Popular Zota electric boilers and their range

Adjustments of Zota electric boilers

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• Solid fuel boilers Zota
• Operation and repair of electric boilers Evan
• Adjustments of electric boilers Galan
• Repair of electric boilers Vailant

Help me understand the operating principle of the Zota Lux 9 electric boiler. After a month of use, I had several questions, the answers to which I did not find in the instructions. How can I make it use all three heating elements simultaneously to heat the water? At the moment the situation is this: it works in conjunction with a pellet burner (connected to a hydraulic arrow), it starts at night, an indicator is connected that shows the room temperature. The outside temperature indicator was not connected. The mode was set to precise. The setting room temperature is 25 degrees, the water heating temperature is 90 degrees. Power 9kW. When the room temperature drops to 23 degrees, the unit turns on one stage and begins to heat the water, but the power is not enough and the air temperature drops even lower, to 22 degrees, after which it turns on the 2nd heating element - and the temperature begins to drop again. At the same time, the water does not warm up more than 45 degrees. In other words, the heat loss is about 5 kW and the device should have enough power, but it does not process it accurately. The heating elements are all in working order, their overhaul is normal. If you set the temperature delta above 4 degrees, then all heating elements work. Is it possible to configure it so that the device controls include not just 1 heating element, but all of them at once? Perhaps it’s worth removing the temperature indicator and letting it try to warm up the water, and let the excess cut off the thermal heads on the radiators? Some time ago I used the Zota MK electric boiler, this is the same luxury, only with a pump and a protection group. If I remember everything correctly, then the power of the heating elements in it is determined not by the delta of the target and actual temperatures, but by the difference between the supply and return. In any case, I can say with confidence that when the room temperature dropped by at least 1 degree, all 3 12 kW heating elements turned on, then the steps gradually snapped off as they approached the setting 60 degrees. In your case, I believe the settings have failed or the automation control is malfunctioning. But in general, 90 degrees is too much for such models. Try lowering it, maybe it will start functioning better. External indicators were also present. Surprisingly, 90 degrees is the limit. I remember, in my case, the setting in the menu for water temperature is the current temperature of the coolant, which it maintains +/- 5 degrees. I admit that MK has changed the operating principle. Maybe in your case the weather control is connected, so the device heats according to a curve? Or the opposite situation, as another option, turn on the weather indicator, choosing the most suitable curve for your room? In this option, it must heat the water to a given temperature. There is a problem with the Zota Lux 6 kW electric boiler. Error H5 began to appear. Moreover, it worked and stopped - it began to respond with a squeak to a breakdown. There is pressure in the system, air has been released in all places. Why could such a problem arise? How to check for air pockets in the boiler? (although I don’t understand how he could have stayed there). Maybe someone who has the same model can tell me - should the air indicator (side) be held tightly? In my case, when trying to tighten the nut on the rod, it turns in a circle. Try connecting the level indicator wire and the ground bolt on the heat exchanger, if this does not help, then the problem is with the remote control. If this solves the problem, then the temperature level indicator is unusable. You need to unscrew it and clean it, cut off the transparent insulator, most often this helps. Or change the level indicator. We installed and connected an electric boiler Zota econom, area 140 square meters by 12 kW. At the moment the outside temperature is 0 degrees, I have 3 to 6 kW running all the time. I set the water temperature to 50 degrees, but it warms up to 47 degrees. The room temperature is 24 degrees, I set the outdoor indicator in the house from Zota, which was included in the kit, but did not install the outdoor one. The outdoor room indicator also shows 24 degrees on it. In order to heat the water to 60 degrees, I set the indicator to warm up to 30 degrees and, accordingly, the water to 60, in this case it warms up to 55 degrees, operating at 6 kW, the maximum room temperature is 25 degrees. It turns out there is not enough power to heat the entire area. Regarding the oddities in the control of the device: quite a long switching on when the temperature drops according to the external room indicator, about 3 degrees, it turns out as follows: set it to 23 degrees, until the temperature of the area reaches 20 degrees, it will not normally warm up to 23 degrees. The street thermometer cannot be trusted at all, it’s 3 degrees outside, but it shows all 11 degrees, so I turn it off. The settings are set to 0 mode. The Zota MK-3 electric boiler has been in operation for more than 3 years and is completely satisfied, but I hope there is a small problem. I’ve never used a thermostat before, but this time I look at the screen, the lamp is on, indicating that the thermostat is connected, I go to the menu - mode, and there, instead of selecting the thermostat mode, error H9 is displayed, I press enter, no reaction (nothing switches). I didn't find anything in the manual about this error. Maybe someone had something similar? I am resetting all device settings. The thermostat sensor goes out, but after a while it turns on again. At night, because of this problem, it did not warm up. Turn it off. Open the case and unscrew the cover from the control unit (in the place where all the buttons and sensor are located). Look at the control board. Disconnect 2 chips. There is a battery mounted on the control board, remove it. Next, connect again. We reset the boiler settings to factory settings. To do this, hold down the up/down buttons and immediately turn on the automatic control of the device, it should make a sound. If everything works, the thermostat sensor will turn off and will not turn on on its own. You will need to buy a new battery and put it in the board (optional). If this does not work, then the board must be replaced. Or you can try connecting an outdoor thermostat (theoretically) to connector T1 and T2. If you disconnect the power and plug it back in, the thermostat will connect again. It is recommended that after each disconnection from the network, reset it to factory settings. Malfunction of the electric boiler Zota Lux 9. For a month it worked stably, the water temperature was initially set to 55 degrees, and then to 60, it was connected rarely and not for a long time. In recent days, from time to time I notice that the water cools down to 25-30 degrees, but the heating elements do not turn on. The only thing that helps is turning off the device from the mains for 5-10 minutes. As soon as I turn it back on, stage 1 is activated and the device heats the water to 60 degrees. The time when this problem occurs is constantly changing, the time mode is set to 0, the air indicator is connected (the temperature is set to 25 degrees, in the room 23), the water is set to 60 degrees, the unit is in mode based on the water temperature. Installed Zota Lux several years ago. After some time I encountered a similar problem (there was a stuck relay). Replaced thanks to the warranty card. At the end of last year the problem recurred. I disconnected some relays, and now one heating element works in constant mode (in addition to electric convectors, that’s enough for now). In the future, I plan to completely get rid of automated relays, install a separate machine on each heating element and get rid of this problem for a long time. What is the difference between electric boilers Zota 3-15 and 18-48? How do they differ from this line? Of course, the price gradually increases from 3 thousand to 15 thousand, and then a rapid jump to 18 thousand, and again a gradual increase. Almost a similar story with heaviness, only it is identical for 3-15, and 1.5 times more for 18-48. And their documentation is different. But they differ in nothing but power. I’m right now choosing between the Zota MK-15 or 18, if the latter option is better in some way, not taking into account the power, then I’ll take it, but so far I haven’t been able to find any information. The difference is in the number of heating elements and power boards. From 18 to 48 kW, 3 heating elements units and 3 power units (relays) are installed in the electric boiler. In models 18, for example, 3 to 6. And in models 3-15, 1 block is installed - heating element and 1 relay. This explains the price increase. We installed and connected a Zota econom 6 kW electric boiler. I haven’t tried turning it on yet, I’m getting ready for winter. I don't quite understand the indicators. One is for the street, and the other is for indoors, and the 3rd one is built into the water. Two indicators have wires 40 centimeters long. Is this a joke from the manufacturer? Of course, they could probably be lengthened, but still. And another question: is it possible not to touch these indicators at all? Set it according to the water temperature, and then I’ll see if this is enough or not? It is also possible without indicators, but I installed an indicator in the room to monitor the accuracy of the sensor and room thermometer readings. In my case, the thermometer and indicator are identical. The wire can be extended with a twisted pair, connected by twisting and wrapped with electrical tape. Zota Lux is in operation at 12 kW. There's a problem that I can't understand. Maybe someone had a similar situation, and you can advise something from personal experience. The boiler is operating for the first season. Heats water for a water floor. I regulate it by setting the water temperature on the unit. At the moment it has become warmer, and on the sunny side I am blocking the contours myself, and this is more than half of the 1st floor. I noticed that when the 1st circuit is closed, the other 2 always keep the water within 50 degrees. Although I set it to 45, it still holds exactly 50 degrees. Moreover, the Tens do not function, at least the indication does not light up. It holds exactly 50 degrees, no more. The entire period of cold weather worked properly, it will heat up to 50 and drop to 47, heat up again, and so on. If I currently set it to more than 50, then the heating elements turn on and the indication lights up. For example, I set it to 55 degrees, 1 heating element turns on, I set it to 90 degrees and all the heating elements turn on at once, I lower it to 40, then it stays at 50. But it’s not clear how. In this case, the heating elements are not connected. It is clear that the water is not warming up out of nowhere, although the indicator does not light up, but it is probably heating up. When you turn off these heating elements using the menu (power is 0), it again remains at 50 degrees. Well, when the device is disconnected from the electricity, the temperature begins to drop. Recently the water temperature was set at 50 degrees. As soon as I connect the circuits, it works properly. That is, it works intermittently with small volumes of water. What could be the problem? I found out that the problem is exclusively on short circuits, with a small volume of water. To be honest, back in the winter I noticed its automation; it was somehow incomprehensible. In this case, I’m talking about the automatic switching of heating elements. If you want to achieve a certain temperature, for example, 50 degrees, then you need to set it a few degrees more, because when it almost reaches 50 degrees, it stops 1 heating element and tries to gain the missing couple of degrees with 1 heating element. Naturally, he is unable to do this, so the temperature drops, the 2nd stage is switched on a little lower and everything goes in a circle. Incomprehensible explanations - heating elements do not work, but the temperature remains constant. Try to determine using a meter, if of course they are connected. The heating elements are connected cyclically to maintain the temperature. The less water in the system, the shorter the period for connecting the heating elements. If you manage to catch the moment when the counter is winding up, but there is no heating indication, you will understand exactly what the reason is. When the temperature is set to 45 degrees, it is normal to have 49. There were problems with Zota econom 15. It began to turn off and reconnect on its own when the heating was turned on with an interval of 1 second. All this is accompanied by a kind of click, as at the moment of switching on and lighting up - the heating indicator lamp on the control panel goes out. The most interesting thing is that this does not happen immediately, but after a while after turning on the heating, I believe it will warm up to the set value, and the higher the heating level, the shorter the time after which the boiler will start to turn off and turn on on its own. The electronic module (board) in the control unit is presumably damaged. The Zota MK-9 boiler began to dump water. The problem is the following, in the first year I installed a boiler room, the water pressure was 1.5, the air pressure in the expansion tank was 1.3-1.5, everything worked properly, I never had to top up. The following winter, before the cold weather, I brought the pressure up to 1.8 atmospheres and turned it on, until the end of winter the pressure dropped to 1.1 atmospheres. This year I brought the pressure up to 1.9 atmospheres and turned it on. This is where it all started, the emergency valve began to discharge water in large quantities from time to time, sometimes 0.5 cups, and sometimes even several liters. The pressure did not reach the emergency level, I constantly monitor this and the pressure is 1.9-2.0 all the time. And this has happened more than 3 times during the winter. Maybe some of you have had something similar? What could it be? I assume that these are problems with the emergency valve or the pressure in the expansion tank. You should check the pressure in the expansion tank. The circulation may be disrupted or the sump tank may be clogged. I am interested in your opinion, if you install an external room thermostat, what operating mechanism will it have? Will stage 1 function in the same way at the set temperature or will more be connected? Otherwise, in my case, a problem arose - the device is set to 24 degrees according to the air indicator, but it warms up to 23 and maintains 1-stage water temperature at 43 degrees and does not turn off. How to fix such a problem? Boiler Zota Lux 15 kW. This will not happen with a room temperature controller. In general, I recommend that if possible, refrain from using such a device, since it is not reliable. Especially if it runs on antifreeze. I have the same one that burned down. Well, or at least make backup protection systems. In my case, the boiler heated up to 120 degrees and began to melt, emitting acrid smoke, and the factory protection did not work. Who knows for what reasons an electric boiler could catch fire? Safety system failure due to overheating. Most likely, the relay is stuck, which is why the protection did not work. The boiler heated up, boiled away, then melted from the inside, because the heating elements began to heat the apparatus itself. We need your advice on how to install overheating protection on the Zota Lux 9 electric boiler. I often see comments that the relay is stuck and therefore the protection system does not work, but I have not found information on how to connect an emergency shutdown. I purchased it without reading customer reviews, and when I read it, it was too late to change anything, now I’m afraid to turn it on at night, and I don’t yet have options for other heating. I’ve been using it for 3 weeks now, but I can’t say anything about maintaining the set temperature (it works properly). The meaning of self-protection is that the indicator is irreversible on the flask of the device, set to 90 degrees, that is, if the temperature of the flask has reached this point, it is triggered. This indicator is connected to a starter independent of the boiler. There are models that have starters rather than relays as control elements, but they do not need such protection. You buy a relay, a starter for the required current and place it on the input, in front of its terminal block. The relay is attached to the body of the bulb from above. The starter coil is powered through a relay from any phase. There were problems with Zota econom 6. It worked fine for several seasons. In the spring it started clicking, turning on and off. Didn't use it in summer. At the moment the clicking continues. And so on for a long time. I checked the voltage drops in the network - everything is fine, I didn’t find any surges, the heating elements are in good condition, there is no air in the system, the pressure is 1 atmosphere, the pump is working properly. We came to the conclusion that this could have happened due to the air indicator, and turned it off. History repeats itself. When the coolant temperature rises, it warms up, but when the set temperature is reached, it begins to disconnect and reconnect continuously. What could it be? The water temperature indicator or the electronic module in the control unit has gone wrong. But, first of all, it is necessary to replace the water temperature indicator. I decided to check my Zota Lux 6 indicator. And not only heating, but also level. I looked at the indicator “live” and it was screwed in at the top. In my case it didn't work. But, as far as I understand, the sound and display on the screen simply informs that an accident has occurred. The signal goes to the power part and turns it off. After complete cooling, turn on. Look carefully. From it there are 2 thin wires going to the control unit. He, in turn, sends a signal to the heating element control relay, and it opens. But since the relay is completely welded, it does not respond to signals from the control unit. You need to open the front cover of the device and notice that the phase output circuit breakers go directly to the relay block and directly to the heating element. Therefore, the security system must break the circuit to the relay or directly in the heating element itself. We use Zota econom 9 kW. The device works stably, but there was a similar failure when the temperature in the room where the boiler was installed reached 28 degrees. Despite the fact that the setting of the temperature indicator in the room was 20 degrees. In fact, the contacts of contacts could have occurred, but in this case the temperature per 1 circuit increased rapidly. In extreme cases, you can drop everything to the factory settings. The fact that 50 degrees are displayed all the time, does not say anything, measure the real temperature at the output. Are there any clicks on the relay? Many people say that it is characteristic of temperature sensors to lie several degrees. After the opening of the box with the indicator, I saw what was installed there - LM335. This is a high -precision kind of temperature indicator, equipped with a third withdrawal for calibration using a 10km potentiometer. I will try to make calibration with an accurate thermometer. I plan to put a 6 kW mk zota, I just can’t decide which one to install: a suite or economy. There is a difference in price, but I did not find significant differences (not counting the specificity of installing the control unit). The question related to electricity consumption is also very interested. The consumption of electricity by the boiler is completely dependent on the heat loss and the area of ​​the heated room. Surely, you understand that if you turn it on in full capacity on the street, then it will consume 6 kW per hour. And if it is installed in a well -insulated small house, then it will turn on not more than several times a day. Regarding the model (luxury or economy), then I recommend simply familiarizing yourself with the instructions of these devices. For example, it can be programmed, it is equipped with auxiliary indicators, you can connect a GSM module to it and control it using a smartphone. Non -wings Zota Lux 15 have no reaction to pressing buttons. The impression that there is no contact directly in the buttons, because I was dying gradually, at first (down) did not function, then (choice). Everyone does not work at the moment. Restored did not help. What should I do? What can be advised, only the replacement of the remote control! As an option, you can try to remove the remote control, disassemble and assemble again. This refers to the removal of the rear cover and control board. Then collect everything in place. I came across this, when mounting the module, it seems, I squeezed the buttons, made it weaker and everything is in order. Installed and connected Zota Lux 12 kW. We have been using a little over a year. Last year (in winter), everything worked properly. And at the moment, one gets the impression that he is not enough power to warm up. I checked the voltage in the network - normally. I did the reset to the factory settings, installed it again. The indicator highlights the water temperature of 85 degrees, but in fact a maximum of 60. If the temperature is displayed normal, then the air has accumulated in the system during downtime. First of all, you need to lower the air in all batteries.

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The lineup

So, in the model line of Zota electric boilers there are five models:

Economy model

This is the cheapest model, but in terms of operational and technical characteristics it is not inferior to any other model. This is a fully automated design with a remote control panel. Boilers can be installed in heating systems with natural and forced movement of coolant.

A distinctive feature is that the boiler and process control unit are located in different buildings. They are installed separately and connected by wires. It should be added that Zota economy class boilers with a power of 3-15 kW can operate both from power relay installations and from standard magnetic starters.

The automation of the heating device makes it possible to regulate the temperature in the range from +40C to +90C. These are the optimal limits that allow you to adjust the mode to save fuel consumption. Note:

• Economy class Zota boilers with a power of 3-15 kW are manually adjusted.
• Units with a power of 18-45 kW are configured automatically.

All boilers of this model are equipped with a self-diagnosis system. This makes it possible to identify flaws in thermal processes and breakdowns of components and parts in advance.

Lux

The Lux model is considered the most popular and popular. It is intended for heating houses with an area of ​​30-1000 m². This is a fully automated electric unit that is improved every year, acquiring new options and functions.

In 2012, the manufacturer made the latest updates to the Lux design. He added to it:

• Network surge protection. Voltage surges are not scary for the Lux boiler, even large ones up to 400 V.
• The remote access module is installed. Now you can control and configure the heating device via your mobile phone. The option is very timely; it helps to eliminate the low comfort of using this type of heating device.

Advice! These modules are not installed in all Lux model boilers. This option must be ordered. The price of the device, of course, increases, but at the same time (as experts say) you get not only the convenience of control over the heating system of your home, but also the opportunity to save a lot by making the settings correctly from afar.

Unlike the economy class Zota boiler, the Lux model can withstand temperatures ranging from +30C to +90C. This allows them to be used to connect a “warm floor” system.

The popularity of this type of heating is very high, which is why Lux models are so in demand. The advantages of the model also include:

• An intelligent automation system makes it possible to accurately maintain specified modes and at the same time save up to 35% of energy. The boiler itself selects power taking into account the temperature indoors or outdoors.

• Increasing the working life of the Lux electric boiler and its performance within voltage surges from 160 to 240 V. The most important thing is that during surges, automatically triggered locks open, and the boiler itself continues to operate within the preset settings.

Zoom

Essentially, this model copies the Lux boiler. It has all the same options and functions. A remote access module is even installed upon customer request. But in terms of performance characteristics, the lower power models are superior to the same category of the Lux model. They can be called improved.

A distinctive feature is the so-called “black box”, in which all parameters of thermal processes and consumed electricity are recorded. The black box media is SD with 2 Gb memory. The information can be displayed on a computer. And a few more positive points:

• Chronothermostat, with which you can maintain the temperature regime by day (adjustment is carried out for one week), taking into account day and night.

• Disabling one of the phases is not a reason to stop the Zota boiler. Its power is simply reduced, and an alarm is turned on to notify of a breakdown.
• The same applies if heating elements or relays fail. The boiler continues to operate, signaling.

Prom

These are the most powerful heating units of the Zota brand from 60 to 400 kW. These are industrial devices, so they are designed for floor-standing only due to their large overall dimensions and weight.

All boilers of this model are equipped with block heating elements made of stainless steel tubes. The most advanced automation has been installed, allowing for good savings on fuel consumption.

MK

These are mini boiler rooms, which include:

• Electric boiler with characteristics similar to the Zota Lux boiler.
• Power block.
• Control block.
• Expansion tank of membrane type.
• Circulation pump.
• Security block.
• Pipe junction with shut-off valves.

And all this in one building. What does this mean in practice?

• Firstly, due to the compactness of the device, mini boiler rooms do not require a large installation space.
• Secondly, this configuration allows you to save on additional materials.
• Thirdly, it is easy to install. Here you just need to connect to the power supply network and connect the pipes to the circuits of the heating system of the house.

Advice! For ease of control and configuration of the MK, we recommend installing a GSM module, which will allow you to control all heating processes using a cell phone while being away from home. This option is installed on demand only.

Let us add that Zota MKs are produced with a power from 3 kW to 36 kW. For small country houses, this is the best option for heating.