Why does the geyser slam loudly when you turn on the water?

Why does the gas water heater igniter go out:

• The wick of the gas water heater is clogged with dust;
• Air flows from the outside (flame separation); • Lack of draft in the chimney; • Traction control sensors are faulty; • The thermocouple is worn out or burnt out; • Poor contact between the sensor and the control unit; • Ionization sensor outside the flame range. The most common reason why the pilot light goes out is a faulty thermocouple. The thermocouple is an element of a safety device designed to shut off the gas flow in case of unstable operation of the gas column. When the pilot goes out, the thermocouple detects the lack of heat due to the lack of fire and turns off the gas. However, if the thermocouple is burnt and its tip has become loose from prolonged exposure to fire, then it becomes the reason why the igniter goes out.

However, if the thermocouple is burnt and its tip has become loose from prolonged exposure to fire, then it becomes the reason why the igniter goes out. Another problem is that the gas injector holes on the igniter are small in diameter and can become clogged with debris and dust, thus preventing the gas at the igniter from burning properly and resulting in insufficient heating of the thermocouple.

Why does a geyser turn off spontaneously and how to deal with it.

Outgoing air currents from outside can blow out the pilot burner. Downdrafts typically occur if the appliance is not properly ventilated. When repairing a gas water heater, be careful not to confuse this phenomenon with a lack of traction.

Geysers have electromagnetic valves that belong to the gas control system. If the ventilation system is faulty and carbon monoxide enters the room, the solenoid valve will shut off the gas supply and the igniter will go out.

Black soot deposited around the igniter area and on the heat exchanger itself is another problem why the igniter goes out. This soot appears from incomplete combustion of gas. The accumulation of soot on the heat exchanger can cause major problems with air ventilation and cause the pilot to go out during operation.

Signs that the igniter is not working properly

Pay attention to the color of the igniter flame. It shows how well and correctly the gas burns

A wick that effectively burns natural gas burns with a blue flame. The blue flame color should be at least 90% with small red flecks and a slightly yellow tip. An orange or predominantly yellow color indicates problems with the pilot burner, which can lead to an emergency stop of the column.

Why does the igniter smoke? If the ratio of air and fuel becomes less than standard values, the color of the flame turns yellow and the igniter begins to smoke and burn sluggishly. This leads to insufficient heating of the thermocouple and the igniter goes out.

The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Installation, installation, operation of all types of gas boilers.

Answer

Posts: 9 • Page 1 of 1

The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Guest » March 06, 2013, 10:20 am
What happened, the gas water heater stopped turning on, the gas simply does not light up.
Water flows, there is pressure in the system, the gas is open - it doesn’t light up and that’s it. The column is completely automatic, you can do it as the master explained - you don’t need anything, it works by itself, lights up and turns off. After my wife washed herself, the speaker stopped turning on. Guest
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Sergey N » March 06, 2013, 10:22
In 90% of cases, the problem turns out to be dead batteries. If your speaker is fully automatic, then it must have batteries. The manufacturer usually puts Duracell. Since they are more powerful than regular ones and with them the column lights up without problems. If the user replaces them with cheap alternatives, hoping to win some money, these batteries do not draw the required power and the column does not light up. Especially when it comes to salt batteries.

The most economical gas heaters + reviews - https://www.optcentre.ru/topic/3185-otzy ... #entry4007

Sergey N
Messages: 2684 Registered: March 11, 2012, 23:18 From: Kazan
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Bibikin Ivan » March 06, 2013, 10:25
Yes, it’s definitely a matter of batteries, if all other parameters have not changed. Buy high-quality durussels or 2 pcs barrel energizers and everything will work as it should. If you're short on money, you can do this - check for damage, connect power from the power supply or 3V battery and try to start the speaker. If it starts up, feel free to change the batteries, the problem is definitely in them!

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Bibikin Ivan
Messages: 1662 Registered: May 16, 2012, 14:10 From: Moscow
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Igor_01 » March 06, 2013, 10:30
But the flow of water has not decreased over time, have you noticed anything? Another problem occurs when the heat exchanger becomes clogged with scale. The water pressure weakens and the low flow protection is triggered - the gas simply does not open. This also occurs quite often, especially with domestic speaker models. Often there is simply no coating from the inside. It can be treated by disassembling and flushing the system with acid.

Climate equipment supply network - https://www.optcentre.ru/topic/1842-nuzh ... ht/?p=2605 - https://www.optcentre.ru/

Igor_01
Posts: 2010 Registered: Apr 13, 2012, 12:23 PM
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

by Rikota » 07 May 2013, 14:07

The guest wrote: the gas water heater stopped turning on, the gas simply does not light up. Water flows, there is pressure in the system, the gas is open - it doesn’t light up and that’s it. The column is completely automatic, you can do it as the master explained - you don’t need anything, it works by itself, lights up and turns off. After my wife washed herself, the speaker stopped turning on.

I think that “the wife washed herself” has nothing to do with it; there is no cause-and-effect relationship between the wife’s bathing and the malfunction of the column. I also don’t agree that “90% is due to dead batteries.” The reason for “Gas is open - does not light up” could also be the flow sensor; the automation simply “does not see” that there is water flow through the column. Or there could be a problem with the gas valve. You can guess for a long time. In any case, start by replacing the batteries (if you have ignition from them), if it doesn’t help, call a specially trained person. Of course, you will have to pay for diagnostics. But he will establish the exact cause of the problems. Rikota Posts: 994 Joined: Mar 11, 2013 12:41 pm
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Anatoly64 » 03 Jan 2014, 20:14
It helped twice, replacing the electromagnet with a new one, but I can’t say why this happens.
Anatoly64
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Drugomysh » April 17, 2021, 2:54 pm
There is a solution when the solenoid valve does not open. Apparently there is a weak current on the coil, and even the gas pressure “holds” the valve in the closed state, so the valve needs help (if the stem moves freely with the valve removed, it should work). You need to attach a not very strong magnet to the back wall of the valve, so that it does not open the valve on its own (in my case, it was a curtain magnet). The valve stem will be in a magnetized state, and a minimum of effort will be required to move it; it will work even with dead batteries. You can experiment with the power of the magnet.

Drugomysh
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

Igor » Nov 18, 2021, 12:08 pm
Thanks for the tip about installing the magnet to the valve IT WORKED!!
Igor
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The solenoid valve of the geyser does not work.

roodme » 09 Feb 2021, 16:17
But it didn’t help me, I tried, but it turned out to be more difficult.
I didn’t bother doing any more amateur activities, otherwise I’d end up with more problems, so I called for gas boiler service. Even they had to rack their brains, but I can imagine how much I would have suffered on my own without outside help. well, it’s good that we figured it out and fixed everything, now I live in peace roodme Messages: 32 Registered: Oct 16, 2013, 10:12 AM
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Answer

Posts: 9 • Page 1 of 1

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Why does a geyser go out and how to deal with it yourself?

If the speaker does not work well, turns off quickly and turns on slowly, then you may be faced with one of the problems described above. In this case, you need to find out the reason, and if it is not very serious, try to eliminate it yourself. Let's talk in more detail about several of the most common problems that you can deal with without the help of a specialist.

The most common problems due to which the wick in a gas water heater does not burn:

1. If there is no draft in the chimney, there may be two reasons: a clogged chimney and poor ventilation. In the first case, you will need to clean the chimney. You can do this yourself or use the services of a specialist. However, there is another equally common problem. The fact is that nowadays most apartments are equipped with sealed plastic windows, which limit the ventilation of the home. In this case, it is necessary to install a special supply valve that will ensure proper air circulation; if this is not done, the column will only work when the windows are opened. If you have a supply valve, but suffer from the column constantly turning off, then check the draft by holding a lit match to the inspection window. If the flame does not deflect, then repeat the experiment with the chimney. If there is draft in the chimney, then the heat exchanger in the columns is cleaned, if not, then the chimney itself is cleaned.
2. When the burner itself goes out, most likely the reason is a strong gust of wind. To prevent this from happening, do not open windows in windy weather. To resume operation of the device, you need to turn it off and on again.
3. The column may also go out due to overheating. Such a nuisance can occur from mixing hot water with cold water or due to the formation of scale in heat exchangers. To prevent this from happening, you need to regulate the temperature by changing the water pressure, or using the regulator on the column. You also need to constantly clean the heat exchanger from scale using special products.

These are the three most common reasons why both Chinese and branded speakers may not work. With some simple manipulations, you can deal with this problem yourself.

Typical geyser breakdowns and their elimination

A geyser is a fairly complex piece of equipment that, with proper care and compliance with basic operating rules, can serve its owners for quite a long time. However, any equipment breaks down sooner or later, and geysers are no exception. In accordance with the rules of safe operation, malfunctions of gas equipment should be eliminated exclusively by professional gas workers, however, there are a number of typical reasons (most often related to the fact that the gas water heater worked normally and caught fire, but suddenly stopped lighting) that can be identified and corrected independently. Knowing certain subtleties, it is quite possible to repair a gas water heater without the involvement of third-party specialists.

Diagram of a gas water heater without a chimney.

The gas water heater does not light up: possible reasons

The most common reason that a gas water heater, which previously worked normally, now does not light up, can be the usual lack of draft in the ventilation well.

It is possible that some foreign object has entered your chimney. In addition, it can simply become clogged with soot that has accumulated during operation of the unit. In such situations, a special protective system is activated, which is installed inside the unit, and the gas supply is automatically shut off in the device itself.

Check the draft in the chimney. This is quite simple to do: you need to light a match and bring it to the well. If the flame deviates towards the well, then everything is fine, there are no problems with draft. It is enough just to eliminate the cause, after which the gas water heater will light up again and work normally, that is, either clean the well with your own hands, or call the appropriate technician for this.

Diagram of the gas water heater.

Another common reason why a gas water heater won't light up could be that the batteries are low. However, this is only true for equipment with an automatic ignition system. It is noteworthy that, contrary to the assurances of manufacturing companies, which for the most part claim that the service life of replaceable batteries is 1 year, they have to be changed much more often. In order for a gas water heater to light up, in this case it is necessary, of course, to change the batteries.

If none of the above cases apply to yours and you are wondering why the column is not working as it should, check the water pressure. Very often the geyser does not light up due to insufficient water pressure. This can be checked quite simply: open the cold water tap and watch the pressure. If it is small, then the reason may not be in the column itself, but in the entire water supply system or some separate section of it.

If the cold water pressure is stronger than the pressure in the hot tap, then the reason may lie directly in the water unit of the gas water heater, for example, if the membrane is deformed or the filters are clogged. Quite often, coarse filters additionally included in the system are the cause.

To fix this problem, you first need to call the utility service to find out why there is no normal water pressure. After this, it is necessary to rinse the cleaning filters or replace them in the mixer. You can submit a request to the utility service to flush your water pipes. The column must be cleaned of soot and other combustion products. It may be necessary to replace the membrane of the water unit of the unit.

Quite often it happens that the gas water heater lights up, but does not work, and immediately goes out. In this situation, it is necessary to adjust the supply of cold and hot water. Remember not to try to dilute hot water with cold water, as this will cause the flame to go out quickly. Among other things, such actions violate the rules for operating a gas water heater.

How to flush a gas water heater?

Table of capacities of a chimneyless gas water heater.

Sometimes, in order to understand why the gas water heater no longer lights up, you need to disassemble it, and, if the reason for the malfunction of the equipment is accumulated scale, wash it. Prepare the tools needed for the job:

1. Pipe wrench.
2. Adjustable wrench.
3. Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers.
4. Set of spare paronite gaskets.
5. Rubber hose (usually ½ inch) with a metal clamp.
6. Descaling agent.
7. Basin.

First, you need to remove the fittings (handles, etc.) from the gas water heater, and then remove the casing. Then you need to decide on the water supply pipes. Be careful at this stage so as not to accidentally touch the gas. Next, it is most often advised to remove the heat exchanger and wash it outside the column. However, you can do it differently.

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After the casing is removed from the gas water heater, it is necessary to shut off the water supply at the inlet and open any of the hot water taps, preferably the one installed closest to the column. Next, you need to unscrew the supply tube from the water heater heat exchanger and move it slightly to the side. The heat exchanger is made of copper, and the tube will allow you to do this without any extra effort. As soon as the nut is unscrewed from the heat exchanger, water will begin to flow out of it - the tap is open. You don’t need to drain very much water, about 1 liter. You will find more accurate values ​​in the instructions for your unit.

Further actions are as follows: a hose is put on the inlet of the heat exchanger, raised higher than the column, a funnel is inserted into the hose, and the prepared descaling solution is gradually poured into it in a thin stream. Pour the solution gradually, as otherwise a reaction may begin that will push the solution back. The solution contains hydrochloric acid, which can cause burns if handled carelessly. You especially need to protect your eyes.

The descaling solution must be left in the heat exchanger for about 2 hours (the exact time is indicated in the instructions for the product). If the gas has not been turned off, and it was not said that this needs to be done, you can carefully try to heat the solution on a burning igniter. As a result, the reaction will go faster and less time will be needed for cleaning.

Water consumption table for a chimneyless geyser.

You should place some kind of basin or bucket under the tap, after which you can open the water supply to the gas water heater, just do it slowly. See what comes out of the hose. If a lot of sludge comes out and the pressure increases after flushing, then everything went fine. If not, you will have to repeat washing the column again. However, if you use modern high-quality products, you most likely will not have to do this. If you have not found a suitable remedy, you can prepare its analogue yourself, for example, by mixing 100 g of citric acid and 500 ml of water.

The catch in this case is that the gas water heater contains not only a heat exchanger, but also a number of other parts. The heat exchanger itself is made of copper, and, by and large, nothing will happen to it, but the so-called. The gearbox is usually made of aluminum and can be damaged. Therefore, if you fail to find a cleaning agent specifically designed for washing and use a homemade one instead, it is better to remove the heat exchanger and wash it separately.

Of course, if you completely disassemble the heat exchanger of a gas water heater, you will have to do a lot of extra work, but this way you will be sure that you will not damage it. You can wash the flow part of a gas column that does not ignite due to blockage using other means, but you need to be careful during any experiments.

Why won't the main burner light? It also happens that the main burner of the column does not ignite, although the pilot burner is working normally. This can be caused by several factors. It is necessary to consider these causes in order of likelihood of their occurrence.

Diagram of a column burner without a chimney.

Incorrectly executed water supply. If the main burner does not ignite during the first start after installing a gas water heater, the reason for this is most likely due to incorrect connection of the pipes. To eliminate this defect, it is necessary to correctly connect the water pipes.

Damage or complete failure of the membrane. This defect can be eliminated by simply replacing the rubber membrane.

Clogging of the filter in the hydraulic group (water fittings) or clogging of the mixer screens. The problem is solved by cleaning the mixer screens or filters of the hydraulic group.

Inlet water pressure is not high enough. To eliminate this defect, it is necessary to increase the inlet pressure. You can try adjusting the water heater by setting it with the pressure regulator to minimum. After this, the column should work normally.

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The water flow is less than the minimum allowable. To solve the problem, you need to increase the water flow.

The gas pressure in the system is less than the minimum. Solving the problem will require increasing the gas pressure. Few people know that flexible gas supply hoses significantly reduce gas pressure on the device. So, it is better not to install flexible gas hoses longer than 3 m.

The geyser goes out after a few minutes of operation

Gas water heater connection diagram.

A fairly common defect is when the geyser turns off a few minutes after it is turned on. It is characteristic that, as a rule, the ignition and main burners turn off just a few minutes after startup. So why does the gas water heater go out? The only option is an emergency operation of the flue gas sensor, which, in fact, opens the thermocouple. Another option, but extremely unlikely, is that the sensor itself breaks down, but if its resistance is infinity, then everything is fine with the sensor.

If the gas heater goes out, you need to check the chimney. The emergency operation of the previously mentioned flue gas sensor indicates that gases are removed very poorly or not removed at all. And this is fraught with carbon monoxide poisoning. The damage is quite serious. The first thing you need to do is check the chimney. Moreover, it is better if specialists do this. However, until a specialist from the relevant organization arrives, you can check on your own whether one of your neighbors has installed a satellite dish on the chimney, because This equipment may interfere with the normal operation of the chimney. The installation of satellite dishes on chimneys is prohibited.

The flue gas sensor can also be triggered if a high-power hood is installed in the same room as the gas water heater, which forces the flue gases to be removed in a manner not intended, i.e. through the chimney, but directly into the room. It is strictly prohibited to install geysers and hoods in the same room.

The geyser goes out after releasing the ignition button during switching on

The principle of operation of a gas water heater.

If the gas heater goes out (the pilot flame goes out), then the reason, first of all, may be that you did not hold the ignition button long enough. The ignition button must be held for about 20 seconds.

The column may also go out due to a breakdown of the exhaust gas sensor. To check the functionality of the flue gas sensor, you need to disconnect the wire terminals of this sensor and ring it. The resistance of a normally operating sensor should be equal to infinity. If this is not the case, the sensor should be replaced.

The pilot burner may also go out due to a broken thermocouple. To determine whether the thermocouple is faulty, disconnect the sensor terminals and measure the thermocouple voltage with the igniter pressed. The voltage should not exceed 10 mV.

The pilot burner flame may also go out due to a breakdown of the solenoid valve, the work of which is best left to a qualified specialist.

Why doesn't the pilot burner flame light up?

Water pressure diagram.

If it is not possible to ignite the flame of the pilot burner when the column turns off without starting, there may be many reasons for this. The following will list the possible causes of such a breakdown in order of increasing likelihood of their occurrence.

The cause of such a defect may be a closed gas valve. To fix the defect, you just need to open it.

The next reason is that the gas fittings of the column and the gas pipeline are air-filled. A characteristic sign of this malfunction is a whistle from the pilot burner nozzle. To eliminate the defect, unscrew the nut securing the pilot gas tube to the fitting. After this, press the ignition button on the gas valve, then bleed the air until the characteristic smell of gas appears. After supplying gas, the tube must be tightened.

Another possible cause is flame separation. A sign of this defect is a characteristic whistle from the burner nozzle. In this case, you need to try to adjust the gas pressure on the burner using the screw. In addition, the cause of flame separation may be the installation of an incorrect nozzle that is not designed for this type of gas. The problem can be solved by replacing the injector.

And another possible reason is the entry of dirt or a foreign object into the gas supply path from the fittings to the pilot burner. A sign of this defect may be the absence of a whistle. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to clean the nozzle or gas burner. If cleaning is impossible, the defect can be eliminated by replacing the gas fittings.

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Lost Spark: Causes and Possible Solutions Loss of spark is one of the most common causes of gas water heater failure. If a spark does not appear when you press the button, the causes of this malfunction may lie in the lack of contact between the current-carrying wire and the piezoelectric element. If contact is present, then the fault must be looked for directly in the piezo ignition button. You can verify that this button is working properly by bringing the opposite end of the current-carrying wire closer to the speaker body. If after a click a spark appears on the body, the piezo ignition button works normally.

If a spark is present, but not at the igniter, then the cause of this defect may be a malfunction of the current-carrying wire. If necessary, the wire should be changed. Such a malfunction can also be caused by damage to the ignition electrode.

Other common malfunctions A malfunction such as lack of ignition is often accompanied or is a consequence/cause of other malfunctions that you also need to be aware of.

For example, pops and micro-explosions that accompany the switching on of the equipment can occur due to insufficient draft in the ventilation duct due to a clogged nozzle or other elements of the water heater, due to the discharge of the ignition batteries of the equipment, or due to too strong an influx of gas. To eliminate this malfunction, you need to clean the chimney, for which you should call the utility service and call a chimney sweep, or replace the batteries. In all other cases, it is better to contact specialists to solve problems.

Remember also that when you turn on the gas water heater, you should not hear the characteristic smell of gas. If there is one, you must immediately turn off the gas valve and ventilate the room very thoroughly, after which you must call the gas service. Under no circumstances should you try to fix such a breakdown yourself.

When the gas water heater turns on, a characteristic sound must be heard. So, if the unit simply does not want to ignite, listen and try to understand whether gas is flowing. If there is no characteristic sound, we can conclude that gas is not flowing. This defect can be resolved by calling the gas utility or utility service. You need to ask if any repair work is currently being carried out on your site. If no work is carried out, you must call a gas technician.

And the last common malfunction may be that the equipment lights up, but does not heat the water or heats it very poorly. There may be several reasons for this. First of all, the situation may develop this way due to the low power of the equipment, to clarify which you should refer to the passport of the unit installed in your home, study its technical characteristics, etc.

In addition, the water may not heat up well enough due to the usual blockage of the water heater, a sign of which is a change in the color of the flame and the appearance of soot under the column during operation.

The water will not heat up well even if the gas supply pressure is low (insufficient).

To solve this problem, you need to try adjusting the hot water tap. If this does not make any difference, you will need to call a technician, call the gas service, or try to clean the column yourself. Cleaning instructions have been provided above.

This is the entire list of possible typical geyser failures that you can fix yourself. However, if you are not completely confident in your own knowledge regarding the design of this unit, or if you do not have the appropriate tools to repair the geyser yourself, it is better to address this issue to professional, experienced and qualified craftsmen.

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Causes

It is worth considering that breakdowns can be of a very different nature. For example:

• the flame does not ignite (clicks, there is a spark, but it does not work or there is no reaction to switching on at all);
• goes out immediately or after a short time (both with automatic and manual ignition);
• the fire goes out when you try to turn on the water, increase the pressure or weaken it;
• the flame ignites, the water comes out lukewarm, and then the column goes out;
• the speaker pops, crackles, mini-explosions appear when turned on;
• piezo ignition does not work;
• the piece works constantly, but when ignited the flame goes out;
• the dispenser does not light up and there is a smell of gas;
• When the tap is opened, the GSV rod does not move.

Column malfunctions can be divided into breakdowns caused by external factors and those of a purely internal nature. The former are not related to parts inside the unit itself and depend on additional parts or external influences (for example, adding temperature).

External factors

External breakdowns are as follows.

• The most common situation is the lack of draft in the chimney of the column. If it is not cleaned, it will become clogged with dust and dirt, and combustion products will not find an outlet and will extinguish the burner. Then, when the security system is activated, the gas supply will be cut off.
• A foreign object could accidentally end up in the chimney.
• The unit could simply have run out of battery or batteries. This type of malfunction only exists if there is an ignition, which operates automatically using batteries.

• If the device does not work after the first installation or due to repair work on the plumbing system, then there is a high probability that the hot water supply line was simply connected in the wrong place.
• Reduced water pressure. It is necessary to evaluate the water pressure (it will be weakened, the water will flow in a thin stream). The ignition will stop working with low pressure, so the reason is no longer in the column, but in the water pipes. Although, it is likely that the filter itself, installed in front of the column, is clogged with something.
• A faulty faucet that adds too much cold water, causing the water in the tap itself to heat up too much and extinguish it.
• Electronics. Modern speakers contain a large number of control modules and sensors that control the operation of the entire unit. Their failures can lead to the gas stopping igniting.

Internal breakdowns

Internal factors are like this.

• Incorrectly configured water heater. Due to the change of seasons, the water temperature also changes, so the column needs to be adjusted, which is often forgotten to do.
• The membrane on the water unit has failed. If the membrane is many years old, it could have lost its elasticity, cracked, deformed, or become covered with lime deposits.
• Filters or heat exchanger clogged with soot and scale.
• The pilot or main burner is clogged with dirt.
• Problems with the gas outlet sensor.
• Pops or small explosions when trying to turn on the equipment can occur due to insufficient draft in the ventilation or blockages of various parts of the water heater.

Reasons for the formation of frost on the cylinder

Let's try to figure out why it happens that the gas in a cylinder located outside freezes when the air temperature drops. So, first you need to understand that cooling of particles occurs with intensive release of gas from the cylinder. Since the gas inside the container is pumped under pressure, it is concentrated in a liquid state. As a result, partial freezing of the liquid gas occurs during its release.

The first reason is low air temperature

Based on the practice of using cylinders, the optimal temperature at which the equipment will operate normally is approximately 10 degrees, and when this mark decreases, problems begin with the supply of gas to the system.

If your equipment is located in a heated room, then you should not pay attention to these indicators. You also don’t have to worry about your gas cylinder freezing and breaking down if you leave it in a room without heating in the winter. Winter temperatures are too low to completely freeze fuel.

Reason two: high butane content

Now let’s figure out whether the gas inside the cylinder can freeze and how to prevent this. So, to ensure proper operation of gas appliances, it is necessary to maintain the correct ratio of propane and butane. The correct proportions will help achieve maximum fuel consumption and correct operation of devices at negative ambient temperatures.

Fuel proportions in summer

As mentioned earlier, the freezing point of butane differs from the freezing point of propane. Through practical research, optimal proportions for equipment operation in winter and summer were determined.

For the warm season, fuel is mixed in the following proportions:

• Propane – 40%;
• Butane 60%.

This ratio is considered the most effective for consumption. It is worth noting that this option has a lower cost than fuel with a “winter” proportion.

Winter fuel proportions

To use gas cylinders in winter, the proportions will be different, namely:

• Propane – 60%;
• Butane – 40%.

In some cases, the amount of propane can be as high as 80 percent. But, given that propane costs more than butane, the final fuel price will also be higher.

Reason three - increased gas consumption

But still, why does the container become covered with frost only in the place where the gas is in a liquid state? Low ambient temperature is not the only cause of freezing. As you know, a gas stove, fireplace or other equipment that runs from a gas cylinder functions by converting gas from a liquid state to a vapor form.

There are two options for gas conversion, namely:

• fuel heating;
• natural evaporation.

In this case, all particles with powerful kinetic energy are rapidly directed to the upper part of the container and are separated from particles in a liquid state with a lower kinetic potential.

The gas, which is in a liquid state inside the cylinder, is always at the bottom, and the vapor part tends upward. This is how fuel is released and supplied to a gas stove or other equipment.

Due to such conditions, liquid fuel begins to lose temperature. It follows from this that as gas consumption increases, the temperature of its liquid state decreases. Simply put, the more fuel the equipment consumes, the faster the gas cylinder will freeze.

As the particles cool, the ability to independently evaporate the liquefied gas decreases. It follows that the colder the particles are, the slower the gas will evaporate. In this case, the equipment begins to work intermittently or stops functioning altogether.

Reasons for attenuation

If the wick goes out, this indicates that the gas supply has stopped, since in the event of any breakdown that causes the fire to disappear, the dispenser safety system shuts off the fuel supply. Therefore, there is no need to worry about possible leakage.

Lights up and soon goes out

When igniting, the igniter button must be held for at least 10 seconds. Otherwise, the fire may go out. In addition, the column lights up and goes out after several minutes of combustion due to an excess of exhaust gases. The removal of gases is controlled by a sensor, which, if there is a dangerous accumulation of gases, signals a breakdown and stops the operation of the entire system. The reasons for this phenomenon may be the following.

1. There is no natural ventilation or, on the contrary, it is very powerful. Even a strong wind can blow out the wick if the chimney opening is not protected. It is necessary to ensure natural ventilation in the room, otherwise the draft in the chimney will disappear.
2. Soot, soot and debris accumulate in the chimney, preventing the free passage of air.
3. The heat exchanger is clogged. This problem is accompanied by a change in flame color from blue to yellow.

The burner does not turn on

If the wiring between the ionization sensor and the control unit is damaged, or the sensor itself fails, then the following symptoms are present:

• the column goes out 3-5 seconds after switching on;
• the second time the operating time increases;
• the next switching on takes place in normal mode;
• After some time the breakdown returns.

If the burner turns off, this can also be caused by a sharp drop in water or gas pressure, which is not always caused by external factors, but may result from clogged filters or damage to the membrane.

Goes out when mixed

It is not recommended to turn on cold and hot water at the same time, since when the flows combine, the pressure in the column drops.

Goes off during operation

The following factors can cause shutdown during operation:

• insufficient pressure in gas and water supply systems;
• lack of contact between the magnetic valve and thermocouple;
• temperature jump over 100 °C;
• enabling automatic shutdown mode.

Most reasons do not require repair of the unit.

Fading after turning on the shower

If the problem appears after turning on the shower, then the cause will be low water pressure, which is caused by a blockage in the faucet, in the hose or directly in the shower head, as well as due to a clogged filter at the inlet to the faucet.

Causes of noise

Due to the very principle of operation of the equipment, you can hear a slight noise, it crackles. Sounds may be amplified if the room is not well ventilated. There's nothing wrong with that.

Does the appliance make sounds when turning on hot water or heating? When drawing water, you may feel vibration because the flow passes through the pipes, turns, and passes through obstacles. To reduce the noise level, you can adjust the water handle. While scrolling it, listen: as soon as the sound vibrations decrease, leave it in this position.

There is a popping sound when starting up

Do you start the equipment and hear a pop? Does the device jerk and vibrate? This means there are problems with the gas supply. When starting, fuel accumulates in the working part: when the amount of air or gas corresponds to the norm, no popping noises should be heard.

Excessive gas results in a volumetric explosion when the fuel hits the wall at the bend. This can happen if there is excess pressure in the system.

Such problems can even lead to the failure of the chimney. Therefore, contact a service center or try to fix them yourself.

• Turn off the gas and water supplies.
• Remove the equipment casing: pull the handle towards you, unscrew the two screws.
• Inspect the fuel supply system and burner. Clean the parts from dirt. How to clean a gas water heater, read the previous article.
• Unscrew the two burner tongue screws.
• Inspect the condition of the nozzle. If it is clogged, clean it.

The speaker hummed and made noise

The main reason is poor traction . To test it, light a match and hold it near the hole. If the flame deviates to the side, as if from an air flow, the draft is fine. If not, the chimney channel is clogged with soot and carbon deposits, which are produced during the combustion process. Need to clean it up.

Poor ventilation also contributes to increased noise. This often happens after installing plastic windows. The bags are so sealed that natural ventilation becomes impossible.

What to do if the device cracks? This is possible when the burner nozzle (nozzle) is clogged . You need to disassemble them as described above and clean them.

If your column is turned on by electric ignition, the reasons may be:

• Such devices operate on batteries. When they are discharged, the fuel ignites poorly or does not ignite at all. Clicking sounds may be heard. In this case, replace the batteries.
• The flow control sensor is faulty. Most often, its contacts oxidize under the influence of moisture. You can try to clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the sensor.
• The spark does not ignite. The candle that is responsible for the fire has moved, so the process does not complete. Reinstall the spark plug and resume the process.
• The ignition retarder does not work. Remove the part and shake. In this case, you should hear the noise of the ball rolling in the housing. If you don't hear anything, the ball is stuck or dislodged. Put it back in place with wire.

Is the new equipment rattling? Perhaps the reason is not the boiler, but an installation error. To find out, inspect all connections to ensure they are connected correctly. It could also be:

• Depressurization of the air duct . Air enters not only through the main hole, but also through the hole. Therefore the noise increases.
• Incorrect burner placement . Perhaps it has shifted and cannot cope with burning the entire volume of gas. You need to install it in place.

Gas boiler whistles

If the product whistles and squeaks, you need to find out where the sound is coming from. What to do:

• Turn off the gas supply.
• Open the mixer in the “hot” position.
• Did the whistling intensify? This means that the problems lie in the water path. The main reason is scale deposits on the heat exchanger parts or pipes, or blockage. It is necessary to clean all the elements in order to restore the performance of the equipment and eliminate the cause of the whistling. Using a reverse flow of water can clear clogged pipes.

• If the whistling sound disappears when you open the tap, the problem is in the gas path. There is probably a defect in the valve that controls the flame intensity. Whistling may appear when the operating power is increased. Try turning the control until the sound goes away. Does not help? Then the problem is that the tract is clogged. The device needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

If you notice similar problems in your equipment, you can try to solve the problems yourself. But it is better to contact a service center, especially with a valid warranty card. Employees will repair or remove faulty equipment.

The water doesn't heat up well

Reason 1. Insufficient speaker power

Perhaps you often need to simultaneously supply water to the kitchen and bathroom, but the water heater does not have time to warm up such a volume.

1. Select a unit with greater power.
2. Turn on hot water in different rooms alternately.

Reason 2. The column is clogged

A blockage may occur in the burner or heat exchanger due to excess soot. This will be signaled by the red-white color of the flame at normal water pressure.

The solution is to clean the column, preferably with the help of a specialist.

Reason 3. The column water assembly membrane is damaged

If at first the water flows at an acceptable temperature, but gradually it becomes colder, the flame of the column is blue, and the light is weak, then the problem is in the integrity of the membrane. Cold water wedges into the hot flow, and the outlet temperature drops.

The solution is to replace the membrane.

Reason 4. Water inlet/outlet hoses are installed incorrectly

If you have just turned on a new water heater and there is still no hot water, errors were probably made during installation.

The solution is to switch the hoses.

Work principles

A thermocouple is two welded conductors. One is made of alumel and chromel. The thermocouple has one main function - supplying power to the solenoid valve.

Such a part rarely fails. At the exit from the housing there is a bottleneck equipped with a central conductor. The latter is equipped with high-quality insulation, but even it sometimes gets worn out, causing the speakers to go out.

Another problem is contact failure at the thermocouple welding points. In this case, it is impossible to restore the original characteristics. After all, the current generator passes through the same place. It is recommended to purchase a replacement for the old part.

A solenoid valve is also known as a copper wire coil. Inside this structure there are metal cylinders called a solenoid. There is a mechanical connection between this part and the shut-off valve for gas to enter the burner.

When the thermocouple heats up, a current is generated. It creates a magnetic field when passing through the coil. It is due to this that the solenoid is pulled inward. The solenoid also has a mechanical connection with the valve. Gas flows to the igniter when the valve is moved.

The thermocouple cools down if the gas does not ignite. Because of this, current production stops. The gas supply stops altogether as the solenoid itself returns to its original position.

This is how you can ensure safe operation of devices under various conditions. This is also due to the fact that problems can arise due to a simple blow of wind if the systems are not equipped with protective mechanisms.

A bimetallic plate is how a thermal fuse can be described. The plate begins to sag when the temperature where the part is installed reaches 90 degrees.

The solenoid power supply circuit is then broken. The thermal fuse is connected to the general circuit using special terminals.

It often breaks due to the fact that the design is complex and has a lot of features.

Reasons for extinction after ignition

If the gas water heater goes out or functions unstably, it is necessary to establish the cause of the problem. For these purposes, you need to find out what causes malfunctions in the functioning of the device. Often the device does not turn on due to:

• turning on an indicator that detects a gas leak;
• difficulties with the chimney;
• valve failure;
• wick clogging;
• main burner attenuation;
• too much ventilation;
• thermocouple opening;
• breakdown of the automatic system.

Important! If the column smokes, turns off, or does not light up at all, you can try to solve the problem yourself. However, it is best to call a specialist in such a situation.

Flame ionization sensor failure

When the device turns on and starts to go out, the ionization indicator is 70% at fault. This component is regularly in contact with fire. The ions produced during combustion are attracted to the sensor and produce a current. When there are enough ions, the device will work. When there are not enough of them, the column turns off.

• the wick goes out after a few seconds after ignition;
• during restart, the column operates longer;
• You should turn on the device several times and it will function normally;
• difficulties arise only after a long break.

Important! It is necessary to inspect the wiring running from the part to the board. For these purposes, contacts are checked

Next, the fixing screws are unscrewed and the heating electrode is placed in the hottest place of the fire.

This technique extends the service life of the indicator by years. When everything is normal with the contacts and connections, the element needs to be replaced.

Wear of the water unit membrane

The effective operation of the device will depend on the serviceability of each component and mechanism. The membrane in such a heater is one of the most important components, but wear occurs over time.

A flexible membrane will be located at the base of the assembly and respond to changes in system pressure. When the mixer opens, the rubber element will bend under pressure and push out the stem. It will turn on the gas valve, causing fuel to flow into the burner.

Important! With intensive use of the device, the membrane will wear out. The rubber will stretch, become clogged and damaged.

As a result, fuel will not flow into the burner: the device does not start or lights up, but immediately goes out.

• Pressure force of gas and water. When the tap opens, you need to calculate how many liters will be consumed per minute. Within normal limits it will be 2-3 liters. The gas supply can be determined visually by looking at the fire.
• Fire position. In devices with wick ignition, the flame burns from the edge and has a height of at least 30-50 mm. If not, then check the jets for clogging. Once the cleaning is complete, you need to look at the fire again. When the situation has not changed, the problem is in the diaphragm.

• Ignition speakers should click when the button is pressed. This means the diaphragm is working. When there are no sounds, the part is probably broken.
• In a number of models, a rod that controls the functioning of the control unit helps to identify a breakdown. The protective cover is removed and the water opens. When the rod is immobilized, the diaphragm needs to be replaced.

When a breakdown is found, you need to choose the right replacement part.

The wick is clogged with dust

In products with an igniter, such an element often becomes clogged. The fire will become weak and a yellowish tint will appear. However, a change in the color of the fire also indicates a lack of air in the gas-air mixture.

The result is that the column either does not ignite the burner at all, or will perform its functions when a large volume of fuel arrives. In the latter situation, a certain click is felt. To clean the element, you will need 2 screwdrivers and an adjustable wrench.

• The case is removed - the adjustment handles are pulled out, the bolts in the corners from the bottom are unscrewed, the cover is lifted and removed.
• The traction sensor tube and the one that draws in fuel are unscrewed.
• The screws are removed and the structure is disassembled.
• The nozzle is cleaned, the tee is blown out, and assembled.

Clogging occurs in the draft indicator, which is why the igniter begins to smoke. When dust and dirt are removed, the igniter lights up with a stable blue flame.

Important! When the column is cleaned, the device is somewhat noisy. The sound will be produced by air being sucked through the cracks in the wick guide housing

It is possible to get rid of the noise by tightening the wick screws a little.

Why is gas not flowing into the gas water heater? Why does the gas water heater not light up?

Nowadays, many residents use gas water heaters in their homes, especially residents of private houses who use such gas water heaters very often.

Of course, geysers, like any equipment, have the ability to break down, and one of the most popular such breakdowns is when the geyser does not ignite.

Oasis geysers are very popular - these speakers are quite large and of high quality, but they, like other speakers, tend to break.

Geyser Oasis does not light up

What, in this case, could be the cause of such a malfunction, how to fix this malfunction, is it possible to fix it yourself and, if so, how.

The reasons why the gas water heater does not light up are:

1) there is no draft in the ventilation channel.

This can happen if any foreign object gets into the chimney pipe. In order to fix this breakdown, you must first clean all ventilation channels. To do this, you should take some long objects - for example, hooks or pipes - and carefully thoroughly clean all the pipes of the system.

2) Discharge of batteries. This can also very often lead to the gas heater not igniting.

But this does not apply to all types of speakers, but only to those that are powered by different nutrients and have automatic ignition. As a rule, batteries last about a year, but, as in any other matter, there are exceptions. To remove faults, you must first check the key that turns the speaker on and off, and also buy new batteries and replace them with old ones;

3) There is no normal water pressure. To understand whether this is so, you need to open the tap in which there is cold water and look at the water pressure; if the pressure is small, then the malfunction is precisely because of this.

Troubleshooting:

— Find out from the relevant services these reasons for the low water pressure; - completely rinse the filter that purifies the water or simply completely replace this filter; — Completely clean the column from combustion substances; — replace the membrane on the water unit of the column. In addition, there are a number of malfunctions.

Geyser Oasis do-it-yourself repair

Main column problems:

— Although the gas water heater turns on, it does so with a popping noise. There are several possible reasons for this behavior of the column - clogged nozzle or other column items, low batteries, insufficient traction.

In order to fix this problem, you will need to do one of the following actions - call the utility service and call a person who cleans the pipes; change batteries;

— When the gas water heater turns on, it starts to smell like gas. You need to remember that under no circumstances, when the column is turned on, can it smell of gas. If this happens, then you need to immediately turn off the column and ventilate the room well so as not to be poisoned by fumes.

In order to eliminate this malfunction, you must immediately call the gas service employees. — There is no gas supply. When the column is turned on, there should be a specific gas sound that comes out. If there is no sound, it means that the gas is simply not flowing.

- This may be due to the fact that some kind of repair work is being carried out on the area where you live. If there is no such work, then in this case you need to call the gas service workers.

And you can also watch a video of the water-gas unit of Chinese geysers_AT

Today we will look at the repair of the Vektor (Vector) geyser. Below I will present the disassembly procedure with photos, step by step, as I do it.

1. Remove the adjustment knobs from the column. There are three of them here. One knob for adjusting the water flow, a second knob for adjusting the gas supply to the burner, a third knob for turning on the mode of full or partial gas supply to the burner (WINTER/SUMMER mode). We unscrew the screws securing the front panel of the speaker from the bottom and top, disconnect the two connectors of the wires going to the display and remove the front cover.

2. Unscrew the bolts securing the strip with the ignition electrodes and the ionization electrode from the column burner.
• 3. Find the bolts that secure the water-gas unit to the column body (4 pcs.) and unscrew them. The bolts on the gas unit side can be unscrewed without any problems. On the water block side, the Chinese column is designed in such a way that the bolts are unscrewed from the wall. If you do this on a workbench, then no problem. If the speaker is hanging on the wall, then you will not be able to do this. Either you will have to remove it, or try to unscrew the two bolts that secure the bracket to the water block, which is not always possible, because Usually the water block is wet from condensation and the bolts rust.

  4. Unscrew the right heat exchanger tube from the water block (2 bolts on the coupling flange). We unscrew the two screws on the brackets that secure the burner, disconnect the ground wire screwed to the gas block (yellow wire). We disconnect all connectors: microswitch connector, gas valve connector, wires going to the battery compartment.

  5. Remove the entire water-gas block from the column along with the burner. It’s also a good idea to unscrew the plug to drain the water from the water block. It is long and will interfere with both disassembly and assembly of the Vektor geyser (Vector).

  6. Now our task is to remove the heat exchanger from the column body. To do this, unscrew the three screws that secure the heat exchanger from below to the rear panel of the column housing, disconnect the draft sensor from the column cap and the temperature sensor from the heat exchanger, unscrew the 2 screws that secure the column cap to the housing (at the very top). All we have to do is disconnect the hot water pipe of the heat exchanger from the body, which is attached from below with two self-tapping screws. The heat exchanger and cap can be removed from the housing. Next, unscrew the 4 screws connecting the column cap and the heat exchanger. The column itself is disassembled into units. Only the ignition unit remains in the housing.

2016-11-07 Yulia Chizhikova

Below are the reasons why Oasis in case of no spark.

Before proceeding, it is necessary to shut off water and gas at the entrance to the device for safe repair of the equipment.

1. The batteries are dead or leaking, or they are missing from the device. If they leak, you need to replace them with new ones; if you find traces of their leakage in the niche where they are located, you will need to thoroughly clean the contacts and insert new elements. If after replacing them the column does not light up, it means that the cause has not been found. This problem applies to devices with an automatic ignition method.
2. Poor draft in the chimney or its complete absence.
   The reason may be a clogged air duct, that is, a foreign body, or a large accumulation of soot. Checking the draft force is very simple, you just need to light a match, you can hold a candle to the hole, if the flame sways, then the draft is good. If it is not there, you will need to contact a special service that provides chimney cleaning services. The problem can occur on any device.
3. The device toggle switch is in the extreme left position. That is, the incoming water pressure into the device is insufficient to operate the water mechanism. The solution to this problem is extremely simple - switch the regulator to the working position.
4. Insufficient water pressure in the water main. For a solution, contact your city water utility. The solution to the problem is to install a pump that will increase the water pressure at the inlet to the column.
5. Clogged filter installed on the pipe at the connection to the column. The reason why this happens is poor water quality and old pipelines. To remove the blockage, you will need to clean or replace the filter. To remove it, you need to unscrew the nut, take out the filter and clean it under running water. If this does not help, you will need to purchase a new one, its cost is quite low.
6. Another reason why the device does not turn on may be clogging or wear of the water unit membrane. To remove it, you will need to remove the casing of the device, find the water unit, unscrew it and remove the membrane. It has a round shape and is made of high quality rubber. Inspect it visually, it should not be stretched or torn; if defects are found, replace it with a new one. A membrane made of silicone is more durable and of higher quality; it is better to install it. Installing it in its original place requires extreme care, so as not to damage it; the screws that are located opposite each other are tightened first.
7. A clogged heat exchanger can also cause a breakdown.
   It can be eliminated by cleaning it; for this you can use a special device that is connected at the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger. You need to pour a special liquid into it, which will circulate in it, thereby cleaning it from unwanted contamination.

   If you do not have the opportunity to use it, you can do it using a method that has been proven over the years, after first disconnecting the heat exchanger from the device. Prepare a cleaning solution from citric acid 100 grams per 600 ml of heated water.

   Immerse the heat exchanger in a container filled one-third with water, pour the prepared solution into the heat exchanger and boil over low heat for 30 minutes. Then rinse it under strong pressure, and if the heat exchanger is cleaned well, put it back in place. If scale remains, repeat again. You can also use purchased ready-made descaling products.

8. The seal in the Oasis column is leaking. Once you remove the speaker housing, you may notice some drops. Leaks most often occur through the oil seal rod. In order to check, you need to unscrew the water-gas unit using a regular screwdriver. Remove the membrane and use a 16mm wrench to unscrew the rod. Having taken it out, we replace the rubber seal with a new one, and also replace the oil seal.
9. The microswitch is broken. This can happen again due to a water leak. It cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced with a new one.
10. Poor rod mobility.
    It may be oxidized; to fix this problem, you will need to disconnect the microswitch from the device, release the rod; if you find that it has become sour, clean it and lubricate it.
11. The electrical part of the device has been damaged. There may be a break in the connection between the microswitch and the control unit or in the wiring of the microswitch. Find the break point, strip the wires and connect them.
12. Solenoid valve failure.
    It cannot be repaired and requires complete replacement.
13. Control unit malfunction. It needs to be replaced with a new one.

In the video below you can see some additional nuances on this issue:

Reasons why the wick goes out

The problem of a dying wick is especially relevant when this happens constantly and it is impossible to light it manually. Let's look at all the cases. First of all, you need to decide when the burner goes out, whether there are any extraneous sounds, smells, etc.

When you turn on the gas water heater

In the first case, the problem is most likely with the ionization sensor. It is responsible for maintaining the flame in the burner. You can understand that the problem really lies in the sensor by the following signs:

• Burning occurs only for a few seconds, usually no more than 5 seconds.
• With each subsequent launch the performance improves. It even works for some time. But then the problem arises again.

To solve this case, you need to check the wiring to the sensor; if everything is fine with it, you should replace the part itself. It would be more correct and safer to contact specialists or those who understand the operation of gas equipment.

In progress

The second case of wick fading occurs when it is operated for a short time. The main reasons may be:

Bad traction. Soot accumulated in the chimney, debris got in, and birds began to build nests. Determining the presence of chimney draft is very simple. You just need to bring a match or lighter to the window through which it goes out and turn on the boiler. If there is a deviation of the flame, then the reason for the fading of the wick is something else. If the fire does not flutter, there is no draft. The flue gas pipe must be checked. The heat exchanger needs to be cleaned. It may happen that it is covered with scale or soot. These problems lead to overheating of the heat exchanger and also prevent it from operating in stationary mode. No natural ventilation

Therefore, it is so important that the room in which the boiler is installed has a window or an opening window. There may be strong ventilation nearby to prevent the wick from burning. In this case, it should be turned off when the boiler is operating or reduced to minimum. Another interesting case could be a piezo ignition column

that is, using the ignition button. For it to work, you need to hold it for at least 10 seconds. That is, the issue may not be that the burner is broken, but rather its correct use.

If you don’t find yours in the above reasons for the wick fading, then you should contact the company. With whom you have a contract.

Reason 1 - Weak traction

Combustion products must be discharged through the chimney. When they are heated and there are no obstacles, this happens quickly. If carbon dioxide and steam have time to cool, they can fall back into the column and contaminate the mixture of gas and air.

Checking traction

To check the draft intensity, you need to bring a burning match or lighter to the chimney opening (some models also have special test holes for this). The flame should actively deflect towards the water heater. If it remains in place, this indicates weak traction.

The main reason for poor draft is a clogged chimney. Over time, soot accumulates in the chimney, which narrows the diameter of the pipes. Debris can also get into the chimney from above. If the clog is small, you can remove it manually. If the chimney is clogged much higher up the riser, you need to call utility services to clean it.

Also, if an active hood with a fan is installed in the kitchen, then the exhaust gas can be drawn into it instead of going up. It is necessary to turn off the propeller while the water heater is operating.

If metal-plastic windows are installed in the room and they are closed, then the lack of incoming air may interfere with draft. For safety reasons, you should use a gas water heater only with an open window (or with a plastic window open for ventilation).

Emergency shutdown of the gas water heater

Reason #1. The sensor is faulty.

The first sign that the sensor is worn out and needs to be replaced is a chaotic shutdown of the column. Bimetallic sensors are used to prevent overheating of the column and the penetration of carbon monoxide. It works by heating, or more precisely, when heated inside the sensor, two plates repel and disconnect the electrical circuit. When the sensor wears out, the plates can become separated at the slightest vibration, which leads to a break in the circuit and as a result the column turns off.

Reason #2. Poor water pressure or membrane wear.

The geyser may turn off due to poor or floating water pressure, a faulty mixer or shower head. If the column is sensitive to water pressure, it is advisable to contact the service department to inspect the membrane of the water part for cracks. We are such a service, so if you have problems when using a geyser and you cannot solve it yourself, call us and use our services - repair of geysers.

Reason 3 - Clogged nozzle

In semi-automatic models with piezo ignition, the main flame is ignited from the wick (the reasons why the wick of a Demrad geyser does not ignite are described here). If it is clogged or positioned incorrectly, the intensity of its combustion may not be sufficient for timely ignition.

It should be cleaned. To do this, remove the casing and clean the nozzle hole using a thin wire. You should also check that it is positioned correctly and, if necessary, move it closer to the burner. When the wick burns, its flame should extend beyond the edge of the burner.

Actions with Neva

Geysers from this company have various modifications. Each has its own weaknesses.

There are often cases when users find it difficult to turn off the Neva gas water heater with index 4511

The most common causes of this problem in this model are:

1. Problems with the water block.
2. Flow indicator (micro switch) failures.
3. Low battery voltage.

The arrangement of elements in Neva 4511 looks like this:

Here the operating principle of the water and gas units is identical. That is, when water opens, the membrane of the first component bends and puts pressure on the rod of the second. The EMC opens, gas flows to the main burner.

The batteries power the control mechanism, which is responsible for ignition and other processes in the device.

The microrelay is located under the water block in a free state. When the rod of the water mechanism moves, this relay closes, and current flows from the batteries to the control system.

To solve the problem there are the following methods:

1. Repairing or cleaning the water block. It is better to trust the work to experts.
2. Replacement of microrelay.
3. Installing more powerful batteries.

Main causes of malfunction

It is not always necessary to call the experts. There are a number of malfunctions in the gas water heater that the user can repair independently.

Lack of draft in the hood

As a rule, this is caused by a dirty chimney. During operation, combustion products enter it and settle in the form of soot on the walls. Therefore, the ventilation duct requires systematic (once a year) maintenance. Checking the presence of draft is simple: you need to bring a lit match to the hood.

If it functions adequately, the flame should move towards the exhaust path.

Often, a lack of normal draft occurs when the plastic windows in the room are tightly closed

- they obstruct air flow. During operation, the protective relay overheats, the security system is activated and the device turns off.

Insufficient pressure

The automatic system blocks the gas supply in case of insufficient water pressure. You can estimate the pressure by simply opening the water taps. If it is small or absent altogether, it means that an emergency shutdown in the gas water heater is not due to a breakdown of the device.

In the case of normal pressure in the tap, it is worth looking for reasons in the water heating system. As a rule, a decrease in pressure is a consequence of filter contamination.

or
membrane disruption
.

Coarse filter

To correct the sources of failure due to which the wick of the geyser goes out, the owner will have to:

• clean or change the filtration system;
• install a new membrane partition for the water unit;
• clean the pipeline.

Ignition and instantaneous extinction

This situation most often occurs due to improper operation of the device by users. When such a water heater is in working condition, it is strictly forbidden to open cold water to dilute hot water. This action is a most dangerous violation of the rules of its use. It can cause serious damage to the device. The temperature of the liquid is regulated solely by supplying gas.

Faulty ignition system

Depending on the models, there are three types of ignition: electric ignition (in modern versions), an igniter, which has a small constant flame, and a hydraulic turbine - from pressure.

The electric ignition runs on built-in batteries. According to manufacturers, they last for about a year. But as practice shows, the service life of such batteries is shorter. For example, in the Bosch gas water heater models W 10 KB or WR 10-2 B, there is an LED on the front panel that indicates the status of the batteries. The Neva Lux range of gas water heaters is also equipped with this type of ignition. If necessary, old batteries are replaced with new ones

.

If the cause of the problem is the wick, then it is best to seek help from qualified specialists. They will check the functions of the thermocouple and gas control system, clean and adjust the igniter. Often the problem when the pilot light of a gas water heater goes out is solved by completely cleaning the water heater

.

In the case of a hydraulic turbine type of ignition, for example, as in the Bosch WRD 13-2 G or WRD 10-2 G, a malfunction may occur due to a lack of water pressure

on which it is based.

Microexplosions during ignition

These unpleasant processes are only a consequence of low thrust, unsuitable batteries, contamination of the device itself, or a very large volume of gas supplied to the column. To fix the problem yourself, the owner can only clean the exhaust duct

or replace batteries. If the problem is not solved, then only gas service employees can understand why the dispenser goes out.

Dirty ventilation duct

Geyser Electrolux - Malfunctions and repairs

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• Operation and adjustments Electrolux GWH 275 SRN/RN, 285 ERN

I have an Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nanoplus gas water heater installed and connected. I'm happy with everything, I especially want to mention the battery ignition. But too much sensitivity to water pressure is very unpleasant. While researching this issue, I found that some people recommend adjusting the microswitch responsible for monitoring water pressure. Tell me, is it possible to do this, and what nuances need to be taken into account during this process? To implement your plan, you need to set the flow, using the right knob on the device, to the minimum value. In this case, differences will not greatly affect the process. The device is started not by pressure, but by flow rate, and the knob located on the right regulates this parameter. If poor starting occurs, you should measure the flow rate. To do this, you can take a two-liter bottle of mineral water and a stopwatch. If the flow rate is less than 2.5 l/min, you should replace the pipes. Most likely they are so badly rusted that they do not allow water to move normally. Also, if you have flexible hoses installed, you need to install something else, and their diameter must be at least 14 mm. If this does not help, then you can install an automatic pump, which will forcibly increase the speed of water flow. I'm interested in faucets with a thermostat installed on them. I was told that they should not be installed if the speaker is an open type (Electrolux 265 ERN Nano Plus). Although I don't understand why that is. Moreover, if there is a closed device with a temperature regulator, then a thermostat on the mixer is not needed at all. I'm right? It makes sense to install a thermostat only if you are very sensitive to temperature changes. Even in closed-type water heaters there are not significant differences due to transient processes (delta usually does not exceed 1-2 degrees). Therefore, mixers with a thermostat are usually installed on devices where it is necessary to reduce the temperature difference. It doesn’t matter at all what type they are. The only thing is that it is not recommended to install such a faucet on a mechanical one, as this can cause overheating, due to the fact that they are not regulated by anything other than mechanical handles, and then within very narrow limits. I use an Electrolux 350 geyser. When I open the tap to take a shower, the water comes out at different temperatures: sometimes cold, sometimes hot. It is very uncomfortable. It seems to me that the problem is its low performance, as well as the great distance of the shower (more than 3 m) from the unit. Is there any way to fix this? Perhaps it is possible to install some kind of expansion tank that will help stabilize the temperature of the supplied water? Or do I still need to install a boiler? Your problem is due to unstable network pressure. If you connected it to your water, and the unit is also connected to the pump directly, then it is not at all surprising that there is a problem. If you have a good supply of pressure, try installing a reducer at the inlet, and make adjustments to the minimum pressure in the network, and it should be at least 1 bar. If the pressure is not stable and drops below 1 bar, then you will have to install a model with a closed chamber and electronic temperature stabilization. It is also possible to install a boiler. If you connect a small electric boiler (about 30 liters in size) in series with the existing column, this will significantly improve the situation. In this case, the boiler thermostat will need to be adjusted to the same temperature as set on the column. This is necessary so that the electric heating of the boiler is not connected. The Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nanoplus gas water heater broke down. It worked for 5 years without problems, but recently it stopped heating the water. It produces barely heated water. If you take water from the closest place from the device (1 meter), it is 31 degrees, and at the most distant point (about 4 m away) it is 28 degrees. And this despite the fact that it is configured for the maximum gas supply and the slowest water supply. I checked the heat exchanger and it is clean. But just in case, I washed it again, both inside and outside. Nothing changed. I noticed that the water heater has a very weak flame, it even goes out sometimes. This didn't happen before. After installation, the device calmly supplied water at 45C with slow water flow, and with normal flow - 38 degrees. Moreover, the flame reached 2-3 cm in height. I checked that the modulation works. If you turn off the water supply, the flame size becomes smaller. The water pressure, both at the exit and at the entrance, remains almost unchanged. I called a service technician, he replaced the membrane and installed a new servo drive. He also disassembled and cleaned the burners and measured the pressure on them. But nothing helped. The flame is still very small and modulation occurs over a very narrow range. Previously, the flame in maximum mode was always almost up to the plates. At the same time, the stove operates without problems on the same gas, and its flame is sufficient. I recently changed the batteries. It seems to me that the problem is with some kind of sensor: either temperature or pressure. Perhaps they are providing incorrect information and the electronics are limiting the gas supply. How can I check this? What else could be broken with my water heater? To measure something, you need to understand what the minimum power is and what the maximum power is. And you didn’t indicate this. Therefore, there can be no talk about the norm. Most likely, the gas valve spring has weakened, but since you can't buy it separately, you will have to replace the entire gas valve. Problem with the geyser Electrolux 265 Nano Plus. There were problems turning on. After I turn the water supply to the tap to the maximum position, I have to wait more than 30 seconds for it to start working. It happens that startup occurs faster, but this is the case if you start turning both knobs on the device. Moreover, each time the handles remain in different positions. It's been such a terrible job for a week now and I don't know how to fix it. Tell me, please, what to do? There is a huge waste of water. The display does not react to this in any way. Moreover, if a spark appears, the unit starts the first time. You should disassemble the water block and make sure the membrane is intact, as well as check all other parts. For example, it could jam. Also check the microswitch. If you press it with your hand, there should be a spark. I bought and installed an Electrolux GWH 350 RN speaker. She was connected to gas. And immediately the problem arose that the water did not heat up. At the same time, everything seems to be working properly. But the water is no more than 20 degrees. Set different modes of water and gas supply. It did not help. How to fix this problem? What's the point of overpaying when you could buy Oasis Comfort or Vector. Moreover, they would have exactly the same components. My Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nano Plus gas water heater has stopped working correctly. When operating in summer mode, there was insufficient water supply at the outlet. Cold water entered at a rate of 17 liters per minute, and hot water supplied at 5 liters per minute. At the same time, there is a strong variation in water temperature, unstable pressure, and visually poor gas supply. After I turned it on at maximum power, the pressure increased. He himself became stronger, plus I had to set the temperature knob to the maximum value. This increased the water flow rate to 9 liters per minute. But there is still no stability. The delta is insignificant, but quite uncomfortable. At the same time, the gas supply is also not stable, and the water heater makes a lot of noise and sometimes works quietly. It happens that after 30 minutes of operation the device simply stops heating water and goes out. I disassembled the device and cleaned it. The shutdown problem is gone. I thought that the reason was the traction sensor, but it seems I was mistaken. What confuses me is not even the weak pressure, but the constantly different temperature. I don't like that if the gas supply pressure increases, there is a lot of noise. What else should I check, maybe clean? Could it be a frog or a heat exchanger? I don't understand why this happens and I don't see any logic. If I try to control the unit using the temperature controller, I can see that the pressure changes, but not much, within 1 liter per minute. And when the mixer is not fully opened, a whistle is heard. It stops only if the tap is opened to maximum. Could it really be the frog that is the problem? The whistle is very similar to the sound of a dripping kettle. You cannot solve this problem yourself. Contact a specialized service center. The Electrolux 265 Nano Plus geyser has been in operation for 9 years. 2 years ago it was necessary to replace the heat exchanger because the old one was leaking. And now I am interested in this question. Problems started six months ago. After I turn off the water supply, the device clicks on the ignition for 10 seconds or more. To solve the problem, I removed the bottom switch from the water assembly. There I saw that the rod was moving too slowly after turning off the water. And all the time while it is moving on the flags, the device is trying to light up. I decided that the problem was in the membrane and replaced it with a new one. However, I did not find any contamination inside. I removed minor deposits with soap, and when assembling the device, I lubricated all the parts with oil, and the rubber seals were cyatim-201. Now it turns out like this: if the device works for a short time, then there are no clicks when turning it off. And if it’s more than 30 minutes, then the ignition still works several times. That is, it began to work better, but the problem did not completely go away. I compared the old and new diaphragms and realized that they are no different. What then could be the problem of such incorrect operation of the gas water heater? Could there be a problem with the stem? To make it move better, I moved it with a screwdriver. Maybe it needed more development? Or are there problems with some seals? Maybe it makes sense to lubricate them? I also noticed that if the rod is removed, the wires are connected and the water is turned off, the ignition continues continuously. If you hold the flag with your hand, the spark disappears; if you release it, it starts working. I removed the switch, pressed it with my hand, and water flowed. The gas goes out. If you release the flag, ignition occurs and the gas burns. After everything has ignited, the ignition is turned off. If you have any questions, please contact the specialized service department. Malfunction of the Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nanoplus gas instantaneous water heater. After three months of operation, error E0 appeared. After studying the operating instructions, I saw that it means “water overheating”. Can I somehow fix this problem myself, or should I contact a specialist? I released the air and saw that the delay was about 3 seconds. This is fine? I checked the water pressure and saw that 10 liters of cold water flowed out in 50 seconds. And the same volume of hot water in 97 seconds. This suits me, but I don’t like the error that appears. Reduce the gas and increase the water flow with the right handle. If the thermometer shows that there is no overheating, then most likely you have a problem with the sensor. It needs to be closed. In theory, this is not a problem for a 30 meter pipe. You can also shut off the water inlet to the gas water heater, then it will go out faster. I have an Electrolux GWH 350 RN speaker. Lately I haven't been able to light it up. I changed the batteries and checked all connections. I can't even hear the sound of a spark. But when I removed the lid, I was able to light it with a match. The unit worked for a couple of seconds and went out again. Apparently there is some problem with the ignition. The display shows error E1. Most likely your thermocouple is broken.

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