Bimetal: how to connect heating radiators together into one battery

How to add sections

After you have experimentally determined that the reason for the cool temperature in the house is not a clogged radiator, you should find a store near your home (so that you don’t have to travel far away and thereby waste your time) that sells heating equipment. You need to buy the same sections that your radiator is equipped with - made of cast iron, aluminum, or bimetallic.

It should not happen that you select inappropriate sections - because of such an error, you simply will not be able to add them, that is, the money spent will be thrown away, so be careful. The procedure for increasing sections is carried out in the same sequence of actions for all types of heating radiators.

To join sections, you need a connecting nut - nipple

Let's proceed directly to increasing the number of sections. The first step is to unscrew the fitting using a radiator wrench on the side to which you plan to add one or more elements. After you have unscrewed the fitting, a nipple (connecting nut) is placed in the area where the sections join. The following important feature must be taken into account: the threads at different ends of the nipple are different, and in order to correctly install new sections you must follow the following rules:

The right side of the nipple should be directed towards the direction where the connection to the new element will be made;
Accordingly, the left one is towards the already present sections of the heating radiator.

In order to prevent further leakage of the battery, you should put intersection gaskets on the nipple (they can be rubber, paranitic, or gel)

At the same time, they must be put on carefully and carefully - this will guarantee that the gasket will be positioned as evenly as possible, without unwanted distortions. Next you need to tighten the thread

This action should also be carried out without sudden movements, in a leisurely rhythm, and carefully. If you want to build a high-quality heating radiator, then there can be no rush.

To prevent leakage, an intersection gasket is required

Damage to metal threads is extremely undesirable - this may result in not the most harmless problems, the solution of which will require you to additionally spend your own time and financial resources.

The enlarged radiator must be placed back on the bracket and the connection to the central heating pipe restored. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a wrench of the appropriate diameter and tow, which is necessary for wrapping the pipe threads when screwing the radiator.

It’s not difficult to add sections to a heating radiator; you don’t need to work in a team of heating installers for 10 years. But this process cannot be done without a serious approach, the availability of basic tools and the removal of your personal time. However, you can resort to the second option for solving the problem of insufficient heating of the room - becoming a client of a company providing such services, whose employees will do everything themselves, quickly and efficiently.

Question No. 18 - Is it possible to enlarge a bimetallic radiator?

This will serve as a more reliable connection and prevent further leakage.

After this, the nipple thread is tightened extremely carefully and slowly. The main thing is not to overtighten or break the thread. The finished radiator is connected to the heating system. At the connection point, a heel or modern materials replacing it should be used for better waterproofing.

Adviсe

If you decide to add a significant number of sections, then you should also take care of adding brackets so that the increased weight of the battery does not break the existing ones and cause an accident.
Please be aware that not all brands of aluminum radiators can be attached to existing ones. Those that are made by extrusion are not suitable for extending batteries, since all the parts in such radiators are not dismountable. In the best case, you can mount a separate aluminum battery as an independent heating device.
Bimetallic radiators can be easily expanded, since they are manufactured in sections.
When connecting the newly assembled battery to the main line, the length of the bed will need to be reduced by cutting it to the required size with a grinder, as a result of which there will be no thread left at the end of the pipeline. Therefore, you should stock up on the necessary connection elements, or cut the thread yourself.

As you can see, adding sections to a heating radiator is not difficult, and any man, with the desire and the slightest skill in handling plumbing tools, can without any problems increase the power of the battery so that his family does not suffer from the cold in the winter. But if this option does not suit you, you can always turn to specialists, but here you will have to pay a certain amount of money.

Installation of aluminum heating radiators

Assembling and adjusting a heating system is a responsible task, and it is best handled by professionals. But if you wish, you can install aluminum radiators yourself.

First you need to assemble the device:

Screw in the supplied plugs and plugs.
Assemble thermostats and connect shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of the device.
Check the nipples and secure the air valves.

A diagram for assembling and disassembling the device is included in the kit. It is better if the assembly is carried out by a specialist, then there will be a guarantee that all the taps are installed correctly. It is not allowed to clean aluminum with abrasives when installing adapters or extending sections - coolant may leak.

Battery connection diagrams

The device can be connected in several ways:

Diagonal. Experts consider it the most energy efficient. The supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower pipe, but on the opposite side of the radiator. With this scheme, the battery releases into space the maximum thermal energy received from hot water. The disadvantage of this method is that the pipes running on top do not fit well into the design of the room.

Side. The pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the side fitting (right or left), the return – to the parallel bottom one. If the pipes are installed in the reverse order, the heat output of the device will drop by 50%. This scheme for connecting aluminum heating radiators does not work effectively if the sections have a non-standard size or their number exceeds 15.

From a design point of view, aluminum radiators with bottom connections win. With such a layout, the pipes are not visible; they are hidden in the floor or wall. The batteries are connected to the system through pipes located at the bottom of the devices. Typically, bottom-connected radiators are installed on floor brackets. The battery is attached to the wall with one hook, only to maintain balance.

Connection diagrams for heating radiators made of aluminum

Important! Aluminum batteries have standard parameters for the pipes, so there is no need to buy any additional adapters from the radiator to the pipes. The device is also supplied with a Mayevsky valve designed for bleeding air

Connection and commissioning

Before installing aluminum appliances, the autonomous system is washed with water. Alkaline solutions cannot be used.

Important! Aluminum is easily dented and scratched by tools, so it is better to mount the battery in the original plastic packaging. Once connected, the polyethylene can be removed

In an effort to connect aluminum heating radiators without high costs, some homeowners use blind, non-separable connections between pipes and radiators. But heating a home in the northern hemisphere is not something you skimp on. It would be wiser to install “American” ones - quick-release threaded units, when the pipes are connected and disconnected using one union nut.

The procedure for connecting radiators to the heating system:

Make sure that there is no water in the system or that it is shut off at the installation points.
Hang the radiator and connect it to the pipeline using fittings.
Seal all threaded connections using plumber's tape. 4-5 turns in the thread direction are enough.
Carry out a pressure test of the system.

Aluminum battery connected to the heating system

You can install an aluminum heating radiator yourself, but it would be wiser to entrust the job to specialists who have all the necessary permits to carry out such work. The slightest inaccuracy in installation can lead to leaks and inefficient functioning of the heating system.

Let's get started

Shut off water access to the battery using shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet. Even if there is no water in the main. If you have single-pipe heating and there is no bypass in front of the battery, then you can shut off the battery only in emergency situations. Otherwise, you will leave all your neighbors without heat!
Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the radiator to the heating pipes. If there is water, place a small container to collect it. Start unscrewing the bottom fastener. If the water is too hot, give the thermopile time to cool to avoid getting burned. Drain the water, then unscrew the top fastener.
Remove the radiator from the wall mounts. It will be more convenient to add sections when it lies horizontally. This will help to accurately fit them together.
Unscrew the blind plugs on one side of the thermopile with an adjustable wrench. The radiator key will be inserted through these through holes.
Take the nipples and put gaskets on them, closer to the center. The nipple has a right-hand thread up to the middle, and then a left-hand thread. Due to this, it is simultaneously twisted into both sections. Gaskets allow you to make the joint airtight. Paronite gaskets are more resistant to high temperatures and have a long service life. Sometimes rubber ones are used.
Install nipples between the sections to be connected. Try baiting them by hand, making one or one and a half turns. If the radiators are new, this will be very easy.
Take the radiator key and insert it to the required depth through the side hole of the section. Make two turns of one nipple, then make the same amount at the bottom of the battery. Gradually turn the nipples by the same number of turns until the sections are completely connected. It is important to make a small number of turns to avoid distortion between sections and to achieve an even fit.
Place the side plugs on the outermost section of the thermopile.
Mount the radiator on the wall and connect it back to the mains.
When adding more than two sections, you may have to install another loop to mount the battery on the wall.

It's time to check the quality of your work. If taps are installed in front of the radiator, you can open them. Water will fill the battery and you can inspect the connections. If there is no leakage, then you did an excellent job!

Installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands, you can read about it at the link.

Technique for performing work on connecting radiator sections

Extending radiators is a useful skill for a home handyman. Knowing how to join sections, it will not be difficult to provide your own microclimate in each room.

Before connecting two radiators, a power calculation is made. The formula is simple - 10 m2 requires 1 kW of thermal power. The section's performance is indicated in the data sheet. This data will be useful for calculations. Then you need to buy the required number of elements, find tools and assemble the heating device.

Tools and components for work

To assemble a heating radiator with your own hands, you will need:

wrench or adjustable wrench;
radiator key;
plugs with right and left threads – 1 pc.;
nipples;
paronite gaskets;
intersection gaskets made of durable, flexible material;
battery sections;
sandpaper of fraction No. 120.

Thread gloves are useful for protection. It is more convenient to install the batteries with two people; an assistant will not hurt.

Step-by-step battery expansion process

Do-it-yourself heating radiator assembly can be done at any time. If the heating season has already begun, the network must be shut off, the coolant must be drained from the circuit and the heating device must be dismantled.

How to connect the battery:

Place the dismantled radiator on a horizontal plane. To avoid scratching the coating of the battery and table (floor), lay a cloth. Remove all additional elements - taps, temperature sensors. To wash the battery, take it into the bathtub, open the plugs and rinse with a stream of water.

Check the integrity of threaded connections and ends of the heating device. If there are deposits, sand the joints. Place the battery back on a flat, horizontal surface. The area is chosen to be level to ensure the tightness of the joint. The slightest curvature of the position will lead to an uneven joint. For seals, only paronite gaskets are chosen. This is a durable, flexible material that can withstand heat without loss of quality. Check the quality of nipple threads

Smooth and uniform cutting without chipping is the key to a strong joint. Move the sections together, placing spacers between them. Carefully begin to tighten the nipple. The part has a left-hand thread on one side and a right-hand thread on the other

This means that when rotating, both sections are attracted. It is more convenient to carry out work with a special radiator wrench. The tool may come complete with a battery, but is also sold separately.

Grab the sections a little, check the evenness of the joints and tighten until tight. The number of turns of the nipple turns on each section must be equal.

Knowing how to increase the heating battery, it is not difficult to assemble a system with the required power indicators. After building up the sections, the radiator is checked for leaks.

For a household check you will need:

a piece of pipe with a cross section of 15 mm;
automobile pump with pressure gauge;
tire nipple.

Now solder the nipple to the pipe and insert it into the radiator. This design is needed for air pressure testing. Install a plug on one of the radiator inlets. Connect a car pump with a pressure gauge to the nipple. Pump air at a pressure of 1 bar. If the tightness of the joints is broken, a whistle of escaping air will appear. You need to find a leak, tighten the nipple or change the gasket. Carry out the pressure test again. If there are no leaks, install the radiator into the network.

Pressure testing with water is carried out in the same order. Instead of air, colored water is pumped in. Let the device stand for 5 hours and inspect for leaks. If there is a leaky joint, water will leak out. Tighten the joints, check again, install the battery into the system.

An extended battery increases in weight. Before installing the radiator, it is advisable to strengthen the fasteners and screw in additional brackets. This will protect the device from collapse, because the battery will be even heavier with coolant. The device is integrated into the network at a selected location, taking into account the increase in battery length.

How to increase heating batteries?

If you use cast iron radiators, you should wait until the end of the heating season before starting the process of building them up. This is due to the fact that adding sections will require complete disassembly of the heating device. In winter, the entire heating system will need to be shut off. If you live in an apartment building, then it is hardly possible to leave your neighbors without heat for several hours.

That is why it is better to leave this problem until the warm season begins. In order to build up a cast iron battery you will need the following tools :

radiator wrench (can be adjustable);
the required number of nipples for cast iron batteries (their number directly depends on the number of sections);
gaskets for installation between radiator sections;
side plugs with special gaskets.

Before adding new sections to a cast iron battery, it must be dismantled and removed. First, you need to drain all the water from the heating system.

If you have been using these batteries for a long time, you may notice a build-up of dirt and rust between its sections, which will need to be removed first. The cleaning process can be carried out using emery or metal brushes.

Tip: Before building up a cast iron radiator, you should place it on the floor along with additional sections.

Dismantled heating battery

Do not forget about the position of the thread when attaching the nipple. You need to twist it from the left, and it is better to attach the battery to one turn on the left. A similar operation should be performed on the right.

As for the intersectional gasket, it should be located strictly in the middle of the nipple. Each battery section must fit snugly against the nipple. Next, you need to insert the radiator key into the battery, and with an adjustable key, screw the nipple into the section by 3 - 4 turns.

This procedure should be repeated until each section is completely adjacent to each other.

After this, you need to install the side plugs for the cast iron batteries. In addition, paronite gaskets should be placed in front of them. Before installing them, you need to remove rust from the surface using sandpaper.

Using a pipe wrench, tighten the radiator caps tightly.

Heating radiator assembly

Connection diagrams

The most fault-tolerant scheme for connecting heating radiators in a private house with a bottling and boiler is a single-pipe Leningradka. Heating appliances are connected parallel to the bottling line, which is laid around the perimeter of the room.

Somewhat cheaper to install, but noticeably more problematic to operate, is a circuit that uses a series connection of batteries. Suffice it to say that their independent adjustment in this case is impossible.

A variant of a single-pipe circuit with a serial connection.

Finally, a two-pipe system involves connecting each radiator as a jumper between the supply and return lines. It is inconvenient in that it requires the already mentioned balancing - limiting the passage of the heating devices closest to the boiler.

What are the possible diagrams for connecting heating radiators to the supply line?

One-sided. The connections are connected to the upper and lower radiator plugs on the right or left. It is compact, but makes the heating of the device uneven: the last sections will always be colder than the first.
From bottom to bottom. In this case, the battery must be equipped with an air vent. The advantages of the solution are that the radiator with this connection does not require flushing and always heats along its entire length.
Diagonal. Heating of sections is even more uniform; however, the lower corner of the device with a blind plug will gradually silt up.

Connection options for liners.

Bimetallic heating radiators

Comparative characteristics with other types of batteries

The photo shows a tall narrow device.

First you need to understand what kind of heating radiators there are, and how they differ from each other.

We list the main types:

Cast iron batteries are one of the most common types, found in most Soviet-era apartments. It is a system of connected cast iron sections with fairly thick walls and a large mass. It is characterized by high strength and durability, but has low efficiency and heat transfer, and one can also note high thermal inertia;
Steel tubular registers are a system of pipes of sufficiently large diameter, or one pipe in the form of an S-shaped bend (for example, a heated towel rail). This type of device is usually installed in large premises - concert halls, cinemas, sports complexes, supermarkets. They are distinguished by high power and large volume of coolant;
Steel heating panels. They are welded profiled steel plates, inside of which there are channels for coolant circulation. They have a fairly low resistance to water hammer and low strength, are susceptible to corrosion and are not very reliable;
Aluminum radiators are a more modern type of battery, which is characterized by increased heat transfer and efficiency, low coolant volume and low weight of the device. Due to low thermal inertia, they lend themselves well to automatic and manual temperature control. They are demanding on the quality of the coolant and its acidity, have average strength and service life;
Copper batteries are a system of tubes with plate fins. They are distinguished by the highest heat transfer and efficiency, high strength and resistance to water hammer, lack of corrosion and long service life. The only drawback of copper units is the high price;
Bimetallic radiators resemble aluminum devices in appearance and design, with the difference that the inner walls of the channels are made of steel or copper. In this way, it is possible to increase the efficiency and heat transfer of the battery, but maintain its strength and durability.

A cast iron battery familiar to many.

To understand the main distinguishing feature of a bimetallic device, you should better understand its design. The main task of any liquid-cooled battery is to ensure maximum heat transfer from the coolant to the environment, while at the same time having a sufficient supply of mechanical and corrosion strength for long-term efficient operation.

The degree of heat transfer directly depends on the thermal conductivity of the metal and the thickness of the walls. The most thermally conductive materials are aluminum and copper, so the most efficient devices are made of non-ferrous metals.

The most efficient radiators are made from copper.

On the other hand, steel and ferrous metals demonstrate the highest strength. But they are susceptible to corrosion and have low thermal conductivity. At the same time, steel is much cheaper than copper and aluminum, which is also an advantage.

The design of the bimetallic radiator is distinguished by the fact that the internal walls of the channels are made of durable anti-corrosion steel or pure copper, and the external walls and fins are made of lightweight and heat-conducting aluminum. This solution made it possible to combine the advantages of steel and non-ferrous metals in one device.

The inner surface of the channels and manifold is made of steel.

Important! Bimetallic radiators combine the advantages of products made of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, becoming the most progressive and modern type of heating devices

Advantages and disadvantages

The convector fits perfectly into a modern interior.

Let's consider the positive and negative aspects of using units with combined metals in their composition. Let's start with the advantages:

Radiator selection

You should start by choosing a radiator, and the main criterion for choosing will be the operating pressure for which the radiator is designed. For a private house with its own heating system, a radiator with a working pressure of 6-7 atmospheres will be sufficient, but if you need to connect a radiator to the central heating system of an apartment building, it must withstand a pressure of at least 10 atmospheres.

Currently, the consumer is offered two options for aluminum radiators - standard or European and reinforced. The latter can operate under pressure reaching 12 atmospheres. When connecting to a central heating system, you must choose among reinforced radiators.

The number of sections plays a big role

Next you need to decide on the required number of sections. To do this, we determine the amount of heat. Necessary for heating the room and divide by the heat transfer of one section of the selected radiator.

The amount of heat required for a standard room can be taken equal to 1 kW per 10 m 2 of room area. For non-standard premises and more accurate calculations, we will use a ready-made table:

Radiator power table

It should be remembered that the connection diagram for a battery of more than 12 sections must be double-sided, diagonal or saddle. With a one-sided battery connection scheme consisting of a large number of sections, a “pocket” of cold water will form on the side of the radiator opposite the pipes. “Extra” sections simply won’t work; we end up with harmful ballast.

Using forced injection, the battery can be expanded to 24 sections, even with one-way supply, but the radiator in this case must be reinforced.

It should be remembered that coolant must be supplied to reinforced radiators under high pressure only through metal pipes. Metal-plastic may not withstand such pressure, and the consequences will be the most dire.

It should also be taken into account that the heat transfer of the radiator indicated in the documentation is relevant only for one-sided or diagonal supply of coolant to the radiator. When using bottom feed, feel free to subtract 10-15 percent.

If the heating system is installed in a private house, then it is possible to choose the general heating arrangement yourself - one- or two-pipe.

Placement of heating devices

It is of great importance not only how to connect heating radiators to each other, but also their correct location in relation to building structures. Traditionally, heating devices are installed along the walls of rooms and locally under windows to reduce the penetration of cold air flows in the most vulnerable place.

There are clear instructions for this in SNiP for installing heating equipment:

The gap between the floor and the bottom of the battery should not be less than 120 mm. When the distance from the device to the floor decreases, the distribution of heat flow will be uneven;
The distance from the back surface to the wall on which the radiator is mounted should be from 30 to 50 mm, otherwise its heat transfer will be impaired;
The gap from the top edge of the heating device to the window sill is maintained within 100-120 mm (no less). Otherwise, the movement of thermal masses may be hampered, which will weaken the heating of the room.

Bimetallic heating devices

To understand how to connect bimetallic radiators to each other, you need to know that almost all of them are suitable for any type of connection:

They have four possible connection points - two upper and two lower;
Equipped with plugs and a Mayevsky valve, through which you can bleed the air collected in the heating system;

A diagonal connection is considered the most effective for bimetallic batteries, especially if we are talking about a large number of sections in the device. Although it is not advisable to use very wide batteries equipped with ten or more sections.

Advice! It is better to think about the question of how to properly connect two heating radiators of 7-8 sections instead of one device of 14 or 16 sections. It will be much easier to install and more convenient to maintain.

Another question - how to connect sections of a bimetallic radiator may arise when rearranging sections of a heating device in various situations:

The place where you plan to install the heating device is also important.

In the process of creating new heating networks;
If it is necessary to replace a failed radiator with a new one - bimetallic;
In case of underheating, you can expand the battery by connecting additional sections.

Aluminum batteries

Interesting! By and large, it should be noted that a diagonal connection is an excellent option for any type of battery. You don’t know how to connect aluminum radiators to each other. connect diagonally, you won’t go wrong!

For closed-type heating networks in private homes, it is advisable to install aluminum batteries, since it is easier to ensure proper water treatment before filling the system. And their cost is much lower than that of bimetallic devices.

Of course, over time, moving through the radiators, the coolant cools

Of course, you will have to try hard before connecting the sections of the aluminum radiator for regrouping.

Advice! Do not rush to remove the factory packaging (film) from installed heating devices until finishing work in the room is completed. This will protect the radiator coating from damage and contamination.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=y9a35JHa0TM

The work process itself does not take much time, you do not need any special skills or expensive equipment, you can purchase all the necessary tools at any hardware store. And don’t forget, the connection will serve you for a long time and without hassle only if you used high-quality materials in your work and followed all the rules for installing the heating system.

We are talking about exactly what is indicated in this figure.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Calculation of the number of radiators

How much will need to be added? Here you need to use your brain a little and try to calculate the required number of sections, based on the type of radiators, the volume of the heated room, the number of windows, their condition, wall material, location of the room and other factors. Let's consider the option with cast iron batteries, the power of one section of which is on average 100 -150 watts.

The power of other types of radiators is usually indicated in the technical data sheet for the product.

We make a calculation for a one-room apartment with an area of 18 square meters. m, where the ceiling height is standard and equal to 2.5 m. The windows are plastic double-glazed windows, the apartment is corner, and is located in the average climate of our country. The radiators in the apartment are connected through the overhead wiring.

18(area) x 100=1800 W. The correction factor for the ceiling height in our case is 0.8, since 3 m is taken as the basis. 1800 x 0.8 = 1440 W. Taking into account the angular placement of the apartment, the correction factor will be equal to 1.8. We multiply the resulting power of 1440 by 1.8 and get power = 2592 kW. This value should be multiplied again by the factor for the presence of windows. In our case, 2 windows and K = 1.8. 2592 x1.8, we get the next power value equal to 4565 kW. Plastic double-glazed windows give K = 0.8, the final power is 4565x0.8 = 3732 sq. Now you can determine how many cast iron sections are needed to keep the apartment warm. 3732: 150=24.8 i.e. 25 sections.

Naturally, such a calculation is very approximate. The number of sections may vary depending on the temperature of the coolant supplied to the centralized heating network, on how insulated the doors, ceiling and walls and their material are, on the area of the windows, on the presence of enclosing screens on radiators, curtains and other things. But if your apartment has a significantly smaller number of sections, then you should add them in any case.

Installation of new radiator sections

It should be noted right away that you need to add sections of exactly the same type and brand that are already in your apartment. Otherwise, the whole idea may fail due to a mismatch between the cross-sectional dimensions of the inlet and outlet openings, the height dimensions, and the material of manufacture.

The first thing you need to do is turn off the water and drain the water that flows out when you unscrew the cap. After this, connecting elements (nipples) in the form of a nut are applied to the joining place and on top are intersectional gaskets made of rubber, paronite or a special gel.

The nipple has a thread on both sides, and on each side it is cut in different directions. The nipple is inserted with the right side in the case when adding new sections is done on the left side. This means that the left side of the nipple must be inserted into the hole of the existing battery. The gaskets must be applied very carefully and, one might say, gently. This will serve as a more reliable connection and prevent further leakage.

Adviсe

If you decide to add a significant number of sections, then you should also take care of adding brackets so that the increased weight of the battery does not break the existing ones and cause an accident.
Please be aware that not all brands of aluminum radiators can be attached to existing ones. Those that are made by extrusion are not suitable for extending batteries, since all the parts in such radiators are not dismountable. In the best case, you can mount a separate aluminum battery as an independent heating device.
Bimetallic radiators can be easily expanded, since they are manufactured in sections.
When connecting the newly assembled battery to the main line, the length of the bed will need to be reduced by cutting it to the required size with a grinder, as a result of which there will be no thread left at the end of the pipeline. Therefore, you should stock up on the necessary connection elements, or cut the thread yourself.

Types of systems

Single-pipe system - one pipeline is installed through which the heat source is supplied and the waste liquid is discharged. It is better to use in cases where a small number of batteries are installed. This is usually done when heating apartments where the riser runs in all rooms. With this scheme, each subsequent radiator will be colder than the previous one, but the number of pipes running through the room is reduced.
A two-pipe system is the best method of design, making it possible to maintain a uniform temperature of the heating fluid throughout the entire circuit. When installing such systems, the supply line is usually located under the window sill level, and the return line above the baseboard.

We will consider below how best to connect heating radiators in one case or another, after we analyze each connection method separately.

Lateral - with this method, the supply and return flow are supplied from one side. Works well with heating structures with up to 15 sections;
Diagonal - best used on long heating elements. Communications are connected to the top hole on one side and the diagonally opposite outlet.
The lower one is the least effective option; it requires high pressure in the coolant along the entire length of the heating structures. To maintain heat transfer, heaters with an increased number of sections are used. To ensure normal temperature in private homes, it is used only if there is a sufficient power pump in the heating system.