DIY plasterboard box for battery (photo, video)

A little about the heat transfer of radiators

There are often cases when new aluminum or bimetallic radiators are knocked out of the interior, disrupting its harmony. The issue of finishing is quite relevant and requires a special approach, since installing a decorative casing on a heating radiator ensures its pleasant appearance, but disrupts the process of heat transfer from the device to the room. Let’s try to figure out why this happens and whether it can be avoided before we start making the screen.

The thermal energy released into the room by a heating radiator has 2 components: radiant and convective. The first is characterized by direct infrared radiation entering the room from the hot surfaces of the battery. At low coolant temperatures (up to 50 ºС), the share of radiant energy is small, but at 60 ºС and above it increases significantly. When a decorative box for a battery is installed, the path to the flow of this radiation is inevitably blocked, which means that part of the thermal energy does not enter the house.

The exception is convector-type water heaters; their front surfaces are not hot and there is practically no radiant component. But such heaters are rare.

The convective component is the transfer of thermal energy to the air environment. Battery panels also have an impact on it, as they create an obstacle to the air passing through the fins and other elements of the heating device. And in the case when the design of the screen is unsuccessful, part of the hot air simply accumulates inside the box, unable to escape outside.

The short conclusion is this: by installing decorative screens for radiators, we disrupt the heat exchange process and part of the energy is returned to the heating network through the return pipeline. This is not so scary in a private house, where the system is located throughout the house and this heat will not leave it anywhere, but will simply be transferred to another room. But in the case of an apartment, we simply give away the heat we paid for to our neighbors on the riser, this must be understood.

Depending on how the batteries are decorated, losses range from 3 to 7%. They cannot be completely avoided, but they can be reduced with the help of a successful screen design.

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Frequent painting and constant exposure to high temperatures worsen the appearance of heating radiators, and therefore they need periodic replacement. If, when making renovations in your apartment, you do not plan to replace the heating radiators, the problem arises of masking them with the help of decorative screens that are firmly fixed in the interior of the residential premises. When used as finishing touches, battery screens, along with traditional decorative elements, play an important role in creating a unified stylistic concept, since they not only focus attention on the advantages or hide flaws, but also expand the functionality of the interior details for which design they are used. Despite the wide selection of decorative screens presented on the construction market, experienced craftsmen advise against purchasing a ready-made design and making a screen for the heating radiator with your own hands, which will save a good amount of money and make it taking into account the size of the heating device being decorated and your individual taste preferences. To make this task easier, in this article we will look at how to make a screen for a battery with your own hands.

Content

Operating principle of heating radiators
Physical basis of the functioning of heat-reflecting screens
Advantages of screens for heating radiators
Types of screens for radiators: brief description
What to look for when choosing a decorative screen design?
DIY radiator screen: step-by-step instructions
Screen installation diagram for radiator
Scheme for marking and cutting parts
How to assemble the screen?

Operating principle of heating radiators

At first glance, it may seem that a radiator covered with a box or decorative grille will cope worse with its main functional task, which becomes the most common reason for refusing to upgrade unsightly heating devices. Despite this, the experience of using decorative screens shows that the design, made in accordance with the basic laws of thermophysics, not only does not reduce, but also increases the heating efficiency. To make an effectively functioning battery screen with your own hands, let’s consider the basic operating principle of heating radiators.

The transfer of thermal energy from the heating device to the room is carried out in two ways:

Convection, which is based on the mixing of warm and cold air flows;
Electromagnetic radiation of the infrared spectrum, the power of which increases as the temperature of the radiator increases.

Old-style cast iron radiators work precisely on this principle, heating the air through convection processes. As the heating intensity increases, the ratio of radiant and convection energy changes, as a result of which heat transfer begins to occur due to infrared radiation.

The operation of modern radiators is based on a similar principle, but they differ in their ability to respond to environmental conditions and, adapting to them, redistribute energy in order to maximize its transfer. If maximum heat transfer is impeded by some external conditions, for example, a curtain that impedes air circulation, heat is redistributed towards the front panels, as a result of which heat transfer begins to occur due to infrared radiation. Thanks to this property, the operating efficiency of modern radiators is significantly increased.

Important! In order for the transfer of energy through convection to be as efficient as possible, the front panel of the screen, usually represented by a grille, must be designed in such a way that an air cushion is created between it and the radiator. Otherwise, warm air, which has an obstacle in its path, will partially accumulate inside, which will lead to disruption of heat exchange and heat transfer to the adjacent room. However, for maximum heat transfer, you need to pay attention to a number of details.

Physical basis of the functioning of heat-reflecting screens

In accordance with one of the basic rules of physics, a black body has the ability to maximally absorb and emit electromagnetic waves. This rule is also relevant for effective screens on the battery, since it must absorb infrared radiation from the radiator and, having good thermal conductivity, release heat into the room. Thus, from the presented example it is clear that the inside of the screen must be painted black, while the outside can be decorated at your discretion.

Let's consider the basic rules for designing a heat-reflecting screen, taking into account the basic laws of physics.

To achieve maximum thermal effect, the surface behind the battery is covered with a heat-reflecting screen, which should not be black, but shiny, due to which infrared radiation from the back surface of the radiator will be reflected from the wall and, passing again through the radiator, will heat up even more. Using this technique, you will significantly increase the level of heat transfer and, thereby, increase the efficiency of the heating radiator.

Despite this, the metal sheet does not ensure maximum functioning of the system, since it reduces unnecessary heat transfer only by 5-6 times. The most effective solution to this problem would be to install a heat-insulating mat made of fibrous material, for example, padding polyester, coated on both sides with aluminum. This design reduces the flux of infrared radiation onto the wall by more than 40 times. Experts recommend choosing synthetic winterizer, since the 5 mm thick layer of material prevents heat conduction and is a good reflector of infrared radiation.

For other fibrous materials, heat reflective mats will require a 3cm thick layer of material, which can create additional difficulties when placing the mat behind a radiator.

Advantages of screens for heating radiators

Before we begin making a screen for the radiator, let's consider the main advantages of this design.

Using screens for heating radiators, the advantages of which will be discussed below, you get the opportunity to effectively disguise the radiators, creating a holistic interior concept and transforming your home;
Prevent contamination of radiators, which will facilitate their operation and maintenance;
Properly designed radiators will ensure uniform distribution of air masses throughout the room;
By covering the radiators with a decorative screen, you will protect your household from burns and bruises in the event of a careless collision with heating devices and, thereby, ensure their safety;
A variety of materials, textures, shapes and colors allows you to choose a suitable decorative solution that will be an ideal complement to the main interior concept.

Types of screens for radiators: brief description

There are several main classifications of decorative screens, the first of which involves their division into several groups in accordance with design features and includes:

Screens in the form of a closed box are used in cases where it is necessary to completely close the radiator;
Flat screens are used to mask radiators located in niches;
Hinged screens for radiators are a design with a lid and are used to disguise unaesthetic cast-iron radiators that protrude greatly from under the window sill.

There is another current classification of screens for radiators, which involves dividing models according to the material used. Taking into account this classification, the following varieties are distinguished:

Metal;
Plastic;
Wooden;
Screens made of MDF lattice;
Glass.

Let's take a closer look at the characteristics of each of them.

Metal screens most often look like a box, for the manufacture of which a thin sheet of metal was used. Despite their rather laconic and somewhat primitive appearance, they fully cope with their functional task. The modern market offers more expensive screens made of stainless steel, which can be diversified by perforation. To install metal screens, you do not need to have specialized skills, since they are simply hung on the radiator;
Plastic screens , due to the diversity of the model range and affordable pricing policy, are the most affordable options for all segments of the population. However, experts do not recommend using them in residential areas, since when heated, plastic can release harmful substances;

Wooden models are most often made to order from valuable wood species, taking into account a previously drawn up sketch. Due to their aesthetics and noble appearance, wooden screens are an ideal complement to a variety of interior concepts, including classic, rustic and modern eco-styles. The main disadvantage of wooden screens is their tendency to dry out and deform due to changes in temperature and humidity. To protect and prolong the service life of wooden screens, only high-quality wood is used, which is the reason for the high cost of the products. Radiators, complemented with wicker decorative grilles, acquire an aesthetic appearance;

Screens made from MDF lattice are practically no different in appearance from wooden models, but they are much cheaper. Thanks to the use of modern technologies in their production process, MDF screens are a practical and, at the same time, affordable solution for many. MDF is a material whose quality is practically no different from wood, which can be used to produce screens of various shapes, colors and stylistic designs;
Glass screens are exclusive models for the production of which tempered (stained glass) glass is used. Often such models become an unusual decoration of exquisite interiors. Glass screens are decorated with patterns that you can choose at your discretion, and require careful use and constant care.

What to look for when choosing a decorative screen design?

We have already noted earlier that installing any type of screen helps reduce heat transfer, which in the best case will be 5%. In this regard, remember that effective decorative screens for radiators should be characterized by the presence of the maximum number of holes, which will facilitate the unhindered movement of warm air.

To increase heat transfer from the radiator, it is necessary to install a screen made of foil material behind the battery. Thanks to this, heat will be reflected from it and enter the heated room.

Important! Experts recommend paying attention to another technique that reduces heat loss. It involves painting the inner panel of the screen black, so that the screen will absorb the maximum amount of heat from the radiator and release it into the room.

Due to the fact that radiators need to be washed and the water drained at the end of the heating season, the screen design must be easily disassembled and removable. This condition must be strictly observed, since frequent dismantling of decorative elements creates additional difficulties. In addition, the design must be such that free access to the battery valves is maintained. If you purchase a ready-made design, pay attention to the screen for the Leroy Merlin radiator, the model of which meets all the requirements listed above.

Ideas for making screens for radiators with your own hands

DIY radiator screen: step-by-step instructions

First of all, decide on the type of design you want. If the battery to be decorated is located in a niche, a flat screen is suitable for its decoration. In such cases, a decorative grille is selected taking into account the size of the niche and simply installed in it.

Most often, the batteries are suspended on a section of the wall under the window, and therefore it is recommended to give preference to hanging screens for radiators.

Materials and tools for installation

Among all the options for making a screen for a radiator, the most common is mounting a screen from MDF or chipboard. To make it you will need the following materials and tools:

Chipboard sheets, the color scheme of which is in harmony with the interior of the room;
Mesh, supplied in sheets, which will be used for mounting the front panel and side parts;
Sheet of metal for making a reflective element;
Nails and wood glue;
Fastening elements represented by construction staples and screws.

Screen installation diagram for radiator

The simplest screen design for a radiator is a box in the form of a three-sided box, which is characterized by the presence of a lid on top and legs on the bottom. To assemble the screen, you need to mark the structure, cut out the parts in accordance with the resulting diagram, connect them and secure them.

Scheme for marking and cutting parts

The first stage is measuring the width and height of the radiator. It is necessary to add 10 cm to the resulting width, while only 5 cm to the height. Taking these dimensions into account, the front panel of the screen is made. For installation, you can use a steel mesh, which is subsequently supplemented with an MDF profile;
Next, measure the depth of the radiator and add 2.5 cm to the resulting value. The resulting figure is the width of the side panels of the screen, the height of which corresponds to the height of the front panel;
The dimensions of the screen cover are measured in the same way, however, its dimensions should be 1-2 cm larger than the dimensions of the side panels.
After taking all the necessary measurements, you need to start cutting the parts. To make the front profile, sheets of chipboard or MDF are used, from which rectangular parts 11 cm wide are cut out and, using a hacksaw, an angle of 45 degrees is formed where the parts touch.

Important! After cutting out the front profile, note that it is necessary to form multidirectional angles on it. Using this diagram, it is necessary to cut out all four parts from which the internal lattice of the decorative element is made. To fix them, use wood glue and additionally secure them with wood nails.

How to assemble the screen?

After you have completed all the previous steps and cut out the required number of parts, you need to assemble the decorative screen.

To make a facade panel, use a mesh from which you can easily cut a part of the required size using a hacksaw. To decorate the edges, use a chipboard profile, which must be placed around the entire perimeter on the inner sides of the front corners. The side parts are assembled in a similar way.

Important! If you plan to use the top of the box as a shelf, choose a solid board for its manufacture; otherwise, give preference to options with holes designed to allow warm air to escape.

Make the frame of the future screen using the drawings widely presented on the pages of construction sites. It must be securely fastened, and holes for pipes must be cut in the side edges, the center of the radius of which should be at a distance of 7.5 cm from the height and width of the side strip;
Before you begin assembling the screen, you need to install a metal reflector screen at the back wall, the dimensions of which must correspond to the dimensions of the decorative screen. Thanks to this, you will prevent heat loss and redirect the flow of infrared radiation from the radiator into the room.
There are several options for attaching a decorative radiator to the wall. This can be done by installing a stable frame, as described in our case; you can also attach the screen to anchor collets. The second method, due to the need to purchase expensive parts, is quite expensive.
The gratings can be installed on legs that are attached to the bottom of the product using construction angles. This option has some advantages, since using adjustable legs, you can adjust the height of the structure.

We looked at a fairly common method of making a screen for a radiator with your own hands, for which you only need available materials. If you are not sure that the screen you have made will cope with its functional purpose, you can purchase ready-made models, for example, screens for Leroy Merlin radiators, made at the highest level and widely presented in construction and furniture hypermarkets.

How to make a screen for a radiator video

Choosing material

First you need to choose the right material from which the screen for the radiator will be made.

heating. The options are as follows:

plastic;
metal;
tree;
MDF panels;
drywall.

Plastic is of little use for our purpose. Not only does it conduct heat poorly, but over time it warps under its influence. In addition, the cost of plastic panels is quite high. The only advantage - ease of processing - is completely negated by significant disadvantages.

From the point of view of heat transfer, metal screens on radiators are the best option; by installing such a casing, you can easily keep the losses within 3%, which is almost imperceptible. To do this, you can purchase thin sheet metal with a polymer coating of the desired color and fix it, for example, on profiles for plasterboard systems. However, metal processing is not an easy task and at home, and even without the skills, it is unlikely that you will be able to assemble a decent product.

A good option is battery screens made of wood. Even though wood does not conduct heat well and requires maintenance, there is still room for imagination and the opportunity to create a simple and successful design. It is quite possible to assemble it yourself, and it will serve for a long time.

The same should be said about such material as laminated MDF panels. They are easy to process, strong and durable, and the external pattern can be successfully matched to the interior of the room. Another advantage is that MDF screens do not require maintenance like wooden ones. The cost of the material is quite affordable, so wood and MDF products are the most common options for upgrading heating devices.

A little about plasterboard sheets as one of the most popular finishing materials. It is also quite suitable for our purpose, but making a homemade screen from plasterboard is more difficult, it requires initial skills in working with this material, and the cost will be more expensive.

Wooden box

The easiest way to make a decorative screen for a heating radiator with your own hands is . They are mounted on a frame made of slats. You can choose any position of the boards.

You can make a lattice of cells. In this case, you need to position the slats relative to each other at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. If you need a flat grille, you will have to cut grooves at the joints. Then all elements will be in the same plane. This is a rather difficult process, so the slats can simply be intertwined (if their thickness is no more than 5 mm).

The protective box can be made from narrow slats

Another option could be wooden blinds. They resemble old classic window shutters. You need to make grooves at equal distances on the frame. This will ensure that each slatted angle is the same. It is best to saw through them with a thin hacksaw and remove the excess with a chisel.

The materials from which the box is made must be dry

All materials must be dry. Wood moisture content cannot exceed 12%, since the screen is in close proximity to the battery. If the wood is wet, the heat can warp it. The easiest way to check is to try tying thin shavings into a knot. She must break.

In both cases, the slats must be well sanded before installation to the frame. After fixing it in the right place, you need to carefully apply several layers of primer to the screen. Then varnish or paint.

You can decorate the box with MDF trim around the entire perimeter. It can be processed in the same way as the rest of the structure. For the finishing coat, it is better to choose a different color or shade.

You can also make a battery box from plywood with your own hands. This is a fairly common type of material for making screens. In this case, you need to choose first class plywood. Using an electric jigsaw, you can cut any pattern on the outer surface. It is better to transfer it through a stencil. The processing of such a panel is standard.

How to do it yourself?

Making a panel for a heating device begins with choosing the desired design. You need to proceed from the location of the radiator, existing skills in processing various materials, the availability of working tools and available materials. At home, the easiest way would be to make either a screen-box or a shield-grid. Let's look at how to make such screens yourself.

"Box"

The most popular among home craftsmen is a box-shaped screen. There are a lot of options for making panels for such a box, as well as the materials used. Let's consider the most affordable and easy-to-create box made of mesh framed with a frame. First we need to prepare what we will make from and with what.

Decorative lattice

If there is no need for a screen-box, you can completely get by with a screen in the form of a facade panel. Such a panel can correspond to the size of the radiator or, in its size and shape, correspond to the owner’s wishes. The grille panel can be made in the form of a frame with a metal mesh or a perforated MDF panel. The process of manufacturing such a grille is similar to the process of manufacturing the front part of the camouflage box, discussed above.

How to attach a battery to drywall: step-by-step instructions

Let's look at how to secure a cast iron battery - an outdated method, but many still use it.

The video shows how to properly mount the battery on a plasterboard

For structural strength, shaped legs can be welded to the cast iron structure, which will take the load from the weight of the battery. To prevent the battery from collapsing, brackets are screwed into the profile. In addition, iron pipes will support the battery. But we are looking at how to fix a radiator to drywall.

Attaching the battery to drywall: step-by-step instructions

First of all, using a drill with a wood drill bit, drill holes in the plasterboard. This must be done carefully, without pressing, as the drywall may break.

Important! The distance between the gypsum board and the base can reach up to 10 cm, so a drill bit for a hammer drill is taken 20 cm. Once the holes in the gypsum board are ready, you need to take a hammer drill with a drill 10 mm in diameter and drill holes for fasteners in the main wall. Try to keep the tool exactly parallel to the floor so that the bracket does not move sideways later. Then we hammer the hooks into the holes

Ideally, you need to install a dowel and screw a threaded fastener into it. But such elements are difficult to find, especially for a cast iron battery, so let's assume that we have a hook with a pointed end. If the hook moves or does not fit at the required distance, you need to pull it out and drill a hole with a larger diameter and deeper. Then prepare a wooden cap, into the middle of which fasteners are driven, and only then hammered into the wall. Hang the battery on the bracket and check the level. If the battery hangs unevenly, you can slightly knock down the fasteners with a hammer. Try not to knock too hard on the bracket, since in a brick wall made of old material, you can loosen the fasteners and have to do the work again.

These are all the instructions for attaching a cast iron battery to a plasterboard wall. Now let's look at how to fix an aluminum radiator.

Types of structures and materials

The main element of the screen is a facade in the form of a flat decorative panel with holes that provide natural air convection. The top and side panels are not always used - it depends on the location where the battery is installed. For example, the presence of a wide window sill and a niche make them optional.

The following screen mounting methods can be distinguished.

1. Mounted. The screen, alone or together with the box, is hung with emphasis on the battery or on the wall with hooks.

2. Floor. The screen acts as a facade on the box in the form of a kind of narrow bedside table.

3. Installed. The battery is hidden inside a niche, and the screen is a decorative part of the overall surface of the wall.

The supporting structure of the box can be made of wooden beams or aluminum corners - it depends on the materials of the decorative panel and its frame. The panel itself can be made from different materials: wooden slats, plywood, laminated fiberboard or chipboard, metal mesh.

During installation, a frame made of galvanized steel profile or wooden beams is usually used as a supporting structure (similar to the technology for installing plasterboard partitions).

Decorative glass screens can be distinguished as a separate type. This is the only type of material that is used in pure sheet form, without holes. And in order not to disrupt convection, the panel is installed without the top and side walls. Installation takes place using special fastenings on load-bearing elements made of cold-rolled decorative pipe, which provide the necessary ventilation gap between the battery and the panel.

Types of battery screens

There are several types of designs that can be used to decorate a battery:

Screen box - completely covers the heating device.
The flat screen is designed to create an enclosure for radiators located in a niche.
Hinged screen. This design is very suitable for cast iron raised batteries.

Hinged glass screen for protruding batteries

Wooden screens

The simplest screen to make is a panel in the form of a lattice made of wooden slats mounted on a wooden frame. The position of the slats can be any - vertical, horizontal, diagonal.

If desired, you can make a cellular lattice by placing the slats at an angle to each other, and using two opposite directions of the layout. Moreover, the angle between them does not have to be right. But in order for the lattice to be flat, you will have to make grooves at the connection points, and, given the thickness of the slats and the manual manufacturing method, it will definitely not be easy to do everything.

Another type is a screen-blind. This screen is reminiscent of classic wooden window shutters. In order for the slats in the frame to be at the same angle to the plane, identical parallel cuts are made on the side posts using a miter box. Since the thickness of the wood hacksaw blade is less than the thickness of the slats, two cuts are needed for each of them, and the excess must be removed with a narrow chisel.

Both the timber for the frame and the slats must be dry. Considering the proximity of the screen to the battery, it is necessary that their own humidity should not exceed 12% (these are general requirements for wood intended for carpentry). There is a simple home way to check - if you try to tie thin shavings into a knot, it should break.

When making both types of screens, each rail must be carefully sanded before attaching it to the frame. After they are fixed in place, the grille is primed and coated with two layers of varnish, paint or enamel.

As a decorative finish, you can attach platbands made of wood or MDF around the perimeter of the frame. If these are wooden platbands, then they must be treated in the same way as the grille, but their finishing coating does not have to be the same - the perimeter may be of a different shade.

When the battery is in a niche, the screen can either completely cover it or hang on hooks, leaving small gaps at the top, bottom and sides.

When attaching the screen to the frame, the side surfaces are sheathed with laminated fiberboard or chipboard. The ends of the sheathing do not need to be trimmed with a decorative edge if the screen trims will cover them.

Another common type of wooden screen is using plywood as a panel. If you know how to work with a jigsaw, you can cut out an openwork lattice with any pattern transferred to the surface of the plywood using a stencil. The finishing process for such a panel is no different from a grille: sanding, priming and painting.

Important! When choosing chipboard or plywood for a screen, you need to pay attention to their class. For plywood it should be E1, for chipboard - E0.

Material and tools

Metal corner

Laminated chipboard

To make a battery screen you will need: a hacksaw, a pencil, a ruler, a tape measure, a hammer, a drill. An electric jigsaw can replace a hacksaw. You also need screws of suitable length and small nails, as well as metal corners. To attach the screen to the wall, you will need two hangers (they are usually used for wall cabinets) and dowel-nails of the appropriate diameter.

The screen for the battery is most easily made from wood, chipboard (plain or laminated) or thick plywood. At the same time, you can buy the front part - the screen panel - ready-made in the store, or you can make it yourself, for example, weave a furniture edge in the form of a “lattice” (with a bottom layer of thermal adhesive).

Note!
The smaller the total area of the holes in the screen panel, the worse the battery will heat the house.

Self-adhesive wallpaper

Note!
If you decide to use materials that do not have a beautiful front side to make the screen, it is better to cover the finished product with self-adhesive wallpaper of a suitable color.

To make a heat-reflecting screen behind the battery, you will need a polystyrene foil backing of any thickness, scissors and glue (you can use Bustilat or PVA).

DIY metal screen

You can use a perforated metal sheet or expanded mesh as a panel for the screen. There are ready-made expanded metal mesh with anti-corrosion treatment (for steel) and enamel decorative coating. Such a mesh can be fixed to a wooden frame and used in the structures described above.

But metal has a serious advantage over wood - a high thermal conductivity coefficient. This property allows you to make screens that rest directly on the battery. They even increase its heat transfer by increasing the surface area. Moreover, a battery with such a screen works better not only for radiation, but also for convection - just look at the ribbed heating elements of convectors.

Heat shield reflector

From what was described above, it is clear that a heat-reflecting screen should be placed on the wall behind the battery, but not black, but shiny. It will reflect the IR back from the back surface of the radiator, it will still heat up, the total IR flux to the external decorative screen will increase, and, with a light external surface of the decorative screen, more than 0.5 of the standard IR flux will enter the room. This is already enough for a good profiled aluminum radiator to work more or less normally by convection, with some minor additions, see below.

But a sheet of metal will not be enough. Even polished aluminum will weaken the IR flow onto the wall by 5-6 times, no more. It is necessary to lay a heat-insulating mat made of synthetic padding polyester or any other fibrous polymer, coated on both sides with aluminum. It will weaken the IR flow onto the wall by at least 40 times. Sintepon has the advantage that even with a thickness of 5 mm it practically does not conduct heat and reflects IR well.

Mats made from other materials will have to be at least 3 cm thick, and mineral wool cannot be used open in residential premises at all: it is harmful to health. Aluminized foam plastic is no worse than padding polyester, but it does not bend and it is difficult to put it behind the battery without removing it.

Glass screen

If wooden screens are well suited for traditional and rustic styles, and metal ones for industrial ones, then glass ones look great in modern interiors, such as hi-tech, minimalism, fusion, pop art. It all depends on the decorative processing of the glass.

In principle, you can order self-adhesive film with large format printing for a glass screen. You can also make a design on a matte or transparent surface using sandblasting or paste for chemical etching of glass.

If you don’t want to bother with decorative processing, then glass with a matte surface or painted in bulk is available for sale - you just need to order the desired size, and you can process the edge yourself. The only condition is that the glass must be tempered.

The simplest option for installing a screen is to point-mount the glass to the wall in four places. To do this, use special fittings with remote fastening.

But there is one drawback - you need to drill holes in tempered glass, and this is difficult to do at home.

Therefore, it is better to use a cold-rolled thin-walled pipe as the supporting structure of the screen. It (and fastenings for it and glass) are sold in stores that sell everything necessary for making furniture. As a rule, such pipes and fasteners are made chrome, but you can order them to be painted in any shade from the RAL palette. The screen stands are attached to the floor.

As an additional support for the racks, two remote adjustable fasteners of a closed type (with a plug for the pipe) can be attached to the wall. The glass is secured between the posts using clamps.

Material selection

Drywall screen
To make a screen, you can use a variety of materials:

metal;
wood;
drywall;
glass.

The choice depends on personal preferences, the interior of the room in which it is planned to be installed, skills (working with some materials will require certain skills) and - most importantly - on the installation method.

There are several mounting options:

box (usually drywall is used to create it);
flat screen (made from a thin sheet of metal, wooden slats, glass, MDF);
hinged cover (wood or metal is used for it).

Each option has advantages and disadvantages, so you should study them carefully to choose the best one. With the right skill, you can combine different materials and create unique products.

Metal

Among its undeniable advantages is excellent thermal conductivity. Therefore, its installation will not reduce the heat transfer of the radiator. Elegant products of various designs are created from metal: solid screens, fine-mesh or openwork grilles. For their manufacture, 2 methods can be used: stamping or welding.

A significant drawback of this material is the need to be able to work with it correctly. A person who does not have the proper skills and equipment will not be able to do this.

Wood

Decorative box made of wood
Wood is the most popular material for creating a screen: natural, aesthetic and fits into almost any interior. It is easy to work with, and you can create almost any design: lattice panels made of slats, screens, blinds, openwork boxes made of chipboard and more. With the help of tinting or painting, it is easy to fit the finished wood product into the interior of the room and extend the life of the panel.

Among the disadvantages of wooden screens is the tendency to deform and dry out. That is why it is recommended to use durable types of wood to make a decorative panel for the battery: oak or beech. A more budget-friendly and simpler option is to create a do-it-yourself screen for a heating radiator from slatted fabric. In addition to ease of manufacture, it has another significant advantage - it does not interfere with the penetration of heat into the room.

GKL

Drywall is used to construct a box in which the battery is sewn. Affordable price, ease of installation, light weight of the finished structure, functionality (you can organize storage space in a box, for example) - all this makes this material one of the most suitable.

Glass

Protective screen made of glass
Glass screen is an ideal solution for rooms decorated in modern styles: pop art, hi-tech, fusion, minimalism.

For the manufacture of decorative panels, tempered glass is used - thick and impact-resistant, with carefully processed edges. It can be decorated with a sandblasting pattern, a pattern made using paste for chemical etching of glass, or a film with large-format printing. The design is also sometimes supplemented with LED lighting.

Installation of such a product can be carried out in 2 ways: by point fastening in 4 places or using a cold-rolled pipe, which will fix the sheet on both sides at four points.

Step-by-step instruction

Photo 3 Layout of screen parts for the battery

Let's start by preparing tools and materials.

So, you will need:

fiberboard sheet of suitable colors

Chipboard is easy to paint and, due to its structure, “holds” paint well. You can either paint the entire sheet in advance, or apply paint to the finished product.

sheet mesh that will be installed on the front and side panels;
reflective sheet - metal or foil sheets are most often used;
connecting elements - staples, screws and nails.
wood glue.

Screen mounting diagram

In general, the radiator grille is a three-sided box with a top cover and mounts at the bottom. A circuit is used to cut and assemble all the parts; at the very end, the legs are attached and the screen is mounted on the radiator.

Video 1 Guide and secrets of installing drywall

Marking

To make the front part of the screen, measure both sides of the radiator, after which you add 50 mm to the height and 100 to the width, respectively. First, cut out the front panel from a metal sheet, which you then decorate with MDF.

Next, measure the depth of the radiator taking into account the distance to the wall and add another 25 mm. This parameter corresponds to the width of the sidewalls, and the height is determined by the pancake of the radiator itself, taking into account the inlet.

The screen cover corresponds to the depth of the radiator plus 35 mm.

Trimming parts

After all the measurements are plotted on the diagram, you begin cutting each part. Cut out the front and side panels from a sheet of chipboard. In order to cut the front profile, use an MDF sheet, from which rectangles with a width of 110 mm should be cut. Using a hacksaw, apply a 450 angle in the place where the elements will be connected.

Photo 4 Trimming screen elements

On one rectangle, cut corners in different directions. This way you can connect all the parts using nails and/or wood glue.

Use the mesh for the front window. Due to the soft structure of the material, it is easy to cut with a regular hacksaw. The dimensions of the grid must match the dimensions of the front panel of the screen.

Instructions for making a screen for a heating radiator

So, first of all, I went to buy MDF. I decided to choose a sheet 18 mm thick. I don’t need it whole, so back in the store I asked to cut it for easier transportation in the car.

I bought this MDF sheet

My radiator is quite large and tall, so I need to measure everything thoroughly first. I decided not to make it tightly closed - I read that experts recommend leaving holes at the top and bottom so that the air circulates normally. Above the radiator I will have 3 cm left, below it - 10. I recommend measuring several times and be sure to write down the data obtained, since it is very easy to make a mistake.

We take measurements

At first I couldn’t decide whether I should make 4 “stripes” near the radiator screen or 3. I finally settled on three - it turns out to be a more classic option. The width of each in my case is 15 cm. I carefully cut them out, having previously made markings on MDF. In addition, I cut out 4 strips that will be located perpendicular to the “main” ones for this screen. When they are ready, you need to attach everything and “try it on” - it is important that the screen is even and fits exactly in size.

Markup first

Cut out the required boards

We try it on - the boards are smooth, the corners are right, everything is in order

I decided to decorate the planks that will be perpendicular to the floor (i.e. long) a little by making small indentations on them using a router. Their depth is 3 mm. Thanks to such a small detail, the screen will look more interesting.

Making recesses using a router

Now my favorite thing is to connect all the elements of the front part of the screen. You can do this using metal plates and hardware, but I still decided to do it a little differently.

First of all, you need to make marks on two adjacent planks located perpendicularly. It is important that these marks are located at the same level - a little later I will make grooves in these places, so there is no way to miss here.

Using a lamellar router, I made grooves in all the places where the planks would be connected, and then for “trying on” I connected them all using flat dowels. If they stand up straight and the screen is not skewed, then you did everything right! You can connect all the planks together more reliably - I use special wood glue. It’s better not to waste it - it’s easier to remove the excess later, but the whole structure will be strong.

Using a lamellar router we make grooves

Dowels are inserted into the grooves

But don't forget about the glue!

To ensure that all the planks are fastened properly, I clamp them tightly and leave them for a day. Before doing this, I recommend measuring the panels diagonally - the lengths of all diagonals must match. Most likely, the glue will dry within 4 hours, but for greater reliability it is better to wait longer.

Just in case, it’s worth measuring to make sure that all the boards are fastened evenly

After a day, you can begin to secure the side strips. I fix them in the same way - using grooves, flat dowels and glue, and then wait a while for greater strength. It must be attached using a square so that the angle is exactly 90 degrees. The width of the side bars in my case is 25 cm, but the width of the radiator may vary, so be guided by the specific dimensions of your battery.

I secure the side parts - I do this using a square so that the angle is right

It's time to fix the top of the radiator screen. I decided to attach it using metal corners and hardware. Remember that you must leave a “gap” of about 5 cm to allow air to circulate freely.

The upper part was fixed using metal corners

Almost everything is ready, all that remains is to “fill” the screen inside - for this I decided to use a wooden decorative lattice. And it looks beautiful, and such an “obstacle” will not interfere with heating the room. This grille turned out to be too big for me, so I measured the width and height of the screen from the inside to cut the panel to the right size. I fixed it with ordinary self-tapping screws.

I secure the decorative grille with self-tapping screws

The screen is ready, but I didn’t take something into account - the baseboard. After all, it needs to be placed close to the wall, but the baseboards interfere with this. Therefore, we had to additionally cut out small recesses in order to be able to lean the screen against the wall. Take this into account right away so that you don’t have to take out the tools again and have to do the cleaning again.

I completely forgot about the baseboards, so I make the recesses for them last

All that remains is to decorate the screen, and it can be fixed. It all depends on your imagination and the interior of the room. I decided to paint this screen simply white - it’s easy to do, it will look beautiful and discreet, and it will definitely fit into the interior. I painted it with a roller, in two layers. It is worth waiting for the paint to dry thoroughly and then fixing it.

I decided to paint it white using a roller.

This is the radiator I ended up with:

All is ready! I’m very pleased with my work - I spent a little money and time on it (most of all I had to wait for the glue and paint to dry, and cutting, joining and painting is quick), and it turned out to be much cheaper than a ready-made screen, but nothing outwardly no worse. I think everyone will be able to repeat this if they have the desire and time - with such a screen the interior will look much better, especially if the heating radiators are old.

Self-assembly of the screen

Make a screen frame from a wooden block according to its size. Such a frame will allow you to securely fasten all the parts and will not allow the screen to “float” from side to side. In the frame itself, cut out a hole for the pipe (pipe), the center of which should be at a distance of 75 mm from the side planks.

Photo 5 Assembling the screen facade for the battery

Initially, install a metal sheet the size of the screen on the radiator along the rear wall. This way you will reduce heat loss and direct the movement of warm air into the room.

After the screen is assembled and placed on the frame, decorate the edges of the MDF with a profile. All other parts of the screen are assembled using the same principle.

If you have chosen a wooden frame made from a block, no additional fastening to the wall is required. If there is no frame, use anchor collets to secure the box.

The easiest option would be to put the screen on legs. It cannot be said that the decor will be monolithic, since in general the structure is quite fragile, but this will reduce the costs and time for its production.

A wooden frame will be optimal in terms of strength. Due to the fact that it does not affect the movement and circulation of air, this is the option we recommend for installation.

Video 2 Assembling a screen for a radiator from a ready-made kit

Rattan screen

This is a very beautiful option, but quite expensive. A decorative screen with a rattan facade will be 10 times more expensive than a metal version and identical to a product made of natural wood.

Rattan fabric is brought to our country ready-made in sheets of standard width: 60, 74 and 90 cm. Recently, artificial rattan has appeared on the building materials market, which is made on a paper basis and then painted. Canvases of such material can have a width of 60 and 90 cm. Another excellent option is artificial PVC rattan. It is available only in white and yellowish colors and only in a width of 60 cm.

Artificial rattan

It is important to choose high-quality artificial rattan from a reputable manufacturer so that during the heating season your room is not filled with harmful fumes.

The technology for making the box is almost the same as described above, the only difference is that the mesh is created from rattan. And the frame is best made from wooden planks.

Artificial rattan in Provence style

Mounting features

Grilles on heating radiators must be mounted in such a way that you can easily and quickly access heating appliances and pipes. Periodically, at least twice a year, the heating system elements must be cleaned of dirt and dust, so access is necessary. In addition, emergencies arise from time to time. In this case, a quick reaction is required and there is no time to unscrew the fasteners. Therefore, try to come up with a fastening system that allows you to remove the screen in one motion.

Attached and mounted

The easiest way is with mounted or attached screens. They are removed/retracted in seconds. But flat, covering radiators in niches and box screens that are attached to the wall are the most problematic. But even here everything is solved simply. You can secure the box to the wall using two strips: one on the box, the second on the wall. The whole secret is that the top edge of the planks is beveled (you can see it in the picture). The one that is nailed to the wall has a slope towards the wall, the one on the frame has a slope towards the grating. When the box is installed in place, it turns out something like a lock.

How to fix a screen box for a heating radiator on the wall

Another option is to attach metal plates to one of the strips and magnets to the other. Or attach not a wooden plank to the wall, but a metal corner, for example.

In the case of flat screens, the solution may be the same - metal plates and magnets. Another option is hooks and loops. It is easy to implement, but not very convenient to use: while you get into loops, you have to suffer. There is also a difficult-to-install but convenient way: make a screen like a sliding door.

Sliding screens for radiators

You can take the guides that are sold for furniture doors, install them, and insert the screens into the corresponding grooves. If you do not plan to actively use the niche near the battery, you can not install roller mechanisms, but it will be difficult to move them away. This method, by the way, can also be used for the box lattice. It can then be nailed “tightly” to the wall, and the front wall can be made movable.

Technology for assembling gypsum plasterboard structures - step-by-step instructions

The general technology for assembling frames consists of three main stages of work:

Creating a frame.
Sheathing the frame on the outside with plasterboard.
Finishing the surface of the box.

Let's look at these stages in more detail.

Frame making

The pipe box consists of two mutually perpendicular planes, attached to the wall and the floor (for horizontal distribution) or to two adjacent walls (for a vertical riser). Therefore, the frame is also made of two gratings perpendicular to each other, fixed to the corresponding surfaces of the walls or floor. The order of assembling the frame is determined by the configuration of the room and the location of the pipelines.

First, you need to attach the main guides to the load-bearing surfaces of the walls or floor, to which the rack elements will be attached, connected by an edge from another main profile. They are connected using special self-tapping screws; at the joint areas, the side shelves are cut with metal scissors and bent to connect the elements more tightly. If wooden blocks are used, first assemble two gratings, which are then attached to the wall on one side and to the floor on the other (or an adjacent wall if you need to cover the riser).

Wooden frame for the box

Step by step procedure:

Step 1. Surfaces are freed from foreign objects (hooks, hangers, mirrors, etc.).

Step 2. The frame is carefully marked. The position of all lines is controlled by a building level or plumb line. The distance to the edge of the frame is determined by the area where the pipes protrude further from the walls, plus 5 cm for the width of the guides or wooden blocks.

We make markings

Step 3. Using an electric drill or hammer drill, prepare sockets for installing dowels. The installation step of fasteners is determined by the size and location of the box, but not less than 0.7 m.

Making holes for dowels

Step 4. Cuts are made on the side walls of the metal main guides where the crossbars are attached.

Step 5. The main guides are installed on the walls and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Fixing the guides

Step 6. Install pre-cut cross members.

Step 7. Both sides of the lattice are connected with an external rib from the main profile, in which cuts have been made in advance for attaching the crossbars.

Metal frame for vertical pipes

Installation must be done as firmly and accurately as possible. It must be taken into account that any mistake made when assembling the frame will subsequently affect the appearance of the box. Distortions will become noticeable when laying tiles or wall panels that have clear geometric shapes.

Self-tapping screws for metal with a drill tip

Drywall installation

After completing the assembly of the frame, they begin to cover it with plasterboard. First of all, you need to cut pieces of material corresponding to the sides of the box. It should be noted that the first will exactly repeat the shape of the frame, and the width of the other will increase by the thickness of the sheet. It is best to cut off and immediately attach one of the pieces (either horizontal or the one without inspection hatches) so that the size of the second piece can be measured without errors.

To cut drywall, use a hand saw with fine teeth and a slight spread, a jigsaw, and sometimes a regular stationery knife. They cut the sheet along a ruler, break it along the smooth edge of the table and finally cut it off along the fault line.

Cutting drywall with a utility knife

The resulting edge is rarely perfectly smooth, so it is additionally processed with a plane or a special grater. During cutting and processing, a large amount of gypsum dust is raised, so you should work with safety glasses and a respirator. In addition, you cannot work in rooms where computers are installed - fine gypsum dust has a fatal effect on fans, completely depriving them of their functionality and jamming the bearings.

The material is fastened to the frame using phosphated plasterboard screws. They are black with a fine thread pitch. You can also use ordinary wood screws, but you need to be more careful at the final stage - they have a larger thread pitch, so the head may go too deep into the surface of the gypsum board. It is recommended to make the distance between adjacent fasteners in the range of 10-15 cm.

Self-tapping screws for drywall

A socket for installing an inspection hatch or a window for taking meter readings is cut in place. First, mark the surface and drill holes in the corners. Then a hole is cut out of them according to the markings, the dimensions of which correspond to the size of the hatch frame.

Interesting design options for battery screens: photo ideas

In addition to the technical side of the issue, the aesthetic side is no less important. There are grille and screen options that are more of a design element rather than a technical detail. Some of them are in the photo.

The decorative panel that covers the radiator itself looks like the work of an avant-garde sculptor

Looks like a chest from a fairy tale. This is made using laser cutting

Openwork always looks attractive

Option for designing grilles for heating radiators in a modern style

Making a backlight is an original idea

Repeating the pattern on the wallpaper is a stylish solution

Make not just an attached box, but a functional thing

Glass screens can have any design, be it a landscape, an ornament, even your personal photo

A stylish version of a metal screen for rooms in minimalist and high-tech styles

Battery box material

For the frame of the box we will use the PN (PNP) profile 27×28 (ceiling guide profile) and the PS rack profile 60×27. To cover the frame we use moisture-resistant plasterboard GKVL 12 mm thick.

Before purchasing the material, we will draw a sketch of the future box. In the sketch we will take into account two holes for air circulation. One hole at the bottom of the box in the battery area. The second, large rectangular hole above the bottom hole. Subsequently, we will cover them with a decorative perforated screen.

Related article: Plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: how to make a single-level ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands

Purpose of decorative grilles

A well-chosen protective grille should not disturb the harmony of the room. Its task is to become an excellent stylistic addition to the interior and an effective camouflage device behind which an unaesthetic battery is hidden.

The functional purpose of the radiator is to heat the room. Therefore, the protective screen should not interfere with effective heat transfer.

If this element retains heat, the room will become cold, and additional heating sources will have to be used, and this entails an increase in utility bills.

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But you can choose a grille configuration that will not only hide the radiator, but also increase the flow of heat into the room.

In addition to hiding the surface of the battery, the decorative grille performs protective functions. Firstly, the screen protects the radiator from dust and contamination. Secondly, it doesn't get as hot as a battery. This means that you can touch it without fear of getting burned. This is especially important for families with children or pets.

In addition, the screen can be quickly dismantled for the purpose of prevention, repair or replacement of the heating device.