Troubleshooting Electrolux geyser: diagnosis of popular breakdowns and methods of elimination

Preparatory work

Despite the fact that each column “Selena”, “Vector”, “Bosch”, “Neva” comes with instructions indicating the settings, not all users understand them. One mistake at the beginning - and the technology does not function as it should.

Work begins with adjusting the water. If you do not do this right away, then all settings will be inaccurate. The flow should be minimal. The nominal values are indicated in the documents, but they are general: 6, 10, 12 liters.

How to set the hot water regulator:

Open the hot mixer to full power. When connecting to several intake points, only one valve can be unscrewed.
Using the water switch, set the desired value.
Turn on the tap.

Follow the recommendations of experts:

Wait until the pressure in the line decreases, but the column will still turn on.
Turn the water toggle knob to the maximum position.
Turn the gas regulator to the minimum mark until the temperature suits you.

To finish cooking, you need to adjust the gas supply. Check the data sheet again to find out the minimum value for your model.

Turn the toggle switch to minimum.
Open the gas valve. In the Ariston and Electrolux models, this must be done after connecting to the network. In Oasis, Dion, Bosch, Junkers heaters - after installing batteries.
Open the hot valve and the column will start working.

Adjusting the water temperature

Open the mixer and evaluate the heating temperature of the water flow. It should be 25 degrees higher than at the entrance. Keep in mind that the gas boiler does not heat the water immediately, you need to wait a little. Use the gas lever to adjust.

You can also adjust the temperature using a water toggle switch. By increasing the flow force, you reduce the heating temperature, and vice versa.

Experts do not recommend heating above 55 degrees. This negatively affects the operation of the device, since scale is actively deposited.

The settings take some time, so you don’t need to wait for the results right away. After each stage, you need to drain the water and let it heat up again to check the accuracy of the indicators. Operation may be hampered by reduced pressure in the system.

If the device runs on liquefied gas and there are problems with pressure, do this:

Remove the device casing.
Loosen the locking bolt and measure the readings with a pressure gauge.
Remove the seal from the adjustment screw.
Start the boiler.
Set the maximum values, unscrew all hot water faucets.
Set the required pressure.

Some models are equipped with an additional “Winter-Summer” mode. The heating power of the water in the column depends on the temperature of the inlet flow. In winter, the regulator is set to the “maximum” position - maximum heating. In summer, the inlet temperature is higher, so the value is “minimum”. This saves resources.

Problems with poor water pressure can be corrected by checking. If the equipment has already been in operation and you decide to reconfigure it, but there is no pressure:

Check the rubber membrane. Its operation depends on the pressure in the line. The membrane bends and the gas valve is activated. When it wears out or becomes deformed, the gas supply does not start and the burner does not light up. Replace the membrane.
Mesh filter. Located at the entrance to the water reducer (block). It becomes clogged with small debris from the water supply, so the pressure may decrease. Clean the part.

Operation and repair of Electrolux geyser

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Malfunction of the Electrolux GWH 285 Nanopro geyser. It worked properly for 5 years. Now there is a problem. Everything also turns on properly, but if it works for a long time (about 30 minutes, but does not turn off), then when you try to turn it on again: 1) it gives a spark for 5 seconds, but the gas does not ignite; 2) the red diode flashes. It can turn on properly only after a pause of about 10-20 minutes. After a pause it lights up properly. If you use it in short intervals there is no problem. Help me to understand! I read that a similar manifestation occurs if protection due to draft or heating by gases is triggered. But the heater does not turn off on its own. There is no spark when the traction/overheat sensors are activated. To begin with, we install new high-quality alkaline batteries. Perhaps the servo valve stops working when it heats up, which means it will soon break completely. After warming up, when restarting, use a multimeter to measure the voltage on the servo valve - if there is about 1.4V, remove the valve - check it with a battery - change/repair the valve. If there is no voltage, check the contacts, wires and controller. I am using an Electrolux GWH 265 geyser. I really like the battery ignition, but the extreme sensitivity to water pressure makes life very difficult. I found advice on adjusting the microswitch that monitors the pressure in the line - can you tell me the nuances? Set the flow (right knob on the device) the smaller the better and the differences will not have such a strong effect, unless, of course, the differences are from zero. It turns on not from pressure, but from the size of the flow. The right handle just regulates the flow. If it starts poorly, you need to measure the flow in the simplest way - with a two-liter mineral water bottle and a stopwatch. If it is less than 2.5 l/min, you need to change the old rusty pipes that limit the flow, all sorts of flexible hoses, if possible, replace them with something with an internal diameter of at least 12-14 mm. Well, or install an automatic booster pump, if at the entrance to the apartment everything is already bad with pressure and flow. Column Electrolux 275. The water in the area was turned off in an emergency, after starting the device (at first very rusty water began to flow) it stopped turning on. The water pressure in the system is as usual, but the column itself cuts off the water pressure and makes a loud noise in the water block. What could it be? There is a filter there (if there is no other filter before the column), apparently it is clogged. If someone threw it away, then the frog itself is garbage. The outlet from the device also needs to be checked, there may be scale. I also wanted to clarify about faucets with thermostats. As far as I understand, it is not recommended to place them together with “open” speakers (though I don’t fully understand why). And if we consider closed devices with temperature control, is there any point in using a thermostatic mixer at all? Thermostatics only make sense if you are particularly sensitive to temperature changes. Since even in closed systems there are small, fast transient processes that do not go beyond 1-2 degrees. Such mixers can only be placed on columns with temperature stabilization, no matter open or closed. For mechanics - this is undesirable - this can cause it to overheat, since the power there is either not regulated at all except by the handles, or within very small limits, insufficient for reliable operation with thermostatic mixers. The geyser Electrolux 285 Nano Pro is in operation. The cold water pressure is very good, but the warm water pressure coming out is very weak. Where to look for a problem? Firstly, the hydraulic resistance of old devices is very high. There is a hole in the membrane of the water unit. Through which water passes about 3 mm. Maybe this unit is clogged. You need to take it apart and look. Either the water block (or its filter mesh) is clogged, or the heat exchanger is overgrown with scale. Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus column installed. The problem is that when taking a shower, the water alternates between hot and cold. In short, taking a shower is not very comfortable. I think this is due to the fact that it has poor performance, or is located far away from the shower (3 meters). What do you advise? Maybe there are expansion tanks that at least somehow helped the heater always supply hot water? Or do I need to change everything to the boiler? This is due to the pressure jumping in the supply network. And if the water is “our own” and connected directly to the pump, this is generally normal. If the pressure allows, you need to install a reducer at the cold water inlet and adjust it to the minimum pressure in the network, which happens in the network, but not less than 1 bar. If the pressure in the network not only jumps, but is also less than 1 bar, only a device with a closed chamber and electronic temperature stabilization or replacing it with a boiler will help. You can connect a relatively small electric boiler (30 l) in series with the existing apparatus to smooth out temperature fluctuations. Set the boiler thermostat to the temperature that you usually set on the heater, so that the electric heating does not turn on when the device is operating. Malfunction of the Electrolux GWH 285 Nanopro geyser, in operation for 5 years. Suddenly it began to dispense lukewarm water. At the near point (1 meter of pipe) - 31 degrees, at the far point (4 meters of pipe) - 28 degrees. This is at maximum settings (maximum gas and slow spillway). The heat exchanger was clean, but I still washed it both outside and inside - the temperature did not change. Very weak flame - at full throttle and the lowest water temperature (maximum spillway) - very weak, even goes out. This has never happened - it always worked at full throttle and maximum water flow - it gave 38 degrees, and when the spillway slowed down it gave 45 degrees. At the maximum water temperature, the flame is 2-3 cm. Modulation works: when the water is closed, the flame decreases, and, conversely, when the flow increases, it grows (but very weakly). The water pressure through it is very good (almost like cold water). There was a repairman who installed a new membrane - nothing changed, installed a new servo drive - the same thing, disassembled the burners, clean ones, measured the gas pressure on the burners - normal. I adjusted something in the gas unit, checked how the gas supply valve opens (he said “fully”) - no result, disassembled the water pressure adjustment valve - nothing. The flame is very weak and modulated in the wrong range - no higher than 30 degrees at maximum settings. Always the flame at maximum gas almost reached the plates, but now it only rises a third of the chamber. The gas stove works fine - the flame is excellent. The batteries are fresh, the flame ignites instantly. It seems that some kind of temperature or pressure sensor is supplying incorrect information to the electronics, and it does not fully open the gas. What else can you check? What can be measured there with an unknown amount of power? Standards are measured at minimum and maximum power. But there is no power. And therefore there could not be any “norm” there. The reason is most likely a weakened gas valve spring. And it is not supplied separately. Malfunction of the geyser Electrolux GWH 265 Nano Plus. For some reason it stopped turning on correctly, I open the water to maximum and stand there, waiting probably 30 seconds for it to turn on, sometimes even longer. Sometimes it turns on faster if you stand in front of it and turn both taps - it can light up, and each time the valves are in different positions, no circuit can be traced. I've been suffering for a week now. It was purchased and installed last year by a master. Can someone tell me what the problem might be? Is it possible to fix it yourself? A colossal amount of water is consumed when hot water is needed. The display also does not react at all. When there is a spark, the column immediately turns on and works without problems. Disassemble the water block and check its insides and membrane. And also the rod for jamming and the microswitch. When you manually press the microswitch, a spark should appear. We installed an Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus column, connected it to the gas, in general, the problem is that the water comes out cold, although everything seems to be working, the electronics always show no more than 20 degrees. I tried changing the gas and water modes, nothing helps! What could it be? Why overpay when you could buy an oasis, comfort, vector with the same filling. There is a malfunction of the Electrolux 275 geyser, when you turn on the hot water, everything lights up and works for 5-7 minutes, after which there is a click in it and it goes out along with the igniter. Tell me what is the problem? There is no hood or no air flow or the heat exchanger is clogged. I am using an Electrolux gas water heater from 15 years ago; I recently cleaned the heat exchanger lamellas and burner nozzles. The condition is good. The problem is the gas mixture popping when the device is turned on. I'm afraid it might blow away. The traction is good. I noticed that when the main burner is turned on, the wick flame decreases by 1/2, and when the burner lights up, it is restored. Should it be like this? Or this is the reason for the late ignition of the gas mixture. There is not enough gas. You have not fully opened the gas valve. There are problems with the Electrolux 265 Nano Plus column. Operated in “summer mode”: 1) Insufficient water flow at the outlet; cold water 17 l/min, hot water 5 l/min. 2) Temperature, pressure, gas supply jumps (visually). I turned on the full power mode: 1) The pressure becomes stronger (itself is stronger + the temperature knob has to be turned counterclockwise), and sometimes reaches 9 l/min. 2) The parameters continue to jump. Not that it jumps, but when you turn it on, water of one temperature starts flowing, after a while it seems to “break off” and a new one is installed, after a while another one again, not from cold to hot, of course, but unpleasant. The gas supply fluctuates greatly, it periodically makes a loud noise, then calms down. The pressure also varies, 5-9 l/min. 3) After half an hour of operation, it suddenly turns off. I took off the cover, cleaned everything of dust, and it doesn’t seem to turn off anymore. The fault was with the traction sensor, but everything seems to be fine there. The weak pressure is not critical, but the constantly changing temperature got to me. In addition, an unexpected increase in gas supply is accompanied by a sharp increase in noise, at first you get scared, then you get used to it until the moment the device suddenly cuts off the gas supply, and then you get scared, and suddenly it turns off. What to watch/clean? A frog? Heat exchanger? I can’t grasp the logic of the problems, because the temperature/pressure weakly correlate with each other and change haphazardly. I decided to do a little research on the operation of the water part when the gas is turned off. The pressure differs slightly, changing noticeably when turning the temperature regulator, but not significantly, from about 5 to 6 l/min. What confuses me is the whistling sound when the mixer is not fully opened. The whistle is observed in all positions of the regulator, except “all the way clockwise”, from which I conclude that the source is the frog. The whistle is like a boiling kettle. The more the temperature regulator is turned counterclockwise, the stronger it is. The gas water heater gwh 275 is in operation. The problem is the following, I rent an apartment, the repairs there were not completed, I finished it, but the water heater was turned off, due to my inexperience in this matter, I mistakenly connected the gas to the cold water supply. Afterwards, I quickly swapped the hoses, and everything worked, but on New Year’s holidays I did not appear in the apartment and the gas and water were turned off and were not used for two weeks. Now the problem is the following: the ignition burner lights up, but when switching to the main one it immediately goes out. EMC in water, i.e. a little rusty. Take it out, wipe it, dry it. Malfunction of the geyser Electrolux 285 Nano Pro. She is 5 years old, during all this time she has only changed the heat exchanger 3 times, the last one six months ago. The problem is the following, I turn the gas level regulator, light the igniter, it burns very well, I try to switch to the main burner switching mode, and a little before reaching the first mode (conditionally winter), the igniter goes out! Today I went through the entire column, the heat exchanger is clean, the water pressure is strong, I cleaned everything I could from soot. I didn't understand the frog. Previously, there were problems that after a click the gas valve turned off, but there has never been such a thing that it did not turn on at all. Could it be the gas level regulator? Visually he is fine. And they forgot about the traction sensor. Try short-circuiting it. The Electrolux 275 column is in operation, the pilot light is dimly lit. Presumably carbon deposits have formed. How and with what can I clean it? You need to remove the ignition nozzle and clean it with some hair, maybe a wire. I have been using the Electrolux 285 Nanopro column for many years, I cleaned the heat exchanger several times, everything was fine, until the last time. When the temperature increases with the lower regulator, the water pressure drops significantly. What could be the reason? And immediately question number 2, it happens that occasionally it leaks directly from the lower regulator, I somehow took it apart, cleaned the membrane, and the leak stopped for six months, but now it leaks again sometimes, maybe the membrane needs to be replaced? Or just take it apart and clean it? For the last week and a half, I simply haven’t turned the bottom handle to a vertical position, and I turn the resulting barely warm flight water with the top handle to obtain the required temperature, so the pressure doesn’t decrease and the water is hot, I hope this doesn’t cause any harm. If it is very strong, then there is garbage. There are small holes there, they should be clean. Take this plastic thing apart in your hands, remove the rubber ring, wind up a few turns of the foam so that you can still assemble/put it in and it will still last. And turn less often. Place the upper knob on the first / small flame (if everything is normal with the gas pressure), use the lower knob to adjust the desired temperature. These columns have flame modulation and after this setting the water can be opened not all the way, but as much as necessary (just not a drop) and the water will be the same temperature as it was set. I replaced the heat exchanger (it was leaking), and when checking, a leak was discovered at the outlet of the “frog” onto the heat exchanger. Before the replacement there was no leak, the leak was not at the nut. What could be the problem? When assembled, center it by holding the heat exchanger tube. And just to be sure, remove the fitting and wind the fuses under the rubber ring so that they can still be pushed into place. The Electrolux GWH 275 geyser is in operation. It is almost nine years old; two years ago the heat exchanger was replaced due to a leak in the old one. That's what I wanted to know at the moment. About six months after turning off the water, the ignition began to click for 10 sometimes 20 seconds. Having removed the bottom switch from the water unit, I realized that the rod comes out too slowly after turning off the water, and accordingly, by the time it reaches the switch flag, the column clicks the ignition, I thought, the membrane has stretched or lost its elasticity. Today I replaced the membrane with a new one, during disassembly there were no calcium deposits, etc. There was no water block inside. The deposits were carefully removed with soap and a soft brush, when assembling the rods I lubricated them with gun oil (spindle), the rubber seals were cyatim 201. Now the picture is like this, if you use it for a short time, 1-2 minutes, when you turn off the ignition it does not click, if for a long time, 20-30 minutes, after After turning off, it still clicks 3-5 times, compared to what was, of course, much better, but it shouldn’t click at all. By the way, the old diaphragm is not tactilely different from the new one, it is intact, not elongated, and elastic. What could be the reason? Maybe the mobility of the rod in the lower assembly is impaired, I pressed lightly with a screwdriver so as not to bend anything, it moves, I was afraid to press it further. Maybe change which seals on the rod and fill it with grease at the same time, if any, of course? And so, no matter how slowly the rod descends, how can a spark appear without recharging? During operation, the spark is silent (otherwise the column would turn off). 1) If you remove the wires from the rod without disconnecting the wires (the water is turned off at this moment), then the ignition starts clicking without stopping, you press the flag with your hand, it turns off, you release it - it works again. 2) If the switch on the water column is turned on, the gas ignites, I remove the switch from the device, press it with my hand, the water continues to flow, I don’t turn it off, the gas turns off, I release the flag, the ignition clicks, the gas flares up, after ignition the ignition turns off. Malfunction of the Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus geyser. After 3 months of operation, it began to show error E0. As far as I understand, it means overheating of the water. Can I do something about this myself or do I need to contact a service center? In general, I released the air, the delay is 2-3 seconds. I don't know if this is normal or not. Water pressure: cold 10 liters runs in 50 seconds, hot 1 minute. 37 sec. In principle, everything suits me. I just want the problems with overheating and pipe failure to not happen again. So reduce the gas, add water/flow (right stick). And if the thermometer shows no overheating, then the sensor is to blame - shorting it is not such an important thing. For a 30 meter pipe, I think it’s normal. Try shutting off the water inlet to the column, it will go out faster. Malfunction of the geyser Electrolux 265 Nano Plus. There is a strong noise inside the mechanism in the pilot flame mode, as if gas under high pressure is escaping from a small hole. What can be done? There is a window on the igniter for air intake; it must be covered/wrapped with foil. An Electrolux speaker is installed. It doesn’t light up at all (from the batteries, I changed them and checked the connections). There is not even the characteristic clicking sound of a spark, as I understand it. I took off the lid, a match set it on fire, but it burned for 2-4 seconds and went out. I understand that there is something wrong with the ignition. The display shows error E1. Apparently the thermocouple is faulty. In operation, the Electrolux Gwh 275 gas column. From six months ago, the problem appeared - after turning off the gas with the upper handle, the wick is not a dinked minute 2. Then it passed. Now it was repeated with greater force. The wick does not go out at all. Gasha, overlapping the crane at the entrance. If you open the tap, while the upper handle is in the position of the excavation., The wick lights up from Piezo. Related circumstances, although after it does not mean as a result. Immediately before that I mixed up hoses and launched water into the gas line. On the ground floor, when trying to turn on the stove, the water gurgled. I live on the second, it didn’t get to that. What could have happened? The thermocouple cools, the electromagnetic valve closes the gas. If you can, disassemble, wipe, dry and collect. If the valve begins to turn off without fire, then you don’t need anything else. The wick was blowing, after some seconds, the gas will block. EMK is located behind the gas part, where the wire enters. It is attached with two turnkey screws 8.

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Gas boilers
Electric boilers
Gas water heaters
Malfunctions and repairs of geysers
Water heaters
Boiler error codes
Troubleshooting boilers
Troubleshooting water heaters
Repair of indirect heating boilers
Troubleshooting electric convectors

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BOSCH TERM 4000

Models WR-13, WR-13. Specifications. Installation. Maintenance and adjustments.

NEVA 4510

Design and main components. Installation and connections.

NEVA 4511

Purpose of main components and elements. Maintenance and replacement of parts.

NEVA 4513

Adjustments and settings. Service maintenance.

NEVA

Design features. Malfunctions and maintenance.

NEVA LUX 5514

Elements and components. Installation and assembly. Operation and adjustments.

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NEVA REPAIR

In operation, the Neva VPG-12E gas water heater, after turning on the hot water tap, the water heater lights up, but the temperature does not rise above 20 degrees. The water pressure is normal, it does not respond to the regulator for increasing the flame, as it was 18-20 degrees, it remains so. What could be the problem?

ARISTON

I connected the Ariston Marco Polo Gi7s speaker. Everything is working. But the device turns on the second time. That is, you turn on the water, the column starts up, clicks and goes into error E1. Then he closed the tap, opened it and it started. Powered by a cylinder. Is this possible because after it works I turn off the gas?

ELECTROLUX

There is a malfunction of the Electrolux 275 geyser, when you turn on the hot water, everything lights up and works for 5-7 minutes, after which there is a click in it and it goes out along with the igniter. Tell me what is the problem?

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OASIS

Malfunction of the Oasis TUR 20 geyser. In the “Summer” mode, the gas and water regulator is at maximum. It goes out on its own, sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes after 30. In the “Winter” mode, with any combination of controls, it goes out after 30-40 seconds. What can be wrong? Water supply via flexible hoses. Could they be the cause? If yes, what should I replace it with?

VECTOR

Tell me, I have this problem: when the water is turned off, the column lights up on its own, the temperature rises and does not turn off (I had to take out the batteries), I put the batteries back in (I don’t turn on the water), it lights up, what should I do?

ASTER

Help me find the reason, geyser Astra 8910-02, when hot water is turned on it goes out from time to time, I cleaned the thermocouple until it shines, the membrane is in good condition, but just in case I replaced it with a new one, the water pressure is less than that of cold water, what else note?

BOSCH

I installed and put into operation a Bosch WR 13 gas water heater. I switched the nozzles to liquefied gas, removed the jumper from j6, that is, switched it to liquefied gas mode, but the water heater does not work, who knows anything about this? When turned on, the green button lights up for a couple of seconds, and then the red button starts blinking and only the fan turns on.

JUNKERS

The Junkers gas water heater began to malfunction. It works for 15-20 minutes and goes out. You turn the water off and on, the igniter lights up, and after a few seconds it goes out, and you can do this no matter how many times, it doesn’t light up. A little time passes - it works, and everything repeats again. The water pressure is good, as is the gas pressure. What could be the reason?

Setting up an automatic column

Such devices are equipped with only one regulator. It is responsible for power and heating temperature. The built-in self-diagnosis system conducts a complete assessment of the operation of the units upon startup. If something is wrong, a red indicator on the panel lights up - the equipment is blocked from turning on. In this case, you need to adjust the pressure as described above.

Remove the batteries from the compartment.
Turn off the microswitch.
Insert batteries.
Open the hot water tap and turn on the microswitch.
Set the burner pressure to maximum.
When the settings are saved, the orange light will light up.

The remaining columns can be adjusted by turning the toggle switch and controlling the strength of the water flow.

Unfortunately, you can't just set the settings according to the instructions, since each system has different parameters. If you are unable to adjust the operation of the gas water heater, contact a specialist.

Emergency shutdown of the gas water heater

Reason #1. The sensor is faulty.

The first sign that the sensor is worn out and needs to be replaced is a chaotic shutdown of the column. Bimetallic sensors are used to prevent overheating of the column and the penetration of carbon monoxide. It works by heating, or more precisely, when heated inside the sensor, two plates repel and disconnect the electrical circuit. When the sensor wears out, the plates can become separated at the slightest vibration, which leads to a break in the circuit and as a result the column turns off.

Reason #2. Poor water pressure or membrane wear.

The geyser may turn off due to poor or floating water pressure, a faulty mixer or shower head. If the column is sensitive to water pressure, it is advisable to contact the service department to inspect the membrane of the water part for cracks. We are such a service, so if you have problems when using a geyser and you cannot solve it yourself, call us and use our services - repair of geysers.

Annual cleaning →
The column does not light up →
Poor heating →
Shuts down suddenly →
The wick goes out →
The geyser goes out →
Doesn't work →
Burner cleaning →

Radiator soldering →
Doesn't turn on →
Replacing the membrane →
Installation and installation →
Circuit and device →
Speaker breakdowns →
We repair water heaters →

general characteristics

Electrolux geysers are distinguished by their stylish design, reliability and functionality. They can simultaneously provide 2-3 water intake points, therefore they are used in city apartments, private houses and even in public institutions where a lot of hot water is required.

The features of Electrolux speakers make it possible to successfully use them even with low gas pressure or water pressure.

Note! Convenient knobs for adjusting parameters, a digital display and several protection systems make their operation simple and safe.

All Electrolux instantaneous gas water heaters are characterized by features that distinguish them from other similar devices.

Their design is simple. All models are made in classic design and white color.
The safety of the devices is ensured by a three-level protection system. There must be an automatic shutdown function in the absence of draft, a thermostat and a safety valve.
Electrolux gas water heaters are available with different ignition options. The classic method using a match or lighter is almost never used in new models. The gas is ignited by a spark using batteries or a turbine. In this case, the unit turns on immediately after opening the water tap; sometimes you first need to press the piezo ignition button.
The control of such a column can be mechanical, when the increase or decrease in water temperature is regulated by toggle switches. But electronic control is more convenient - in models with modulated power, the temperature is set automatically.
The power of such speakers can be different - from 17 to 31 kW.

Advantages and disadvantages of Electrolux geysers

Each gas equipment has its pros and cons.

Let's look at the main advantages of speakers from the Swedish concern:

safety is ensured by a multi-level protection system, including gas control and a shutdown sensor when the device overheats;
savings due to rational fuel consumption;
long service life due to quality materials;
availability of models with a display showing water temperature;
ergonomic design;
Ease of use.

If we consider the disadvantages, we can only highlight the high price.

This includes costs not only for the purchase of the device, but also for installation by a certified technician and further maintenance of the equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages

Instantaneous water heaters from this company are very popular. Everyone can choose a model depending on their requirements and budget. Different Electrolux speakers differ in price, power, and type of ignition. But they all have several advantages that attract users:

reliability;
safety;
attractive appearance;
compactness;
durability;
ease of operation;
ease of control;
availability of additional functions.

Additional Information! An important advantage of these water heaters is the presence of a draft sensor. If it is absent or if reverse draft occurs, the unit turns off. This prevents gas from entering the room.

The disadvantages of some models of these water heating devices include the impossibility of using them with poor water pressure - the column simply will not light up. It is also difficult to ignite the unit in the absence of traction. But these are the disadvantages of any geysers. If we talk about Electrolux, we can note that they are assembled in China, which may reduce their quality.

Features of work

Thanks to the simple design of Electrolux speakers, they are easy to use. Most of them turn on automatically after the hot water tap opens. The gas unit is activated and the burner lights up. It heats the water pipes, so hot water appears in the tap within 15 seconds. After the tap closes, the burner goes out.

The design of the speakers is thought out to the smallest detail; there is nothing superfluous in it. This design ensures reliable operation.

The control unit includes knobs for regulating heating power, gas supply and water pressure. Some models have a digital display that displays temperature and other necessary indicators.
Gas regulating elements allow you to normalize the gas supply, protect against an unexpected decrease in draft and regulate pressure. Many models have a modulating burner that automatically maintains the water temperature by adjusting the flame height.
Thanks to the copper heat exchanger with thick walls, water is quickly heated without heat loss.
The chimney has a draft sensor, so when it becomes clogged, the column automatically turns off.

The best Electrolux geysers

Thanks to optimal technical characteristics, gas equipment from Electrolux is in great demand in Russia and abroad. We have compiled a rating of the 7 best models for 2021, based on consumer reviews.

Electrolux GWH 14 NanoPlus 2.0

Water heating device powered by natural gas . It features optimal water productivity - 14 liters per minute.

This indicator is associated with the high thermal conductivity of the heat exchanger, providing device power of up to 28 kW.

The advantage of the product is its operability at an inlet pressure of the water supply system from 0.20 atmospheres.

The model is equipped with mechanical controls. The water is heated up to 60 degrees, after which the temperature is maintained stably.

The column is safe to use thanks to reliable sensors that prevent damage due to overheating.

Characteristics:

productivity - 14 l/min;
power - 28 kW;
maximum water temperature - +60 °C;
pressure - 0.20 to 8 atm.;
dimensions - 400x650x196 mm;
weight - 11.21 kg.

pros

turns on quickly;
enough power for 2 points;
turns off when overheated;
convenient switches.

Minuses

makes a clicking sound when turned on;
makes noise.

Electrolux GWH 12 NanoPlus 2.0

A flow-type heater that has earned the trust of customers . This is due to the budget cost and optimal technical parameters.

The model features automatic ignition, intuitive controls and water capacity of up to 12 liters per minute.

The flame is ignited by batteries, but it is not recommended to use alkaline batteries.

Thermal power reaches 24 kW, which ensures almost instantaneous heating of water up to 80 degrees Celsius.

Operation is safe thanks to leakage protection sensors and automatic shutdown in case of overheating.

Characteristics:

productivity - 12 l/min;
power - 24 kW;
maximum water temperature - +80 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 8 atm;
dimensions - 350x610x183 mm;
weight - 8.22 kg.

pros

quiet operation;
heats water quickly;
economical fuel consumption;
temperature indicator.

Minuses

batteries run out quickly;
no frost protection.

Electrolux GWH 10 High Performance Eco

The third line of our rating was taken by a water heater in an ergonomic silver-colored case made of steel alloy.

The model has excellent parameters and operates stably, consuming fuel economically.

The spent combustion product is discharged directly through the chimney, so the device is only suitable for placement in private homes.

The water heats up to +60 °C. Moreover, a pressure in the water supply of 0.15 atmospheres is sufficient for stable operation of the column .

The water capacity is 10 l/min, which is associated with the thermal power of the device up to 20 kW. There is a display on the body that shows the current water temperature.

Characteristics:

productivity - 10 l/min;
power - 20 kW;
maximum water temperature - +60 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 7.90 atm;
dimensions - 330x550x190 mm;
weight - 8.08 kg.

pros

water temperature indicator;
high-quality burner;
compactness;
heats water at low pressure.

Minuses

click when turned on;
noise when abruptly closing the mixer.

Electrolux GWH 11 PRO Inverter

Flow-type equipment with waste product discharge through a standard chimney.

Only natural gas can be used to operate the dispenser.

Among the advantages are high water productivity - up to 11 liters per minute and rapid heating of water up to 80 degrees.

A power of 22 kW is enough to supply water to 2 points . Among the distinctive features of the product are the presence of protective sensors for increased safety during operation and the operability of the device at a pressure of 0.15 atm.

For user convenience, a display with a thermometer is installed on the front side of the case.

Characteristics:

productivity - 11 l/min;
power - 22 kW;
maximum water temperature - +80 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 7.89 atm.;
dimensions - 330x550x190 mm;
weight - 8.55 kg.

pros

instant on;
minimalistic design;
compactness;
stable temperature maintenance.

Minuses

long turn on;
expensive maintenance.

Electrolux GWH 10 NanoPlus 2.0

Equipment with economical consumption of natural fuel . It is equipped with electric ignition, so after opening the tap, hot water immediately flows. Management is simplified as much as possible.

To regulate power and heating temperature, knobs are installed on the front side.

The advantage is the presence of an ionization flame control system.

The water capacity of the equipment is sufficient to simultaneously provide hot water supply to two points (10 l per minute).

The column structure contains a copper heat exchanger that is resistant to heat and oxidation.

Hot water is supplied even if the inlet pressure is 0.15 bar. For the convenience of users, an informative display is placed.

Characteristics:

productivity - 10 l/min;
power - 20 kW;
maximum water temperature - +80 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 7.89 atm.;
dimensions - 330x550x190 mm;
weight - 8.08 kg.

pros

fast heating of water;
works on 2 points;
compactness and light weight;
informative display.

Minuses

expensive maintenance;
crackling noise when turned on.

Electrolux GWH 10 High Performance 2.0

A device with an open combustion chamber for spent fuel . Due to its high water productivity and power of 20 kV, it is suitable for installation in residential buildings, commercial and industrial premises.

It operates silently and is equipped with comprehensive protection, including gas control and a sensor that turns off the device if it overheats..

The product has an optimal water productivity of 10 l/min. After turning on the column, the water temperature is maintained automatically.

The model is equipped with an electronic control type.

On the front side of the case there is an LCD display displaying the charge level and heating temperature.

A distinctive feature of the device is its stable operation at low pressure.

Characteristics:

productivity - 10 l/min;
power - 20 kW;
maximum water temperature - +80 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 8 atm;
dimensions - 330x550x180 mm;
weight - 8.7 kg.

pros

informative display;
quality materials;
minimal noise;
work at minimum pressure.

Minuses

difficulties with settings;
Batteries run out quickly.

Electrolux GWH 11 NanoPro 2.0

The water heater is equipped with electronic ignition and heats the water to 70 degrees in a matter of seconds.

Has a water capacity of 11 liters per minute. This volume is enough for a family of 2-3 people. It is also possible to place equipment in commercial premises.

The device is equipped with a flame modulator . After heating, the temperature is maintained automatically with an accuracy of one degree.

The column turns on automatically.

Temperature and power are regulated without jumps using nozzles.

The performance of the model is determined by a power of up to 22 kW. Operational safety is facilitated by the presence of protective sensors.

Characteristics:

productivity - 11 l/min;
power - 22 kW;
maximum water temperature - +70 °C;
pressure - from 0.15 to 7.89 atm.;
dimensions - 330x550x190 mm;
weight - 8.7 kg.

pros

steel body;
fast water heating;
minimal noise;
auto ignition

Minuses

high price;
no display.

Popular models

produces several different models of gas water heaters. All of them are characterized by reliability and ease of operation. But there are slight differences.

Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nano Plus

This speaker has simple mechanical controls and low power. But it is capable of providing hot water to a city apartment and has sufficient performance so that 2 water supply points can be connected to it. The Nano Plus column has compact dimensions and an affordable price. Oxygen Free technology prevents the release of harmful substances during operation.

Selection rules

An Electrolux water heater is the best way to provide hot water to a private home, cottage or city apartment. You just need to choose the right model. Their main characteristics are the same, the difference may be insignificant, but it is still important to know what to pay attention to.

First of all, you need to consider power. The performance of the device depends on this, as well as how many water intake points it can provide. Dispensers with low power up to 19 kW are designed for 1 tap, medium-power - 20-24 kW - for 2 points. If there are more of them, for example, in a gym or a large private house, you need to choose a device with a power of 25-30 kW.
The column control method can be manual or automatic. If you do it manually, you will have to use toggle switches to regulate the water temperature; if the pressure drops, it will become cold. In models with a power modulator, you can set a certain temperature, and the device will maintain it regardless of the water pressure.

You need to pay attention to how the column lights up. Ignition using a match is no longer popular, although these models are cheaper. In modern devices, gas is ignited using batteries or a turbine. Moreover, there are two options: the column turns on after pressing a button with your hand or immediately after opening the water tap.
It is important that the selected water heater has protection systems. There must be a pressure relief valve, a draft sensor and a thermostat to prevent overheating.
The appearance of most models is almost the same. But you can find more compact speakers, with a minimum number of elements or, conversely, with the ability to choose the design of the front panel.

User manual

The instantaneous gas water heater is mounted on the wall close to the gas pipes and chimney. There must be a distance of at least 50 cm from the stove and refrigerator. Installation and connection must be carried out by specialists; it is prohibited to do it yourself. A mark indicating its connection is placed in the device passport.

Note! The geyser can only be installed in a room of at least 12 m2 with a standard ceiling height. It should have ventilation and a window with a window.

After installation, be sure to read the operating instructions. It indicates the main characteristics of the device and rules of use. The most important thing is to understand how to light an Electrolux gas water heater. In most modern models, the burner ignites automatically after opening the hot water tap. Using toggle switches, the intensity of the flame is adjusted. This helps change the temperature of the water.

In models with a modulating burner, the heating level is adjusted automatically. You need to set a certain temperature, and the column will maintain it itself, changing the intensity of the flame if necessary.

Important! In any model, it is prohibited to adjust the water temperature with a tap by adding cold water.

In order for the column to operate smoothly and not create dangerous situations, it must be properly cared for:

clean the body of dust, remove moisture in a timely manner;
You can wipe the column only after turning it off, when it has cooled down;
nothing should be placed on top of the device, nor should it be covered with a cloth;
Do not disassemble or try to troubleshoot problems yourself.

Design and basic operating principle of Electrolux gas heaters

The design of an Electrolux gas heater involves many irreplaceable elements. When the toggle switches are activated, the incoming water is heated through the water pipes. At the outlet of the column, we get hot water directly from the tap; we just need to turn the mixer to the red mark.

We propose to study in detail the diagram of the Electrolux geyser with a description of each working module involved in heating water.

Control block . This is a small mechanism that contains the levers and toggle switches necessary to operate the device. The main function of this module is to monitor the temperature range and heater performance.
Device for regulating water and gas supply. Using the claimed system, ideal control of the safety of a gas water heater is ensured. The system will trigger an automatic shutdown when gas pressure is low or there is no water supply.
Modulating burner - regulates the height of the flame, and when the pressure drops, it is able to maintain the water temperature.
Copper heat exchanger . Helps transfer heat from heated gas to water in the tubes without loss. Characterized by increased wall thickness.
Power unit . A device that is present in every electrical appliance. Responsible for supplying energy.

Electrolux brand geysers operate on the basis of such a simple scheme. However, you should not equate all devices to one template, since each model can be slightly modernized.

Don't know which ignition to buy the device with? Our editors recommend the technique with electric piezo. This option will help out at a time when there are no matches at hand, and you desperately need to turn on the heater.

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Sometimes problems occur in the operation of Electrolux geysers. But serious malfunctions rarely occur; in many cases they can be fixed on your own. Models with electronic control show an error code, this allows you to figure out in time what is wrong and avoid serious damage. It is worth paying attention to the following indications on the display:

E0 means that the device has overheated and the temperature sensor has tripped; professional repair may be required;
E1 indicates the need to replace batteries;
E2 is an ionization sensor; it can work if the flame is not burning.

There are two most common faults that are easy to fix. They do not indicate a breakdown of the column, but arise due to its improper operation. Most often, users notice that the column has stopped lighting up. This can happen in the absence of traction. It needs to be checked and, if necessary, the chimney and ventilation should be cleaned. The device will also not light up if the water is not open. Models with electric ignition may stop turning on if the batteries are low.

It also happens that the water does not heat up well. To eliminate this malfunction, you need to adjust the gas supply or water pressure. This can be done on the device itself or simply reduce the water supply to the tap.

If you smell gas in a room where the heater is running, you cannot fix this problem yourself. The column must be turned off and a specialist must be called.