws on one side to the wall, and on the other to a wooden beam.

The thickness of the sheathing should not be less than the insulation layer.

Installing sheathing for lining the balcony with siding

Insulation boards are laid under the frame, and utility lines can be laid (if necessary). If desired, you can make a metal frame for finishing. In this case, the frame is mounted according to a similar principle, but an additional layer of insulation will be required. You can use mineral wool or other more modern insulation.

A layer of protective membrane must be laid on top of the insulation, which is secured with self-tapping screws. If the balcony base is concrete, then the lower part of the sheathing is secured with a special construction adhesive, and it is attached to the rods with clamps.

Sheathing: installation of the lower horizontal chord

Laying concrete beams on the balcony slab. The side beams are nailed to the facade. You can use a tenon joint if you have a woodworking tool.

The bottom beam is glued to the concrete with silicone-based glue, and the balcony is blown from the inside with polyurethane foam. You can attach the timber with dowel nails if you are sure that the edges of the balcony panel are strong enough.

The height of the lower belt of the bars is from 76 mm. 1-2 rows of beams are nailed onto the lower beam to obtain a total height of 80-90 mm.

Installation of the lower horizontal belt

Sheathing: installation of the upper horizontal chord

First, the required number of siding strips is calculated. 1-3 rows of beams are attached to the railing of the fence, so that the upper part is 1 cm higher than the top edge of the cladding. The first beam is fastened with countersunk screws or self-tapping screws through the holes where the cladding was previously attached. The remaining beams are nailed on top.

Decoration of cladding corners

Fittings are usually sold complete with siding covering. To install the corner parts, take a piece of the platband and cut out triangles in the middle of its short side - these are the thrust bearings.

The platband is heated and bent at an angle of 90 degrees to form shelves with short sides. The lower edges of the corner part will be installed on them.

The thrust bearing is attached to the beams of the lower chord with screws at the corner joint.

The corner for decorating the outer corner is placed on its shelves. The thrust bearing is screwed to the bars of the upper and lower chords with screws.

Installing Connectors

Installation of siding strips

A starting strip is installed, which is attached to the lower belt of the grille with the lock down, nailed or screwed. Elongated grooves are made in the parts so that the siding does not stand rigidly, otherwise it may swell or break off the fastening.

Attaching the starting profile

Using a nail or a metal marking pencil, a recess is made in the middle of the groove for a screw, which is driven in with a drill or screwdriver.

Then the screw is turned out a quarter turn to loosen the strip of siding slightly. When the starting bar is secured, the bottom panel is lowered until the lock clicks.

Then it is pulled up until the entire hook enters the lock. Make marks along the top edge of the panel on the fencing bars.

The strip of siding is disengaged, removed, and the second belt of sheathing beams is attached according to the marks made. Holes are made in the fencing bars, and the beams are secured through them with bolts or self-tapping screws.

When the second chord is installed, the siding strip is again lowered along the grooves of the corner pieces until the lock of the starting strip snaps into place. There are already holes for the screws, the fastening is made again in the middle of the mounting groove, the screw is screwed in and turned a quarter turn.

The remaining belts are attached in the same way.

The upper belt is combined with the installation of the platband. To strengthen the structure, vertical bars can be installed.

Installation of siding strips

Selection of lining

Often, finishing a loggia with clapboards is done using wooden panels. However, given that the cost of natural materials is not available in every region, plastic PVC panels are used as an alternative. When choosing, not only price is taken into account, but also the practicality of the material. In this regard, PVC lining takes a leading position. It does not require additional care or treatment and is easy to clean.

Bright colors fade from the sun, so you should choose lighter colors in which the color loss will be less noticeable.

Wooden lining is characterized by capriciousness in operation; it must be coated with special impregnations, varnishes or paints. During operation, you will have to renew the coating, as the old one may crack and lose its attractiveness. But, these problems do not prevent consumers from preferring wood, because its finishes look more cozy.

Related article: Extension balcony on the second floor of a private house

The cheapest ones are panels made of coniferous wood. The resins present in it act as preservatives and antiseptics, so the material is durable. Larch is highly resistant to weather conditions and dense. The excellent structure and beautiful color of the wood will make the finish impressive and durable. If you want to choose a lining made of hardwood, you should proceed from your preferences and wishes, since each type of wood has its own unique color and unique pattern.

Siding

It is necessary to fix the material on the wall in strict compliance with the manufacturer's recommendations: Be sure to take into account the temperature conditions during installation. External finishing of the balcony with siding should be done only at positive temperatures. When exposed to cold, the material may burst during work; The length of the panels should be selected taking into account the fact that its maximum length is achieved when exposed to direct sunlight in the summer. In “construction” language this is called – Compensation for temperature deformation. The average range is 1.2 – 2 cm for vinyl or acrylic siding; Siding is installed using self-tapping screws or nails. In this case, they should be located in the center of the technological holes; The caps should not fit tightly to the panel. There should be a gap of approximately 2 - 3 mm between them.

Advice from the “façade designer”

Failure to comply with these requirements will lead to “blowing” of the siding and possible cracking. Therefore, the external finishing of the balcony with siding should be carried out taking into account all the above points

Molding installation

• various strips and moldings for siding, including starter and finish strips
• “famous” G-trim bar

You need to start installing plastic from the outside with your own hands by attaching the molding. Having measured the height along the completed sheathing, you should cut off 2 outer corners of the same size. Fix one of them so that the outer corner is as correct as possible and secure it to the sheathing. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the technological hole. In this way, the “lowering” of the angle downwards is limited. Subsequent ones are twisted strictly in the center. The second outer corner is fixed similarly to the previous one. In order to close the cut of the panels on the wall side, strips called “J - trim” are installed. Just as with the corners, the height is measured (if the sheathing is installed correctly, then their dimensions will be the same). Fastening is carried out similarly to the corners. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the hole, the subsequent ones into the center.

Next, you need to install “G-trim” on the bottom of the sheathing. Using the correct technology for finishing balconies with siding, you can use a special starting strip, but this is only allowed when the work is carried out from the outside of the loggia (when finishing the first floor or working from scaffolding). When installing panels from a balcony, inserting the panel into the lock of the starting bar will be extremely inconvenient. After cutting the strip to the required length, secure it between the outer corners. Install the same one at the top of the sheathing. It can be replaced with the original finishing strip, but in order to properly fix the panel in it, additional locks will be required, which will need to be cut manually or using a special cutter. Therefore, using “G-trim” is much more practical and convenient.

Siding installation

Facing the balcony with siding begins with finishing the front side.
This is explained by the fact that this part of the surface has the greatest length, trimmings from which can fit on the sides, which have a smaller size. The length of the panel is measured taking into account the temperature conditions at the time of installation. If work is carried out in hot weather, under direct rays of the sun, installation of siding with a free movement step of 0.5 cm is allowed. Cool weather means a larger gap left to increase the panel in the summer. Moreover, these requirements apply to all categories of vinyl, acrylic or basement siding. The first strip is fully installed into the bar, and the upper part is fixed with self-tapping screws. Fastening is carried out in the same way as previously performed: there should be a small gap between the cap. They are twisted into each vertical beam of the sheathing. The remaining surface should be finished similarly to the previously described steps, connecting the top panel to the bottom. The last top panel is cut to the required size and installed in “G-trim” or finishing.

As can be seen from what was written above, in order to independently secure siding on a balcony or loggia, no special knowledge is required and absolutely anyone can cope with it. The work will not take much time, but the result will not be long in coming. The impression of the transformed appearance of your house or apartment walls will not leave any owner indifferent.

Insulating the floor on a balcony: instructions and what mistakes should be avoided

If the apartment has a balcony, then it would probably be unreasonable not to take advantage of the opportunity to slightly expand the usable area of ​​​​the housing. With the right approach to business, you can set up a small workshop there, partially move the kitchen into this room, or even convert the balcony into a small office or resting place. Insulating the floor on a balcony is one of the most important stages in transforming it into a living room.

Insulating the floor on the balcony

This is all the more relevant since the process of insulation and the accompanying re-equipment is not so complicated, so it can be carried out on your own. However, it will be useless without preparatory measures. And the first thing that needs to be done before starting insulation is to strengthen or re-fold the outer wall and install frames.

Preparatory work

• You need to start with an inspection of the balcony floor - it may require certain actions to strengthen it.

This largely depends, of course, on the design of the balcony itself. If it does not have a lower support, then perhaps it makes sense to strengthen the slab with support brackets. However, this process is not always possible - you will have to coordinate with the neighbors living in the apartment located below. And few additional structures on your own territory will please anyone.

Sometimes an additional metal frame is placed on top of the concrete slab, which is securely attached to the wall of the house. In this case, a significant part of the load is removed from the concrete floor slab.

Sometimes the floor on the balcony requires some reinforcement

If the balcony floor slab rests on concrete supports (walls) on both sides, then there should be no further problems.

• An important point is what material the outer wall of the balcony is made of. If it is just a metal lattice covered with some thin sheet material, then most likely you will have to lay out a wall of lightweight foam concrete. We must not forget that this becomes possible only if the floor slab is supported by concrete vertical walls on both sides. In any case, such work should not be carried out without the approval of architectural services - the safety margin of the balcony may simply not be enough.

External wall made of foam concrete
If the external partition is concrete, then there is certainly no need to strengthen it.

• Any further work on insulating the balcony will be pointless if this room is not glazed. This means that the next step should be the installation of balcony frames. What they will be - ordinary wooden ones, or modern metal-plastic ones with double-glazed windows - is up to the owner of the apartment to decide, based on his own preferences and financial capabilities.
• Having installed the balcony frames, you can begin to seal the cracks and cracks - this process is necessary to protect the balcony area from moisture penetration. It is no secret that even at the joints of main slabs there are sometimes quite large gaps - and this is a direct path to the penetration of dampness, soaking of insulating materials, the appearance of mold, and the development of further erosion of building materials.

Sealing wide seams using sealing rollers
If the gaps between the plates are wide enough, then long round rollers of various diameters made of polyethylene foam can be used to seal them. They are pushed tightly into the gaps, and then the joint is sealed from above with sealant.

Expert opinion: Afanasyev E.V.

Chief editor of the Stroyday.ru project. Engineer.

Such insulating rollers are also used to save polyurethane foam. To seal in this way, a small amount of foam is applied into the gap, and then a polyethylene foam bead is immediately laid. When expanding, the polyurethane foam will tightly “seal” all small cracks and at the same time adhere well to the sealing material.

Seal narrow cracks with sealant

If there are small gaps, they are filled with ordinary sealant.

In addition to sealing the cracks at the joints of the balcony, it is necessary to get rid of all cracks and potholes that may be found on the floor and at the bottom of the wall.

Repair work on the floor surface

These defects must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, small hard fragments, and be sure to be covered with a primer for better adhesion. Then, they are filled with sealant or a special cement-adhesive mortar. If the cracks are narrow, then they need to be widened using a drill with a hammer drill or a grinder with a stone wheel - this is necessary for deeper penetration of the repair compound into the crack of the slab or wall.

In any case, the floor must be primed

After the repair compounds have dried, they begin priming the entire surface of the slab and the lower part of the walls (to a height of up to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm), if the walls are all concrete. If the outer wall is made of foam blocks, it should be primed completely, to its entire height.

Waterproofing works

In any case, the next step is to arrange reliable waterproofing over the entire area of ​​the balcony floor and on the lower part of the walls. Some owners, probably in order to save money or time, prefer to do without this preparatory stage. It is necessary to warn them - by refusing waterproofing measures, they significantly increase the risk of moisture penetration under the insulation. This will lead to a sharp loss of thermal insulation qualities - the balcony will become cold. And besides, this is the likely appearance of fungus and mold, which can spread to the walls and floor covering. It’s better not to take risks - waterproofing will not take much time and money!

Waterproofing can be carried out in several ways. There are many options, and below are the most accessible and simplest of them.

Cast waterproofing

Such waterproofing is carried out using various compounds - it can be “liquid glass”, epoxy foam, bitumen perlite and many others. All these compositions are poured over the surface and distributed using a squeegee or roller. Methods for applying cast waterproofing may vary slightly - some compounds are applied hot, while others are applied cold.

Cast waterproofing is usually applied in several layers, and its thickness can reach up to 2 ÷ 3 mm. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Before installing this waterproofing, the floor is thoroughly dried, and sides with a height of 200 ÷ 250 mm made of a special thin waterproofing material or ordinary polyethylene film are installed on the walls.

If such waterproofing is installed using the “hot” method, then the composition is heated to the required temperature, carefully puddles on the floor surface and quickly leveled with a squeegee. Between the layers you can lay a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass, then the waterproofing will be stronger.

When applying the compositions cold, the process is carried out in exactly the same way, but the composition is not preheated. In this case, drying of each layer will take much longer than with the hot method.

Coating waterproofing

Coating or painting waterproofing can be carried out using bitumen mastics, polymer varnishes, “liquid rubber” and other compounds specifically designed for this. This process is quite simple, but such insulation perfectly protects concrete surfaces from dampness.

Application of coating waterproofing

The compositions are applied to a necessarily degreased and primed surface using a brush or broom. After complete hardening, they form a dense film on the concrete slab.

This type of waterproofing can also be applied hot or cold:

— “liquid rubber” made on the basis of artificial rubber is applied cold, as well as epoxy-based waterproofing;

— polymer-bitumen and bitumen compositions are applied hot.

The surface is always coated with these compounds in at least two layers.

Good results are obtained by using polymer-bitumen mastics

This waterproofing fully meets the characteristics necessary to protect the floor. It is important to note that a coating made of pure bitumen will last only five to seven years, since it cannot withstand low temperatures and will certainly crack. Therefore, for balconies it is better to choose waterproofing based on rubber or polymer-bitumen - these compounds are quite elastic and will last much longer.

Film waterproofing

This method is the simplest, since polyethylene film is affordable and easy to install. Select a dense material and lay a solid sheet on the floor surface, lifting it onto the walls 50 ÷ 100 mm above the height of the future floor. Attach the film to the wall using masking tape.

Sometimes a thick polyethylene film is enough for waterproofing

However, there is one “but” - this material can only be used if the insulation or sheathing under it is not attached through the film, that is, the film should not be damaged under any circumstances.

When laying on corners, it must be rolled up very carefully - the film cannot be cut.

Pasted (roll) waterproofing

Adhesive waterproofing materials are produced in rolls or sheets. They are glued to the floor surface and to the walls to a height of 150 ÷ ​​200 cm. Such insulation comes on a bitumen or polymer-bitumen base. Laying this option is not difficult, but you will need to heat the adhesive layer using a gas burner or a hair dryer

Bituminous mastic is first applied to the concrete surface in a layer of 1.5-2 mm, which is then heated, and the waterproofing material is glued to the hot composition.

If necessary, several layers of material are laid, which are coated with mastic. In this case, it is recommended to place the canvases of the second layer perpendicular to the first.

After laying the top, last layer, the edges of the waterproofing material are treated with polymer-based putty.

Another option for waterproofing is roll material, made using modern technologies and having a special adhesive strip.

Rolled waterproofing with self-adhesive backing

When laying overlapping strips of this rolled material, the protective film is first removed from the back of the strips. The canvas is applied with an adhesive layer to the surface and pressed well.

When the base is ready, you can move on to heating work.

Choice of insulation

It is very important to choose the most optimal one from the wide variety of modern insulation materials.

One of the main operational parameters of any thermal insulator is the thermal conductivity coefficient - the lower this value, the better the material in terms of heat preservation in rooms:

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is used for insulation in three different versions:

Expanded clay of large fraction

• Coarse-grained option - for backfilling between joists before covering floors with boards or plywood.

The middle fraction is often used to prepare lightweight expanded clay concrete mortar

• Medium-fraction expanded clay - for the preparation of expanded clay concrete, which can also be laid between the joists, onto which boards or plywood sheets will later be fixed. In addition, after pouring, expanded clay concrete can simply be leveled along the beacons - in this case, it is suitable as a base for laying ceramic tiles.

Fine expanded clay is an ideal material for “dry” screed

• Fine expanded clay is most often used for bulk flooring, which is covered with gypsum fiber boards (GVL).

Prices for expanded clay

Expanded clay

Penoflex

Penoflex is a rolled polyethylene foam. It is produced both with and without a foil surface. Usually, when insulating a balcony, this material is used as an auxiliary material, fixing it to the walls and floor on top of the waterproofing. First, it is attached with double-sided tape, and then the sheathing is laid on top of it.

Balcony room covered with foil foam

The foil surface of the insulation does not allow heat to escape into the walls - it is reflected back towards the room.

Penoflex sheets are fastened together using foil tape, which makes the coating a single sheet.

Gluing the seam between adjacent insulation sheets

Any insulation can be laid on top of this reflective material between the joists - it can be polystyrene foam, mineral wool, ecowool or dry expanded clay.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common and frequently used insulation, as it has all the necessary qualities for use in a balcony - low thermal conductivity, light weight, ease of installation, and most importantly, the environmental friendliness of the material.

Mineral wool is probably the best material for floor insulation

Mineral wool mats, expanding during installation, close all gaps, so they do not need to be additionally sealed with polyurethane foam.

The general definition of “mineral wool” includes: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool. All of them have excellent insulating and soundproofing qualities. The most convenient one to use is probably basalt stone wool - it is harmless to the skin of the hands.

If desired, this insulation can be used in combination with other materials, which will provide an increased thermal insulation effect.

Expanded polystyrene

Everyone probably knows what polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) looks like, since it is quite often used to insulate buildings from the outside and inside.

Floor insulated with polystyrene foam

Insulation is produced with different densities and thicknesses. The lower the density, the higher the insulating effect, but the more fragile and crumbling the material becomes - this must be remembered when choosing it for insulating a balcony.

Polystyrene foam is very light in weight and quite easy to install. It is easily cut with a regular stationery knife, which makes it easier to adjust the slabs to the desired size. Another advantage of this insulation is its low price.

When installing the material, gaps may form between the joists, which must be sealed with polyurethane foam, otherwise the insulation effect will be significantly reduced.

The use of expanded polystyrene, as a rule, will require additional sealing of joints with polyurethane foam

Polystyrene foam can also be used in combination with any of the existing insulation materials.

Vapor barrier

If the insulation was carried out with mineral wool, then it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier film on top of it, which will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation, but will promote its evaporation from the inside, that is, it will allow the material to “breathe.”

Approximate structure of an insulated balcony

The film is stretched and attached to the joists using staples driven in with a stapler. In the diagram below, the vapor barrier film is shown as No. 5.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Insulating the floor on the balcony

Today, there are a considerable number of insulation methods for turning a cold balcony into even a small but cozy room.

Insulation of floors with lathing

The insulation process using various insulation materials can follow the same principle. For example, when using expanded clay, polystyrene foam or mineral wool, it is recommended to make lathing from bars or boards with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm.

First you need to figure out how to properly install, how to fasten and how to raise the sheathing elements to the required height.

• The first step is to determine the height to which the floor will be raised, minus the thickness of the covering (floorboards or plywood). Usually the floor is raised to the height of the threshold of the doorway.
• Next, you need to decide how the floor will be raised to the desired height:

- due to the width of the boards;

— by installing the bars in two layers;

— the bars will be raised to the level of the threshold using special metal or plastic holders-stands, or wooden pads.

• Having chosen one of the installation methods, you need to prepare all the elements of the sheathing by marking and sawing boards or bars.
• Then, the parts must be treated with an antiseptic composition, which will protect the wood from biological decomposition and the influence of moisture.
• After the wood has been prepared and dried, you can proceed to installing the sheathing on the floor.

Option #1

Special U-shaped elements made of bent metal strip are used as racks. A beam raised to the required height is fixed into the gap between the two shelves - holes for self-tapping screws are provided for this.

Installation of logs on U-shaped metal racks

Such racks are installed at a distance from each other of 500 ÷ 600 mm, first along the walls, and then one or two more rows, depending on the width of the balcony, in the center. The holders are attached to the concrete floor using anchors.

Then, cuts are made in the insulation mats (if mineral wool is used) at the same distance as the shelves of the holder are separated, and then they are “put on” the metal element and pressed to the floor. When the insulation is put on all the racks, the remaining open floor between the rows is also tightly filled with insulation material.

If necessary, the second layer is laid in the same way.

Next, the bars are installed in the holders, and then screwed on both sides through the holes with self-tapping screws. It is very important to align the bars exactly so that the raised floor is perfectly horizontal.

Option No. 2

Another option for raising the sheathing to the desired height is studs. They are screwed into inserts installed in concrete floors. The convenience of this method of fastening is that the protruding upper part has a thread, with the help of which the logs can be adjusted and installed to the desired height. They are also set according to the building level. The excess part of the pin that remains on top is cut off using a grinder.

Using studs as adjustable supports for joists

In this option, the insulation is easy to install up to the top level of the joists and after installing the studs.

Instead of metal studs, PVC stands are often used, which are screwed into holes in the joists. However, to use such stands, you need to use fairly wide bars for making logs, since plastic stands have a much larger diameter than studs.

Plastic threaded posts

The tubes of such stands have a thread on the outside, with which they are screwed in and adjusted in the bars.

Option No. 3

If you don’t have the desire or ability to tinker with the stands described above, you can use a structure made independently from bars. However, in order for the floor raised using this lathing to be level, you need to have a perfectly horizontal surface of the concrete slab, since it will not be possible to adjust its individual elements. The fastening of the bars in this design is carried out using metal corners. In addition, the bars running along the walls are secured to them with anchors.

Prefabricated frame made of beams

If the floor is not very level, you can level the floor along the top of the sheathing. To do this, you need to beat off a perfectly straight line on the wall and fasten the side bars along it. If one of the legs on which the sheathing rests rises above the surface of the floor slab, then you need to place a piece of plywood or thin board under it.

Option No. 4

If you do not plan to raise the floor too high, then a sheathing of two layers of bars laid perpendicular to each other will do. The first row is attached to the prepared surface, and the second is attached to the bars of the first row.

Two rows of perpendicular beams

The first row of logs is often glued to the surface of a concrete slab using polyurethane foam. It is recommended to attach the second row to the first only after laying the insulation between the guides,

Option No. 5

The easiest way to arrange a lathing to raise the floor on a balcony is to use wide, even and thick boards, which are attached to the balcony slab, as well as to each other, using a metal corner. The main thing is to find suitable dried material and level the finished sheathing.

When installing the structure, the boards are installed on the edge with a distance from the walls of 50 ÷ 70 mm. Insulation must be installed in these gaps - this is necessary to create a warm layer between the walls and the floor sheathing.

Between the guides of the sheathing, no matter how it is arranged, insulating material is poured or laid. If expanded polystyrene is used, the remaining cracks are either sealed with polyurethane foam or tightly sealed with mineral wool.

After the insulation between the joists is completely laid, it is recommended to lay a layer of film on top - it will not allow dust or small particles of insulation material to penetrate into the room from below. After this, you can move on to laying the subfloor or straight away to “clean” floorboards.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Floor insulation without lathing

This type of floor insulation includes a loose floor made using the “dry screed” technology. Recently, this approach has been increasingly used for insulating floors in private houses and apartments. It is also quite suitable for balcony conditions.

When deciding to install a loose floor, a waterproofing layer made of polyethylene will be mandatory. It can be used in addition to another type of waterproofing.

A layer of film is required for backfilling dry insulation

The film around the entire perimeter of the balcony is secured to the wall with double-sided tape, and then a damper tape is glued, which compensates for all fluctuations in the size of the floor covering due to temperature changes, when the material can expand.

In addition, you need to install beacons on the walls, according to which the bulk material will be equalized using the rule.

After the base for the “dry screed” has been laid, you can pour out the expanded clay in parts just above the level of the installed beacons.

Leveling the surface when filling with “dry screed”

Then, the poured mass is leveled, and special gypsum fiber panels are laid on top of it, on which there are special locking parts for mutual connection.

To fix them together, the joints of the plates are glued with “liquid nails” or other polymer adhesives.

GVL flooring over a layer of expanded clay

On top of such an insulated floor you can put almost any finishing coating that would be appropriate on the balcony.

Finish floor covering

The flooring laid on the insulated floor of the balcony will become another layer that will help maintain a comfortable temperature in the room.

The covering of the insulated floor can be chosen according to the taste of the apartment owner, but it is better to use a material that can create a comfortable feeling when walking on it even without shoes.

Laying wooden floorboards on the balcony

A wooden floor will be especially effective, since wood has natural warmth due to its multi-layered structure. Therefore, this coating is most often found on insulated balconies.

Plywood, which after laying is covered with carpet, laminate or warm linoleum, is also suitable for covering.

Video: floor insulation work on a balcony or loggia

It is quite possible to carry out work on insulating the floor on the balcony yourself. Slowly, following the step-by-step guide within the chosen option, you can, even if you have no experience, cope with this work in 3 ÷ 5 days.

Preparing the balcony for finishing with plastic panels

PVC panels have long been considered a popular finishing product. This is due to their advantages, such as:

• good level of additional insulation;
• resistance to moisture and temperature changes;
• ease of care;
• excellent appearance.

Material selection

Types of plastic panels for finishing

When pre-selecting a material, you should not focus on the cheapest PVC panels. They will not have all the properties listed above. You need to start considering materials from the middle price category. They have a very wide range of colors; some models can have almost two hundred different shades.

To understand that plastic panels are truly of high quality, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

• a large number of stiffeners;
• high-quality material is uniform in color and has no foreign inclusions;
• the design of the front surface should not have unpainted areas;
• during the process of joining the panels to each other, a characteristic click should be heard;
• no deformation on the front panel.

If these conditions are fully met, we can say that the selected panels belong to a truly high-quality product. This material should be used when finishing balconies or loggias.

Options for finishing loggias and balconies.

Plastic panels

The use of PVC panels is a fairly common option that allows you to save money. Despite their low cost, the panels are very resistant to moisture, easy to install and unpretentious to use. A huge range of panels of different colors allows you to use the most unexpected solutions when decorating the walls on the loggia. There are panels that imitate natural materials, such as wood or stone, and there are also options made in the form of brick and ceramic tiles.

Plastic panels

All this diversity makes decorative panels made of polyvinyl chloride a very popular material. Plastic panels are assembled using a simple but reliable tongue-and-groove system. Cladding a loggia with your own hands using panels involves fixing them to the sheathing using self-tapping screws and snapping factory locks. Plastic panels were originally developed for decorating rooms inside the house, which imposes some restrictions on their use. It is worth using such material for decorating balconies or loggias only after they have been insulated. This is due to the fact that at significant subzero temperatures the panels can become deformed, which will have a sad effect on the interior of the entire loggia. This is especially true for panels whose width is 200-250 millimeters. Experts recommend using panels whose width does not exceed 10 cm for finishing loggias and balconies. Such products differ from larger analogues in their resistance not only to cold weather, but also to mechanical stress.

Lining

In modern cities, lining for finishing a balcony or loggia is a more than reasonable choice. Natural wood with its unique texture can give a person a boost of energy for the whole day. The combination of strictly verified geometric lines and the unpredictability of the natural pattern on the surface of the lining allows you to create a cozy atmosphere on the loggia, which you rarely see in the “stone” jungle. Depending on the climatic conditions of your area, options for wooden panels are also selected. For example, if your area is characterized by high humidity, then it is better to use eurolining to decorate the balcony. This is due to the fact that a special method of fastening wooden panels to each other when wet will prevent them from falling apart. On the front side of each plank, two openings are structurally provided for draining excess condensate. For the design of loggias, lining is used, the boards of which are rectangular in shape and the chamfers are rounded. Manufacturers of lining, as a rule, do not treat their products with protective agents. Therefore, during operation, wooden panels should not be washed or cleaned with household chemicals or abrasives. Otherwise, the lining may lose its attractive appearance. However, the use of lining for interior decoration involves treating it with an antiseptic and protective agents that prevent the appearance of signs of rot, mold or fungal diseases.

Drywall

This material has long been used for interior decoration of apartments; it is not surprising that it is also used for finishing loggias. Any person who knows how to use hand tools can work with drywall. In addition, finishing with plasterboard allows you to use almost any finishing materials in the future: wallpaper, decorative plaster or paint. Finishing balconies using plasterboard sheets has the following advantages:

• installation of drywall does not require special preparation;
• affordability;
• increased sound insulation qualities;
• the material is safe for human health and the environment;
• Thanks to its properties, plasterboard allows you to create unusual interior details.

Of course, there are no ideal materials, and plasterboard, in addition to its increased fragility, is also water-resistant. However, manufacturers successfully cope with the latter property by producing material with high moisture-proof qualities.

Decorative plaster

Decorating rooms using decorative plaster is gaining popularity; for finishing a loggia this is one of the most relevant and original options. Walls decorated in this way look very interesting and organic. This finishing material is also supported by its price. Decorative plaster is affordable for people with average incomes.

Decorative plaster

Working with it also does not require special skills. Taken together, these properties have made decorative plaster one of the most popular materials for finishing the inside of loggias. In construction stores, decorative plaster is sold in the form of a ready-made solution (in plastic buckets) or in the form of dry mixtures. There are several types of such plaster:

• structural, this type is capable of giving the treated surface the appearance of wood, stone or snakeskin. It consists of particles of quartz and mica;
• textured, for its production such materials as crushed marble, granites, cotton and linen fibers were used. This allows you to imitate wall decoration with wood, stone, etc.;
• flock plaster, it contains acrylic, and it can create an imitation of a silk-covered surface. Such plaster will require the application of a protective varnish coating;
• Venetian, the most expensive type of decorative plaster. It is based on ingredients such as acrylic, dyes, and stone chips. It is difficult to work with, but the final result is worth the effort. Venetian plaster can give the balcony walls the appearance of marble or paper.

Decorative plaster is flexible, so with its help it will not be difficult to depict a special design on the wall.

To do this, you can use a trowel, simply spreading the mixture over the surface to be decorated, or using a sponge, construction float, cellophane, etc. The use of decorative plaster guarantees the creation of an original interior. The patterns on the walls will be unique to your balcony. In addition, walls plastered with this material are resistant to mechanical damage. In extreme cases, correcting a possible defect will not be so difficult, because this coating is easy to apply. Decorative plaster is very unpretentious to use; its appearance can be refreshed with regular wet cleaning. In addition, this type of plaster mixture does not harm the environment and human health. However, despite all its advantages, there are also some disadvantages. The use of decorative plaster involves preliminary preparation of the walls: cleaning, leveling and priming. However, you can also install sheets of drywall.

Important! Venetian plaster requires certain skills to apply it, and given its cost, it makes sense to turn to specialists to work with it.